School me on a suspension refresh

[kawahonda]

The suspension is one area of the vehicle that I haven't looked at or touched. I know that one of the pitman arms was completely shot when I bought the car and was replaced before I arrived (awesome seller who is a good friend of mine now).

I know very little about suspensions. Not having a lift makes suspension work a pain. My thought is to take it to a reputable shop (I already know of one) and have them do a once-over. Bringing them parts will be helpful so that they don't have to order stuff.

My suspension functions appropriately. All shocks work. Rear leafs have helpers and functions correctly. Torsion bars are set and car sits very level.

This thread is about what I should expect to do to the front suspension in order to refresh it. Because it currently functions (no noises, clings, or clanks) then I'm thinking parts of it just need to be refreshed and doesn't constitute a "total" rebuild.

I don't know what "parts" that almost always need to be replaced by default when it comes to suspensions. The grease areas (do not know what these are called) are split on both sides and need to be replaced. Are those where the ball joints are located? The shop told me to "go with moogs". What else are things that should be replaced on a 50 year old vehicle that typically fail?

Figured if I can order what I need and bring it all to him, they could probably make pretty quick work of things. Plus, would be good to get it aligned. Probably won't cost an arm or a leg either, but I could be wrong on that.

[Rich G.]

Usually the bushing get hard and cracked. Ball joints, tie rod ends last a long time if they are greased. The rubber boots can be replaced. Just remember if it ain't broke don't fix it!

[Bullitt-]

You can replace the seals on ball joints & tie rods if not needing replaced. My 50K mile pieces were sill good.
https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/boot-seal-package-70-74-e-body/
I used this loan a tool set to separate https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/pitman-arm-tool/oemtools-pitman-arm-and-ball-joint-tool-kit/900820_0_0
Upper & lower control arm bushings are the most labor but I managed with no special tools. Hardest part was getting the torsion bar to back out. Plenty of posts here about doing this.

[Chryco Psycho]

Is most of the front end original ?
If so Bushings are usually a problem drying out cracking , upper & lower control arms bushings , strut rod bushings sway bar bushings for both the bar & the end links . individual joints can be checked & changed as nessisary , inner & outer ball joints & tie rods & pitman arm .

[RUNCHARGER]

If you know of a reputable shop that knows old Mopars I would ask them to check it all out for you first and tell them you will source the parts when you know what it needs. It's unknown how old or how many miles are on anything so I would anticipate having to change all bushings but it's hard to say on balljoints and tie rod ends.
I used to figure on changing everything but truthfully with the quality of todays parts I would only change what needs it, you don't want to replace good quality 20 year old parts with new offshore stuff that won't last all that long. Buying brand name frontend parts these days is no guarantee they are good.

[FSHTAIL]

Do you want to improve on factory or keep it stock stuff?
Are you a cruiser or want to hit some corners in it?

[nsmall]

I'm happy with the polygraphite PST suspension rebuild kit I bought.  I just used my stock parts and had the rubber put on.

[kawahonda]

I'm actually pretty fine with what the A66 HD suspension offers. I basically cruise and play with the gas pedal with it--don't plan to hit any corners.

I think Runcharger made a good point--I should reach out to the shop and just have them do an inspection and for me to take notes.

They are not a "mopar" shop, but they are a general mechanic shop that I've used for many years for various stuff. People tend to bring their jeeps there a lot, so I guess you could say kinda mopar? The owner is a chevy guy.

The owner is a really awesome guy. He just replaced an ignition switch on our Honda Element, and sent me pictures over facebook to show what the problem was. I really love it when mechanics do this. He had it diagnosed in 15 minutes, whereas I spent an hour replacing an ignition relay and testing the clutch pedal switch (which passed)...so i kinda had to give up on it. He asked me if I wanted OEM, and I said "yes", so he drove to Honda and got an OEM switch. I also love it when they give you the OEM option.

He always seems to fix things for me within an hour or two at the cheapest prices. They many times will have a waiting list and are pretty booked. 

So naw, he's not a "suspension" shop, nor is he a "mopar" shop, but it's a pretty good shop and is very honest/reasonable. Maybe I should consider not going there? I would trust them easily over a chain suspension shop any day though.

Apparently he does do suspension work. He has no problems recommending me elsewhere if it's something he doesn't do (and his recommendations have been awesome, every one of them). But this one he was like "bring it by, let's talk."

[DeathProofCuda]

Not to hi-jack, but while we are on the subject of front suspension rebuilds, what is the difference between this boot seal package referenced by @Bullitt- above that costs $30

https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/boot-seal-package-70-74-e-body/

and this one that costs $131

https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/boot-seal-package-a-b-c-e-bodies/

$101 is not a valid answer

[Bullitt-]

Not to hi-jack, but while we are on the subject of front suspension rebuilds, what is the difference between this boot seal package referenced by @Bullitt- above that costs $30

https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/boot-seal-package-70-74-e-body/

and this one that costs $131

https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/boot-seal-package-a-b-c-e-bodies/

$101 is not a valid answer

  Perhaps we can get the man @MoparDave to chime in with the lowdown

[FSHTAIL]

If the shop will install your own parts, you really can't go wrong with Rockauto.com, just get the Moog stuff for tierods/balljoints that are greaseable.

They are an E-Bodies.org supporter and there's a 5% off code in the coupon discount vendors section..   
NOBODY can touch them on prices for the same thing in ANY kit.. 

Pitman arm, drag link and inner/outer tie rods, there's your steering department.. 

Upper/lower balljoints...   

Then freshen up those upper/lower control arm bushings and she's ready to rock..   

I highly recommend the grease-able pivot shafts, its such a nice setup... 
Much cheaper to piece it together yourself... 
I took the time to order the C body tierods just to beef things up a hair, 7/16 to 9/16 difference and it literally cost me the same..  direct bolt up..   

[MoparLeo]

Just to keep you honest, There is only one Pitman arm, it attaches the steering box to the centerlink. Its opposite is the idler arm. Pitman arms rarely wear out before the rest of the front end parts do. I will tell you the reason that most shops will not install customer supplied parts. One, If you supply the part and it is defective, they cannot get it replaced for you and if it was installed, you will have to pay the labor twice to get it replaced again. If the part fails, you will have to send the part back yourself for any warranty that it might have, but again, you will pay the labor again.What if it is the wrong part ? Who is responsible ?  When you have the garage supply the parts, they are also accepting responsibility for getting the correct parts, liability for replacement if it is a bad part and are normally able to submit a labor claim through their suppliers if it needs replacing instead of you footing the labor bill again. That is what the profit that you pay the shop is giving you. Protection and liability. They need to stay in business or where will you go in the future. Just like with the brakes, educate yourself and most of your questions will be answered. Don't just rely on the sites to do that for you.

[MoparDave]

well. the BEA 212 kit is more correct. the FDP kit is more of a generic.

[DeathProofCuda]

Got it.  Thanks for the response.

[anlauto]

Careful buying the more expensive boot kit, because the tie rod boots don't fit just any tie rod, they're designed to fit the factory type tie rod with a "clip-on" boot not a slide-over type boot like a MooG tie rod end.