Suspension lubrication Question

[MKA]

My 70 Challenger that I recently bought appears to have potentially sat for 20 years plus.   The tires with full tread were dated 1999 and even though everything looks new anything that has fluid in it is basically leaking. 

I decided that I need to change all the fluids and lubricate everything that can be lubricated before doing any cruising.  I have one distinct question and will take any advice on the rest:

Planning on greasing the drive shaft, but read the service manual and it states the u joints should be cleaned and old grease removed.  I took that to mean pull the driveshaft.  Is that really necessary?  Is it a bad idea to grease in place?

I'm also changing the rear end oil.  3:23 Sure grip rear.  Using valvoline synthetic 75/90W with additives.  I am getting a single clunk noise when first packing out of the garage   Nothing there after and everything seems tight and no rear end noises otherwise.

Tie rods and ball joints regreasing  was going to use valvoline moly fortified synthetic grease, NLGI 2 EP

Suppose I should repack the wheel bearings, the thought of that just annoys me now.

Some pics just because thought u might enjoy

[Chryco Psycho]

It will depend a lot on hw it was stored , if it was not outside & subject to massive temp changes most things will be fine , I would deal with them as they come up . You can take everything apart if you have the time & ambition to do so .
I would probably stay with 8090 gear oil over using synthetic , some problems have been reported using 100% syn .

[MoparLeo]

Items where the lubricant isn't burned or leaked out will require disassembly and cleaning. This has always been the case with wheel bearings( the rear axle axle had tapered bearings that must be manually lubed with grease.) If you didn't remove the u-joints and clean the bearings, exactly where would the old, grease go so the new grease could get in ? As you have found out, seals that have not seen normal operating temperatures and use conditions, will harden, shrink and leak. Nothing worse than inactivity, just like humans. Stay in bed for 20 years and then get and try to take a long walk. Not happening. If you care about your car, then care for your car.
All fluids should be changed regardless of use. Age is the reason. All fluid changes are based on mileage or time, whichever comes first. Always has been. Look at any maintenance schedule. In fact the first section of your Factory Service Manual covers fluid changes and lubrication schedules. Just take a look and follow it.
Belts and hoses, brake hoses, heater hoses, all deteriorate with age. Doesn't matter what the outside looks like. It is the insides that fail.
Just like your 20 year old tires. Only good for moving around the shop or display purposes now.

[dodj]

 
I would replace the engine, trans and rear end oil, brake fluid, coolant. Then replace the tires.
I would not drop the driveshaft, but I would give the u-joints a couple shots of grease if they have grease fittings and also any greaseable front end fittings.

[MKA]

Thanks all appreciate the comments and advice

Car was stored in doors for sure.  Many things look very fresh, even the stuff that leaks    I hear you on if it ain't broke don't fix it.  That's good advice but many of these things are little basics when done in due time.   It's just feels wrong if that due time is everything at once

Oil, coolant, belts and tires have already been replaced   Rear end oil and the front grease fittings are this week or next.   Somewhere in between is the convertible motor and cylinders all of which are working but leaking, but parts are here.  The rest, the dirty stuff,  I just need patience and time to get done.  The patient part hurts when your itching to go for a ride is all

[jimynick]

The U-joints that have a grease fitting, channel the grease through the cross piece which is hollow and the old grease gets forced out by the new, so grease away. Take a look at the brake fluid, it shouldn't be the colour of whisky and if it is, I'd open the rt rear bleeder and refreshing the MC with new fluid as you go, pump until you get clean fluid and then do the other 3. You might also consider pulling the plugs, squirt a wee dab of oil into each cylinder and roll it over with the starter until you see some oil pressure on the gauge before you fire it up- if it isn't too late already. Good luck and hopefully, happy motoring- soon. 

[resq302]

As others have mentioned, change out all the fluids is cheap insurance especially if the car has been sitting.  You dont know how often or how old that fluid is.  We just got my great grandmothers 57 Dodge 2 door Suburban wagon and even though my cousin last drove it in 1985, the coolant still looks clean and green, we are changing that as well as all of the other fluids in the car.  This way, you know you are starting out fresh.  Also, I'd use regular dino oil over synthetic stuff.  I've had some issues with the new synthetic stuff leaked out past the seals even with new seals.  I'm assuming its because it was so thin vs. the regular dino oil stuff thats refined. But, thats more of a personal preference.  I'd also inspect the brakes too. 

[dodj]

By the way...Nice looking car!

[JS29]

Keep in mind the modern oils do not contain zinc, so consider additive. I am told diesel oil dose contain zinc, that is what I use. 

[resq302]

for the antiques, I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil which has added zinc to it.  For freshly rebuilt engines, Brad Penn SAE 30 weight.