1970 Barracuda Reanimated.

[Marty]

I meant to post here but it slipped my mind. I did find a set. (Of course, the ones I thought I had will probably show up shortly after they arrive.)

Seriously... Thanks for the AMD suggestion. It's something I hadn't considered.

[Marty]

Brought out the back glass for cleaning. First, the urethane that was glued to the glass had to be removed. Not an easy thing to do. Fresh razor blades and solvents were used to remove it. After that, the back glass was deep cleaned and coated with some paste wax.

Going back to the back glass channel, I finished drilling the molding clip holes. Finding the location of the holes was easy. I just ran my fingers along the back of the channel and located what was left of the broken screws and drilled a hole off to the side. Installed all clips.

Fitting the molding. This is because I can adjust the clip tension with the screws before the glass is installed. I turn the screw till the molding pops on with a firm push of the hand. I use the molding tool to remove the molding to leave the clips as they were set.

I cleaned out the channel and ran the 5/16 Butyl ribbon sealant around the edge of the pinch weld. Put the rubber blocks in place. To make things work smoothly, I spray Quick Detailer onto the butyl seal and the inside edge of the back glass and then install the glass. The detailer will allow me to move the glass around so I can center it. Once the detailer dries, I press the glass firmly onto the butyl to make a tight seal. Clean the glass.

Prepared to restore the molding.

[ebodyproducts]

Two of the molding clips should be spacers for the rear glass. Unless you have them and haven't installed them yet.


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[Marty]

 I didn't have them, so I went with the rubber spacer blocks that were supplied with the Butyl kit.

[Marty]

Restored the back glass molding. The tools I used was a body hammer with a squared end. (I rounded the edges to get a clean hit on the stainless.) Jewelers file, foam sanding block, steel dolly, an anvil, and assorted sandpaper starting at 120 and ending at 2500.

I tapped the dent from the back of the molding against the dolly/anvil till it was flat. Level the repair with the jeweler's file and use the 120 and 220 to smooth the surface. From then on I used different grades of sandpaper starting with 320 for removing the scratches and dulling to start to bring back the luster of the molding. Finished up with 2500. I wiped the trim down with lacquer thinner in between grits.

This was all done by hand sanding the length of the trim. Listed the grits below.

I used black compound on the stitched buffing wheel and finished with green on the loose cotton wheel. Cleaned off the sludge and installed the trim.

*Respect that buffer.

180/220 for repair. (dry.) 320/400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500 polish. (wet or dry.)

[dodj]

Looks nice Marty. Mine has been installed for over 20 years now. I ought to take it off and give it  a good cleaning/buffing.

[anlauto]

Tedious work with tremendous reward 

[usraptor]

Brings back not to pleasant memories.  I did the same with all the SS trim on my 'Cuda.  Countless hours invested in the process.  My least favorite part of the entire restoration.  But I will admit when I finally finished and installed it all I did have a great feeling of satisfaction.     Great job on yours!   

[Marty]

 

It is mind-numbing work for sure and the hours just slip by. I bought all my equipment and supplies for under $100. Small investment compared to having someone else do it for you.  It is worth it all around though.


...and thank you. 

[Marty]

Now I have all the parts needed to complete the 3-speed wiper assembly.

Media blasted the linkage. Applied a couple of coats of acid etch primer. Finished with some flat black single stage.

[Marty]

Made it through a dead spot in this build. 

Bought a tinted windshield through Summit. AMD. I did a dry run install and it fit just fine. While I was at it, I decided to get a new tinted back Glass too. I hate rework but I think I had a good reason or two. The clear back glass was of driver quality, and it just annoyed me, and the molding sat a bit too high to my liking. When the glass was ordered, I also bought some front and rear OE-style molding clips that I found on eBay.

Removed the back Glass and did a dry run fitting of the new back Glass. It also fits just fine. 

I compared the trim clips sold by OER to the eBay ones. The OE style is a bit shorter. That should solve the trim height issue...and it did. I suppose the OER stuff is more of a universal type of clip.  Anyway, I rebuffed the trim and installed the new back glass. The tinted back glass looks much better, I like the way the tint compliments the Limelight paint.

Prepped and painted the rear window interior and headliner molding.

I dug through the pile of drip rail molding and picked out the best set. Did some repairs on one of them, then sand and buff. 1500/2000/2500. After that back-breaking job, I installed the right-side trim and channel using low-profile screws.

Loaded up the Dana to take to Brown's Performance for a gear swap.

[RUNCHARGER]

Looks good, I can't believe how wrong those clips were, well maybe I can. Ha, ha, buffing trim is an interesting job. I always put on a monkey suit and put the buffer in the middle of my lawn and let her fly. I don't think it's possible to clean everything up afterwards if you do it in a building.

[Marty]

Thanks!

The clip thing was a hunch so I took a chance on the OE style. Like you, I was surprised but not really.

Let her fly, are we talking about the trim when it catches the buffing pad?  I add leather gloves and a face shield for my buffing attire.

[RUNCHARGER]

Ha, ha, the catching thing is fun too. No I wear a full body condom and polish in the middle of the yard just to minimize all the black juice that flies everywhere within 50 feet it seems.

[Marty]

  That would be quite the sight to see from the street. 

Come to think about it, maybe a catcher's mitt instead of gloves would be a better choice.