need front end alignment after adjusting ride height?

[Dakota]

I have an appointment tomorrow to finally get my state inspection and front end alignment completed.   Now that I'm up to all of 30ish miles on the car from circling my neighborhood, I'm believing that I may have the front end a little too low.  Specifically, I get some brief contact on the front tires if I hit a bump with the wheels turned hard if I'm going more than about 5 mph.   Maybe that'll be better after it's aligned, but if not I was wondering if adjusting the ride height later means I'll have to get another alignment too. 

What say you Mopar gurus?

[Rich G.]

Yes that will change the camber

[Scooter]

Yes that will change the camber

^^^ What he said.... recommend you get a copy of the SKOSH alignment recommendations for today's radials.

[Burdar]

Set ride height first.  Then the alignment. 

Setting the ride height per the FSM will result in a very high front stance.(way too high IMO)  Set the front end where it looks good to you, then have it aligned. 

[anlauto]

Set ride height first.  Then the alignment. 

Setting the ride height per the FSM will result in a very high front stance.(way too high IMO)  Set the front end where it looks good to you, then have it aligned. 

Could not have said it any better myself 

[Chryco Psycho]

 the ride height is generally around 24-25 " to to top of the wheelwell in the front fenders
Make sure they use 06 Mustang specs Not 70 Challenger specs or it will handle very poorly
@Dakota

[headejm]

the ride height is generally around 24-25 " to to top of the wheelwell in the front fenders
Make sure they use 06 Mustang specs Not 70 Challenger specs or it will handle very poorly
@Dakota

[MoparLeo]

The method to measure the ride height shown with a tape measure is NOT the factory way to measure it. Look in your Factory Service Manual for proper procedure, if you want to know the factory way to do it. A proper alignment requires many things to be checked, measured and adjusted. tire size(must be same brand and model tire per axle), wheel size/offset, air pressure, rear suspension height side to side etc... An alignment is not just setting the toe with a tape measure.

[Jim AAR]

the ride height is generally around 24-25 " to to top of the wheelwell in the front fenders
Make sure they use 06 Mustang specs Not 70 Challenger specs or it will handle very poorly
@Dakota

Should a 70 Cuda with 215/60/15 radials on the front use the 06 Mustang alignment specs as well?

I just replaced my Left Lower Ball Joint, both Tie Rods (complete ends & shafts), Idler Arm and Sway Bar Links so i'm going to need an alignment.

[HP2]

Yes, but be aware that the shop won't be able to hit them on the nose because the old Mopar lacks the range of adjustment. Just take what they can get out of them as it will be loads better than the OEM specs. 

The reason for using '06 Mustang specs is because odds are very high any computerized shop with out a resident old guy will have these in their database. This makes it easier for the toe and go techs to be able to find a target to go after. Some shops may not have '70 Plymouth specs.  Additionally, the newer specs have more positive caster and some negative camber, which is desirable with both power steering and radials, but is especially beneficial for radials, regardless of size.

The only reason you would want to original alignment specs is if you are using manual steering or bias ply tires or both.

[Meyer]

Why 2006 mustang if the shop has a 70 in their system?

[dodj]

Why 2006 mustang if the shop has a 70 in their system?

Alignment for bias ply tires doesn't work well with radials. It will wander with the old numbers and be annoying to drive.

The method to measure the ride height shown with a tape measure is NOT the factory way to measure it. Look in your Factory Service Manual for proper procedure, if you want to know the factory way to do it. A proper alignment requires many things to be checked, measured and adjusted. tire size(must be same brand and model tire per axle), wheel size/offset, air pressure, rear suspension height side to side etc... An alignment is not just setting the toe with a tape measure.

Yes, but setting your car up like the factory did will end up with a crap handling car. 

[Jim AAR]

Yes, but be aware that the shop won't be able to hit them on the nose because the old Mopar lacks the range of adjustment. Just take what they can get out of them as it will be loads better than the OEM specs. 

The reason for using '06 Mustang specs is because odds are very high any computerized shop with out a resident old guy will have these in their database. This makes it easier for the toe and go techs to be able to find a target to go after. Some shops may not have '70 Plymouth specs.  Additionally, the newer specs have more positive caster and some negative camber, which is desirable with both power steering and radials, but is especially beneficial for radials, regardless of size.

The only reason you would want to original alignment specs is if you are using manual steering or bias ply tires or both.

Well I do have Manual Steering and i do have the Alignment Specs in an Old Chilton 70 Cuda Service Book

[HP2]

Some shops won't use an old Chilton book to set up their machines. Some will or will take custom specs. Some places are chains that only have 20 years of data in their system. It all depends on who you are using.

If you have manual steering with radial tires, you may want to set caster specs  to zero and add .5* of negative camber, but that all depends on how much "armstrong" steering you want to use.

Here is why; positive caster has several effects on steering- it  increases high speed stability, it increases return to center qualities, it increases steering efforts.  All of these are favorable attributes that many people enjoy in a new car compared to our classics. Old car specs tended to use the opposite of new specs and as a result, tended to get results the opposite of what we expect now, in other words, it will feel less stable at speed, it will be lazy returning to center and it will be easy to steer.

By virtue of construction , a radial tire is more tolerant to a wider range of angles than a bias ply will tolerate. In 1970, the vast majority of cars utilized bias ply tires so specifications were built to provide even tire wear and high mileage to the tires. s radials become the standard, alignment angles changed to utilize more aggressive angles that result in increased driver feel and performance.

For some, the nostalgia of having a period correct car is paramount to the experience of having a muscle car, and they will tolerate all the items that come from factory specifications. Some of us demand more from our driving experience and if we are using modern tires will want to use specifications that will better utilize the technology of that tire.  In my mind, its no different than if you decide to use electronic ignition or fuel injection, except alignment specs will improve the overall experience regardless of ignition or induction.

[MoparLeo]

Ride height is a SUSPENSION to ground measurement. Not the fender ( which may or may not be installed exactly the same from side to side, but the suspension components are what you are making your adjustments to. I would like to know where in the service manual anywhere that it says to make your measurement from the fender ?? Myth or someones' opinion, not in the FSM. I am surprised at you. In the 1970 Plymouth FSM Front Suspension section, page 2-4 right column explains exactly how to properly determine the front SUSPENSION height. The suspension section is a good read, especially for novice owners to get an understanding of what and how the Mopar torsion bar front suspension works and how to make adjustments.
  You didn't mention stiffer spring rates, stiffer shock valving, tighter tolerances on suspension components, strengthened rims due to increased stresses on the rims because of stiffer slip angles and increased contact patch traction when cornering among other things.
  Handling was not garbage and trash like some people like to say. Few people currently have done a lot of driving miles on both oe bias/belted tires from the period and current, properly sized radial tires to really compare. Most guys currently over tire the car so you really can't compare.
Assuming the front suspension components are in top, tight condition, Close to 0" toe in, 0 - 1/2° negative camber and as much caster as you need depending on whether most of your driving will be around town or mainly hi-speed highway driving. Naturally if you have altered any tire/wheel and/or suspension components in the interest of "performance" there are no hard specs. You get them close and I doubt that few currently think much about tire mileage as they usually go bad with age and not because they put a lot of miles on them.
These cars are now approx. 50 years old. Not many of you were driving back then and not many Mechanics are still around that worked on them either. Old mechanics to some people is 50 years old. They were not even born yet when these cars were first on the streets.