Step by step for K frame removal?

[FSHTAIL]

I'm starting to tear down my front suspension, I'm looking at things and I was simply going to unbolt the front caliper and secure it without having to crack open my brake system, but it looks like that's not possible without removing the brake line to be able to get to the bolts to unbolt calipers. 

So I started to unbolt the lower spindle from the ball joint from the back side and I now realize that it is a nut and bolt securing it not a bolt through a spindle.  So now it appears as though I need to pull the front rotor hub assembly off in order to give those to lower bolts.

Is there any sort of a reference for tearing this whole system apart, my goal is to remove the crossmember while leaving the engine IN the car and just replace with a new QA1 K member with a lot of aftermarket goodies and reinstall.. 

I guess I just like having visuals or a video to go off of to build up a bit of balls to jump into it.

The factory service manual is a bit vague. 

Does such a video or picture by picture guide exist?
I'm just hoping to avoid any unnecessary wrenching if possible because right now it's a challenge with a broken thumb.   

I was installing some door speakers on a friend's car when a 50 mile an hour gust of wind blew the door shut on my thumb

[Bossgold]

here are two videos. It doesn't discuss steering role pin and column removal but you can see in the video that the steering box was left on the K frame. You are going to have to remove the brake lines...but I bought a air bleeder for auto brakeline bleeding of fluid. Works great

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vajz0PpOSEY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLazEFBzKTo

[FSHTAIL]

here are two videos. It doesn't discuss steering role pin and column removal but you can see in the video that the steering box was left on the K frame. You are going to have to remove the brake lines...but I bought a air bleeder for auto brakeline bleeding of fluid. Works great

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vajz0PpOSEY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLazEFBzKTo

Great links!

I've got the coupler and column handled. 
I figured maybe I could use some vacuum caps on the hard lines to keep from draining the system empty. 

I was thinking of jacking up the engine by the pan with some wood under it and holding it in place on a jack stand while I R&R the suspension stuff..     

Maybe I'll grab a 4x4 and make something that supports it?

[dodj]

I used two 2x6's as a beam across the inner fenders, wrapped a sling around the engine. Threaded rod and an eye-bolt to lift it.
Back up one page and you can see it in one of the pics I posted in this thread.

[Dakota]

This will read like one of those "don't try this at home" stories:

I removed as much of the suspension as I could beforehand to reduce weight.  The car was raised up on jacks stands. 

I used a floor jack and a stack of 2x4's and 4x4s on top of a moving blanket to lower mine.   The floor jack was in the middle.  Once I lowered it down to where the jack was running out of room, I moved it to lift on the edges of the K member by working back and forth between the driver and passenger side.  It took a bit, but I got it down safely.  I was able to drag the engine and K member out for under the car by pulling on the blanket. 

[Bossgold]

I built my own simple metal dolly(open in the front) with good casters (key) and a tail for the transmission support.  I also used metal vs wood to bolt a fixture to the front bumper bracket holes and used leverage to pull up the body adjusting good jack stands as i went along. I don't like to guess if my weight to support ratio is going to work.

[FSHTAIL]

I built my own simple metal dolly(open in the front) with good casters (key) and a tail for the transmission support.  I also used metal vs wood to bolt a fixture to the front bumper bracket holes and used leverage to pull up the body adjusting good jack stands as i went along. I don't like to guess if my weight to support ratio is going to work.

I plan on leaving the engine and transmission in place but supporting it by the oil pan

[1 Wild R/T]

I built my own simple metal dolly(open in the front) with good casters (key) and a tail for the transmission support.  I also used metal vs wood to bolt a fixture to the front bumper bracket holes and used leverage to pull up the body adjusting good jack stands as i went along. I don't like to guess if my weight to support ratio is going to work.

I plan on leaving the engine and transmission in place but supporting it by the oil pan

Not a great plan.. You'll be fighting the support structure...    A 4x4 resting on the bolt flanges of the fenders with chain down to the waterpump snout is cheap easy & safe...   If you want to be extra safe buy rent borrow or steal one of these...

https://www.ebay.com/p/8004651067?iid=164091428394&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=164091428394&targetid=885787207871&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032274&poi=&campaignid=6469750693&mkgroupid=89345420792&rlsatarget=aud-622524042678:pla-885787207871&abcId=1141176&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAjwg6b0BRBMEiwANd1_SONLwh0lbsbh8TI-SICCRfbMzuCcaKt-19uinHOvHWjURYoNDr5vqxoCGDYQAvD_BwE

[RUNCHARGER]

I agree, this is a pretty easy job actually, you want to support the engine from up top though. You could even drop the K-member onto some stacked wood etc. if need be, no special jack etc. required. The steering box is a bit heavy on the one side so keep that in mind if you don't remove it first.

[dodj]

The method Wild describes is what I did, but with 2x6's rather than a 4x4. It's very secure and I left it suspended like that for about a week.