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Proportioning valve cleanup

Started by Mrbill426, May 22, 2020, 08:51:21 PM

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Mrbill426

I like that concept, I am going to give it a try today  :bigthumb:  thanks!
I squirted Kroil in all the ports last night so maybe that will help loosing things from the inside too.  I want to salvage this valve as I have not seen repops of it.

:wrenching:

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on June 07, 2020, 08:33:34 AM
Quote from: Mrbill426 on June 07, 2020, 07:13:47 AM
@Burdar  Ok I soaked mine in Evaporust (that stuff works pretty darn good) and got the switch and thinner valve and spring out, but how did you get the larger valve on the end out; the one with the 7/8" nut?  Using a 1/2" drive 6-point with a breaker bar I can't get it to budge and the "nut" portion is so thin you can barely get a grip on it.   :huh:

:wrenching:


On something like that I would use a box end wrench, then use a C clamp to capture the wrench & the far end of the valve so the wrench can't slip off...  Mount the valve in a vise & smack the wrench with a hammer, the shock will help break it free...

7E-Bodies

Kroil is pure MAGIC! I probably have a dozen cans in my shop.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

Burdar

I didn't have any problem getting the fittings out, but the large valve assembly was rusted in and I broke it trying to get it out.  I didn't remove the brass valves because I didn't know how they came out.  If you get those out, please share the process on how they are removed.  I might take my valve back apart and completely disassemble it to make sure it's completely clean.

Maybe you just insert a small screw into the end of the brass valves to pull them out?


Mrbill426

Got the big nut (only) off but had to use a different method than the C-clamp because the nut has a pin protruding through the center of it that extended beyond the outside edge of my box wrench.
Forgot I had a hand impact and it did the job with the valve in a vise.  Again only the nut screwed out leaving the pin and valve still inside.  Another overnight of Kroil and maybe it and the valve at the opposite end will give up up too.   :dunno:
:wrenching:


Quote from: Burdar on June 07, 2020, 12:48:38 PM
I didn't have any problem getting the fittings out, but the large valve assembly was rusted in and I broke it trying to get it out.  I didn't remove the brass valves because I didn't know how they came out.  If you get those out, please share the process on how they are removed.  I might take my valve back apart and completely disassemble it to make sure it's completely clean.

Maybe you just insert a small screw into the end of the brass valves to pull them out?

Burdar

I soaked the valve assembly with penetrating oil to try and free it up.  Don't do that.  It swelled the seal and it ripped.  I'd soak the assembly in more EvapoRust now that the end fitting it off. :alan2cents:

Mrbill426

Rut-row... damage probably done by now then.  :( I was planning to get a kit for it anyway.  Back to the Evapo-rust bath it goes then.  :bigthumb:

:wrenching:

Quote from: Burdar on June 08, 2020, 06:46:44 AM
I soaked the valve assembly with penetrating oil to try and free it up.  Don't do that.  It swelled the seal and it ripped.  I'd soak the assembly in more EvapoRust now that the end fitting it off. :alan2cents:

Mrbill426

@Burdar
Yesterday after a couple days of more soaking in the Evapo-rust with all the plugs, the one long spring valving, and the switch removed I finally got the larger (spring) valve out of the one end by grabbing the center pin as low as I could reach with long needle nose pliers and using the end of the housing as a fulcrum to pry it up and out.  With it out I found a lot more sludgy gunk in there which I flushed repeatedly with spray brake cleaner through every hole in the casting;  watch out for blow-back!  There are two spool valves in there back to back and they both come out through the smaller end port. 

I tapped (firmly) the housing down on my vise anvil and the first (larger) spool dropped out... More gunk behind it so flushing.  The second (thinner) spool can then be pushed out from behind using a small rod or pin punch through the opposite (large) end port.  There is a small through hole in the casting.  In hind-sight maybe both valves can br pushed out together that way but I did not discover that option till after the first valve was out due to all the gunk. 



Quote from: Burdar on June 07, 2020, 12:48:38 PM
I didn't have any problem getting the fittings out, but the large valve assembly was rusted in and I broke it trying to get it out.  I didn't remove the brass valves because I didn't know how they came out.  If you get those out, please share the process on how they are removed.  I might take my valve back apart and completely disassemble it to make sure it's completely clean.

Maybe you just insert a small screw into the end of the brass valves to pull them out?


Burdar

Thanks.  I have the replacement valve that I used for parts.  I guess I can experiment with that one before tackling the original one.  Sounds like it would be a good idea to completely disassemble the original since you found a lot of hidden sludge in yours.   :bigthumb:

Mrbill426

@Burdar Sir I owe you a humble apology  :worship: ; I left out a important step that you even mentioned before.  I used a long sort of self tapping pan head metal screw twisted into the center of the fitting seat which is actually part of the first spool valve.  I pulled it the same way as the other valve with needle nose pliers.  It's what I get for typing my solution before I was awake this morning  :o  Sorry
Does that make sense?


Quote from: Burdar on June 11, 2020, 11:22:00 AM
Thanks.  I have the replacement valve that I used for parts.  I guess I can experiment with that one before tackling the original one.  Sounds like it would be a good idea to completely disassemble the original since you found a lot of hidden sludge in yours.   :bigthumb:

Burdar