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Suspension Kits - Hotchkis vs QA1

Started by dakota1, July 04, 2021, 04:12:23 PM

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dakota1

I have a 1970 Barracuda Gran Coupe which started life as a 383 Automatic and now has a mild build 440 automatic.  Other modifications to date include the Borgeson Steering Sector and Holley Sniper EFI, both of which I have been very happy with!  Now I am wanting to give the car a more modern ride and feel and handling. The car is currently at a point where it would need a lot of suspension bushings and probably shocks replaced, so I have starting looking at some of the rebuild parts and kits.  I know someone local to me that has the Hotchkis TVS kit in a 74 Cuda and says he really loves it.  I've also seen the new QA1 Level 3 Kits with shocks that look pretty interesting and I've always heard great things about QA1 Suspension parts.  So if you were planning to spend somewhere between $2500 - $4000 upgrading suspension, which kit would you choose?  If neither kit, what parts would you change to update the suspension quality.  Car is not a drag strip car, or an autocross car, just mostly cruising and some stop light to stop light action from time to time.  Currently has 15" wheels but would strongly consider changing that to a 17" or 18" wheel if I go through with major suspension changes.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  I've read some earlier posts about suspension, but since the QA1 kit is fairly new, I thought I would get peoples opinion on QA1 Level 3 vs Hotchkis TVS or entirely different options?   
Thanks!

70vert

No direct experience with either, but if you are spending that kind of money I would recommend also doing mini-tubs to allow for bigger tires on the rear. Not sure how much more space, if any, the new front suspensions will give you but stock does not generally allow get you too close to "modern" size wheels & tires.

Good luck with the build.

Chryco Psycho

Personally I would retain the stock upper control arms with added offset bushings & I would retain the T bars , other than that there is so much to this , inner fender stiffeners , rad support stiffeners etc , Hotchkuiss makes a very well balanced kit addressing both the front & rear suspension equally  but you can make it work either way , I would use double adjustable shocks & you can use composite rear leaf springs as Brad did . Hollow tubular sway bars are an advantage having less weight . QA1 has a very nice tubular K frame as well . I would suggest subframe & factory torque plates be added for more chassis stiffness .
The bottom line is you need better chassis stiffness combined with balanced suspension & good shocks + tires & wheels typically account for at least 50% of the increased handling so don't skimp there either .


autoxcuda

#3
Quote from: dakota1 on July 04, 2021, 04:12:23 PM
I have a 1970 Barracuda Gran Coupe which started life as a 383 Automatic and now has a mild build 440 automatic.  Other modifications to date include the Borgeson Steering Sector and Holley Sniper EFI, both of which I have been very happy with!  Now I am wanting to give the car a more modern ride and feel and handling. The car is currently at a point where it would need a lot of suspension bushings and probably shocks replaced, so I have starting looking at some of the rebuild parts and kits.  I know someone local to me that has the Hotchkis TVS kit in a 74 Cuda and says he really loves it.  I've also seen the new QA1 Level 3 Kits with shocks that look pretty interesting and I've always heard great things about QA1 Suspension parts.  So if you were planning to spend somewhere between $2500 - $4000 upgrading suspension, which kit would you choose?  If neither kit, what parts would you change to update the suspension quality.  Car is not a drag strip car, or an autocross car, just mostly cruising and some stop light to stop light action from time to time.  Currently has 15" wheels but would strongly consider changing that to a 17" or 18" wheel if I go through with major suspension changes.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  I've read some earlier posts about suspension, but since the QA1 kit is fairly new, I thought I would get peoples opinion on QA1 Level 3 vs Hotchkis TVS or entirely different options?   
Thanks!

1" PST torsion bars ($200)
1 1/4" Hellwig tubular front sway bar (has better mounting kit than Addco or PST) ($190)
Hotchkis fox shocks ($730)
Stock upper control arms with offset upper bushing installed for more positive caster ($60)
New rubber lower control arm bushings (to isolate road vibrations) ($20)
New Qa1 adjustable strut rod ($230)
1973 C-body tie rod Moog (11/16) ($70/4)
Solid tie rod adjuster Qa1 tubes ($65)
Moog idler arm -if needed ($35)
Moog pitman arm -if needed ($50 if you switched to large spline) ($100 if small spline)

$1625 in my head math... w/o pitman and idler

17x8 rims with 5" backspacing and 245/50/17 good performance tires
Spring Fling April 2024 Woodley Park, Van Nuys CA, 600+ Mopars, 175+ all Mopar swap, Malibu Cruise, Mopar Cruise-In: www.cpwclub.com Date comming...

7212Mopar

#4
I was at a freeway on ramp onto a freeway changeover ramp this afternoon going around 60 mph. Some hotshot with an import sport SUV decided to tailgate me, I mean close range less than half a car for unknown reason. So I step on the pedal to put some distance from him. Car hit about 90 mph in an instant on a downhill then uphill right turn to merge onto the freeway. Car turn and accelerate nice and smooth. No tire squeak, no lean, just smoothly hug to the road.  I have to save my my rear from getting ramp.

Hotchkis kit is nice but lots of money. My setup is mixing parts from different manufacturers. I ended up with Hotchikis single adjustable shocks, front hollow sway bars (super nice) and went with their torsion bars. Upper control arms are non-adjustable PST with their adjustable strut rods, poly graphite bushings, upgraded to 11/16" tie rod ends and their adjustable sleeves. All lower ball joints are Moog. Welded and reinforced stock k frame. Rebuild stock LCAs with welded stiffening plates, geaseable pins and poly bushings, 17" Rallye wheels on Hankook tires (will get better rubber next time). Dr Diff 13" front and 12" rear brakes. I have not done the US CarTools body stiffening kits. I am sure that will make it even better.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

autoxcuda

The upper and lower bushings take a majority of the load and vibrations. I got the idea the OP was trying to get the tighter steering feel.

I've had a complete hotchkis kit on my A-body Barracuda since 2011. The spherical rod ends on the upper control arms and tie rods were loose in like 3000 miles. That's a metal to metal connection. My strut rods bearing are still good.

I take my car on track days and has super stiff 1.14" torsion bars (equal rate to 1.20" E-body T-bars)

The Hotchkis front and rear sway bars are top quality hardware and finish. Helwig bars have very good fit and function. They are just not as fancy, no billet hardware, and powder coating. The price difference

Spring Fling April 2024 Woodley Park, Van Nuys CA, 600+ Mopars, 175+ all Mopar swap, Malibu Cruise, Mopar Cruise-In: www.cpwclub.com Date comming...

70vert

in my previous comment I had assumed you'd already decided to go with either Hotchkis or QA1, but if you are considering stock style I am a big fan of Firm Feel. They are MOPAR experts so can give you guidance and have all the components. I have installed their front suspension parts including stiffer torsion bars (1.06) and got Bilstein shocks from them. It handles way better than stock, but certainly not competition level. I plan to get their hollow front & rear sway bars next. Oh, and I have 17" Cragars with Nitto 55 series tires. 

Anyway, lots of options & decisions that mostly depend on how radical you want and how much money to spend.


torredcuda

I haven`t finished putting my Barracuda back together yet much less drive it to know how it rides and handles but I am doing it on budget a lot less than either of those packages. USC frame connectors, homemade inner fender stiffeners, lower control arm reinforcement plates, PST non adjustable upper control arms and 1.03" torsion bars, solid tie rod sleeves, Firm Feel 1 1-4" front sway bay, Bilstien shocks (back ordered). I have yet to order any upgraded parts for the rear as funds are tight so will do them at a later date, for now a set of worn big block leafs and factory rear sway bar. I did my homework and asked for a lot of advice so I think once I`m done it I`ll be happy with it although I may need to add a larger rear bar if it understeers too much as I think it will.
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/

HP2

There are several ways to approach this. If you like digging into the why and wherefore, don't mind dealing with multiple suppliers, and are doing your own work, then you can piece together a pretty decent selection of parts to get the results you want at a very good price point. If you prefer single point ordering, don't want to do the research, or are paying to have the work done, then there are some advantage to buying a complete, tuned package that are designed to work together, whether that is Hotchkis, QA1. Just Suspension or Firm Feel

jbaha

For my part, i went with QA1 upper control arms and new bushings, new shocks and modern tires /wheel 18" (michelin pilot sport front and bridgestone potenza rear) works well here on curvy roads!

But Chryco resumed it well also!