Steering Column Shaft Repair Kit

[1 Wild R/T]

movement at the copper is normal....

[Mrbill426]

@anlauto and @Cuda Cody and anyone else who may know... 

I know this is a old thread but it fits into my dilemma. 

First, regarding the plastic collapse "pins" in the steering shafts, do they go all the way through the solid shaft?  I am trying to rebuild mine and it looks like it's collapsed.  I see 4 countersunk holes in the hollow shaft.  Looking through the holes I just see only the shiny solid shaft.  I figure if that is the case I can tap and extend the hollow shaft until I can see all the way through the 4 holes and then figure how to secure it.  If not, how long is the total correct length of the shaft? 

Second, I am down to removing the upper bearing and collar off the shaft but given several taps on the end of shaft while holding the collar it isn't budging.  I did remove the outside snap ring that retains the bearing.  Any tips so I don't break the collar?

Thanks!

I've heard of people trying to melt plastic back in the holes.....

[1 Wild R/T]

@anlauto and @Cuda Cody and anyone else who may know... 

I know this is a old thread but it fits into my dilemma. 

First, regarding the plastic collapse "pins" in the steering shafts, do they go all the way through the solid shaft?  I am trying to rebuild mine and it looks like it's collapsed.  I see 4 countersunk holes in the hollow shaft.  Looking through the holes I just see only the shiny solid shaft.  I figure if that is the case I can tap and extend the hollow shaft until I can see all the way through the 4 holes and then figure how to secure it.  If not, how long is the total correct length of the shaft? 

Second, I am down to removing the upper bearing and collar off the shaft but given several taps on the end of shaft while holding the collar it isn't budging.  I did remove the outside snap ring that retains the bearing.  Any tips so I don't break the collar?

Thanks!

I've heard of people trying to melt plastic back in the holes.....

Cudy Cody posted a picture in this thread that gives you the correct length....  (It was posted July 30, 2018, 10:21:17 AM )

[Mrbill426]

Thanks for that reference.  I assume those lengths are for all year E-bodies then.

@anlauto and @Cuda Cody and anyone else who may know... 

I know this is a old thread but it fits into my dilemma. 

First, regarding the plastic collapse "pins" in the steering shafts, do they go all the way through the solid shaft?  I am trying to rebuild mine and it looks like it's collapsed.  I see 4 countersunk holes in the hollow shaft.  Looking through the holes I just see only the shiny solid shaft.  I figure if that is the case I can tap and extend the hollow shaft until I can see all the way through the 4 holes and then figure how to secure it.  If not, how long is the total correct length of the shaft? 

Second, I am down to removing the upper bearing and collar off the shaft but given several taps on the end of shaft while holding the collar it isn't budging.  I did remove the outside snap ring that retains the bearing.  Any tips so I don't break the collar?

Thanks!

I've heard of people trying to melt plastic back in the holes.....

Cudy Cody posted a picture in this thread that gives you the correct length....  (It was posted July 30, 2018, 10:21:17 AM )

[mopar jack]

This tsb works. It was applied to the 67-69 models.

[1 Wild R/T]

Thanks for that reference.  I assume those lengths are for all year E-bodies then.

@anlauto and @Cuda Cody and anyone else who may know... 

I know this is a old thread but it fits into my dilemma. 

First, regarding the plastic collapse "pins" in the steering shafts, do they go all the way through the solid shaft?  I am trying to rebuild mine and it looks like it's collapsed.  I see 4 countersunk holes in the hollow shaft.  Looking through the holes I just see only the shiny solid shaft.  I figure if that is the case I can tap and extend the hollow shaft until I can see all the way through the 4 holes and then figure how to secure it.  If not, how long is the total correct length of the shaft? 

Second, I am down to removing the upper bearing and collar off the shaft but given several taps on the end of shaft while holding the collar it isn't budging.  I did remove the outside snap ring that retains the bearing.  Any tips so I don't break the collar?

Thanks!

I've heard of people trying to melt plastic back in the holes.....

Cudy Cody posted a picture in this thread that gives you the correct length....  (It was posted July 30, 2018, 10:21:17 AM )

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't....

[Cuda Cody]

@Mrbill426   The glue used by Mopar to fix collapsed steering columns was Loctite 660.  Just buy that and you can repair your column if needed.

LOCTITE 660 is a high strength retaining compound with good gap filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without remachining.
LOCTITE® 660 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where bond gaps occurs without the need for remachining. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. LOCTITE 660 exhibits excellent gap cure characteristics and is also suitable for retaining shims.

Ideal for repairing worn parts without remachining

Enables re-use of worn bearing seats, keys, splines or tapers

Suitable for retaining shims

P1 NSF Reg. No.: 123704

[Mrbill426]

@Cuda Cody  thanks I will get that Loctite 660 from my NAPA.    Safe to assume the 40.75" length is correct for the power '72 shaft too?

@Mrbill426   The glue used by Mopar to fix collapsed steering columns was Loctite 660.  Just buy that and you can repair your column if needed.

LOCTITE 660 is a high strength retaining compound with good gap filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without remachining.
LOCTITE® 660 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where bond gaps occurs without the need for remachining. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. LOCTITE 660 exhibits excellent gap cure characteristics and is also suitable for retaining shims.

Ideal for repairing worn parts without remachining

Enables re-use of worn bearing seats, keys, splines or tapers

Suitable for retaining shims

P1 NSF Reg. No.: 123704