Performance drums/shoes?

[MarctheDrifter]

I decided I want to keep the rear drums in my Challenger, but I would still like to increase their performance. I found this setup http://www.musclecarbrakes.com/stage36572charger.html which looks ideal, but seem to be for b-bodies and not e-bodies. Apologies for the newbie question, but is there a reason I couldn't use the b-body drum brake kit on my e-body?

Also, any other recommendations for aftermarket drum brakes/shoes are welcome. I don't need an OEM look, I just want good performance.

[Chryco Psycho]

Same brake system for B or E body , finned drums will help but will never match the performance of Disc ,
So the best you can do is better cooling with fins & superior compounds for the shoes , drums will always trap more heat than disc tho .
Keep in mind most people would never feel the difference between disc & drum rear as the rear only do 30% of the braking & most people do not use the brakes hard or often enough to overheat them .
Autocross is a different story being on the brakes near max stopping power numerous times in under a minute by the end of the run brake fade could be significant !!

[Katfish]

Have you put many miles on the car?
99% of the time you need to reduce the performance of the rear brakes to eliminate lock up.
I have 11.75 rotors up front and the large 11" finned drums in the rear.
I love the way the drums look behind the rim, >13" diameter.
But I've had to reduce the WC to 7/8" AND put 2" linings where they call for 2.5" to reduce surface area and I still have too much rear bias.
I would suggest improving the front brakes before looking at the rears since they do 70-80% of the braking.

[cbuczesk]

I road race a Datsun 240Z with stock brakes. Discs up front and drums in the rear. I use Motul 660 brake fluid, brake bias adjuster, Carbotech pads/shoes, ducts to the front and drilled lots of holes in the rear backing plate. I brake hard 6 times in a minute and a half. That includes braking from 125 down to 25, 100+ down to 20 and 100+ to 60ish.

If you aren't going to race then a set of the Carbotech pads/shoes and high temp brake fluid (but 660 or even 600 degrees). From there you can decide if you need to drill the brake ducts, add a brake bias and/or brake ducts.

Chuck

[anlauto]

I used these Muscle car brake twice, customers liked them....they work better then factory drum, but obviously not as good a disc brakes would....Under normal driving I really doubt it makes a difference.

[HP2]

I'd agree with the other replies in here and add that perhaps you should not change anything until you have the chance to drive the car for a season in the applications you will use to see if you even have a problem with rear brake capability

I have added cooling ducts to drum brake systems, so it is possible and it does help to a small degree. I've simply added to 1" holes top and bottom on the backing plate and then fabbed a  duct from one hole to under the axle. This does force air into the drum when the car is moving and i used it primarily in rules limited oval track racing where rear discs were prohibited. It may not help much in a low speed/heavy brake use like autocross, but can give a bit more cooling to average driving.

[MarctheDrifter]

Thanks for the input everyone. Sounds like I'll just do a standard rebuild on the drums for now.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would try to buy the better brakes shoes from them if they will sell separate , they should it is a wearable part