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Torsion bar initial setup

Started by tparker, June 03, 2024, 11:59:56 PM

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tparker

I tried looking at how to adjust the torsion bars but I mostly got info on how to raise or  lower ride height. Does any one have info on how to "preload" the torsion bars to get it in the right ball park? I got the car raised and it is easy to get to. I removed the torsion bars and would like to get them close to the right torque before I lower the car, then I can adjust as necessary. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tom

1970 cuda Joe

1970 cuda 440-6, 4 speed, Moulin Rouge, re-creation

tparker

thanks, but  no there wasn't any info on how much tension to  start  with. Just turn it to get your ride  height. So that is what I will do. I'll get  it so it is just engaged the tweak it when on the ground.


erik70rt

Quote from: tparker on June 04, 2024, 08:51:40 AMthanks, but  no there wasn't any info on how much tension to  start  with. Just turn it to get your ride  height. So that is what I will do. I'll get  it so it is just engaged the tweak it when on the ground.


You can't have any load on them when you inset them, or you won't get them in!  When I inset them, I make sure the adjuster is in the proper position so that when you tighten the bolt you can you are loading them.  Considering the hexagonal shape, it's pretty easy to figure out where the adjuster needs to be.
Contrary to the opinions of some, I am not dumber than I look.

7212Mopar

I kind of recall there were post showing the hex of the adjuster below the LCAs to start. I suppose the torsion bar size and the front end weight will change things a bit. Most of the pictures I seen to hex is exposed below the LCAs and you can check, drive around and then check again. Mine lowered by a bit less than half inch two weeks later. Takes sometime to settle.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

Bullitt-

#5
 FSM gives no specification... Adjust bolt to place load on.. then adjust as required. 

I will add make the adjustment's with weight off the ground to avoid striping the bolt

Here is a good post on setting the ride height https://forum.e-bodies.org/index.php?msg=328794
.                                               [glow=black,42,300]Doin It Southern Syle[/glow]       

tparker

Thanks  all. I already put the torsion bars back in and was just trying to figure out a  rough initial setup. The FSM had no info other than  they should be close to the same height with some maximum deviation. I did find a post after searching the web from here where I think @Cuda Cody mentioned about a 1/2 inch or so space from the frame to the bumper. I think this is probably the best idea. Lower the height to where you like it, but have some play between the rubber stop and the frame. At least that's where I will start with.


MoparLeo

Follow the Factory Service Manual instructions. There is no "torque spec" on a torsion bar. It is just a type of spring. Unless your torsion bars are damaged the difference in strength is determined by their diameter. This info is also in the Factory Service Manual.
Always best to research your questions in the FSM before asking for opinions.
The Factory wrote the Service Manuals for the Dealers mechanics to use for reference to work on customers cars.
Great Library right on this site for Service manuals and Dealer Tech Bulletins.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

tparker

Thanks @MoparLeo,

yeah I looked at the service manual, the repo one I have, but it doesn't really say much in regards to how to set them up. It tells you how measure the height and that they should be with in a certain height tolerance between the left and right. But not sure  what ranges to  shoot  for.  For instance,  my bolts  were all the way out and the frame was against the bump stop.  If the height on  both  the left and right side  were within the 1/8  difference spec, or  whatever it is, that would  be OK,  but I don't  think we would  want it that low. I just figured I  would ask in case  I was missing something.

MoparLeo

Ride height is pretty straight forward. The setup is explained very clearly. It is a chassis measurement under the car. It is not a difference between left and right sides. Each side is measured on its own. If after adjusting each side to spec and there is more than 1/8" difference, you need to check for damage.
 What size tires and wheels are you working with ? And what are you trying to accomplish ?
Complete details need to always be in your questions. We don't see what you see. Only the words you post.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

tparker

My car details are a 1970 challenger with 14" tires. I switched to disk brakes and put everything back together and now am getting it road ready and need to add tension to the torsion bar. I was trying to  figure out where to set it.

I've read that passage in the FSM a few times and it isn't the clearest thing I've read and I misread part of. I now see what they are saying and I actually see the numbers. I have  the car on ramps and wanted to get it "close" while I can easily get under there, but it  doesn't  make sense since I wont have  the ground as a reference point. So I have to wait till I get other stuff done  then get it on the ground.

Anyways, thanks for the info a patience.


RUNCHARGER

#11
As to your initial question. What I do after a full suspension tear down is run the adjuster bolts in until they are flush with the rails of the lower control arms. They will be fairly close with the original T-bars but will have to be fine tuned when it's on the ground and bounced/driven several times.
Sheldon

tparker

awesome, that is something I was looking for. I can get it close to there then adjust it once I get it back on the ground with exact measurements.

Thanks All!

MoparLeo

There has to be more to this story.
Why did you remove the torsion bars? You do kno0w that the alignment will need to be done again.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

tparker

Im completely rebuilding the car. I replaced several components.  Yes I understand it would effect the alignment and that isn't much of a big deal. Heck, it probably wasn't correct when I originally drove it around. LOL. All I was asking was an initial point to set the ride height (turn the screw) before doing it on the ground since it is easier. With it completely unloaded, the car sits low  to the ground and it is a pain to get under the car to adjust it. I was asking what is a good  starting point, then adjust it when I lower it. There there was the question of what exact height. I already mentioned I misunderstood what the book  was saying and found the spec and thanks  to your post  pointing out the measurements, I now get  it  and what I  will do.

Nothing more than that. I didn't think it was important to mention what work I did, I figured just saying I pulled the torsions bar  was enough to explain the situation I was in and why  I needed the help.