1970 Barracuda Reanimated.

[7E-Bodies]

I can't thank you enough for the details you've provided. I worked in auto body in the early 80's but so much has changed that it's not even comparable. I'm currently in paint prep stages on a well preserved 70 440 Challenger and always have little, stupid questions. I painted several completes back in the day and was well liked, but those were lacquer or centari jobs, archaic by today's chems. Taping the lines still leaves me with dumb questions. I get the part about maintaining body lines but (insert dumb question) do you move the tape from below the line to above the line during sanding? Similar dumb question for taping the lines during cut and buff. I also appreciated how you explained another mystery, and that's how to hide tape lines at trunk gutter drop offs and door jambs and fender-to-engine compartment areas. Mine is a F8 dark green metallic and I'm committed to PPG Deltron BCCC and their compatible products. Again, thanks for such great details.

[Marty]

I've seen so many forum users get stuck and fed bogus vague textbook information of this mysterious world of paint, I thought I'd show how I did it and get super results.

I'd like to have posted more about the bodywork but the car was in great shape and needed very little repair. These little tricks you've noticed will give you a better end product and you're not taking shortcuts. Know the product. Anyone can get a "Show Car Finish" (whatever that is) if you know the process. It's simple but not easy. Paint and bodywork are very unforgiving and will burn you if you are not careful. It's alot of work anyway so push a bit further and make it worthwhile. You'll be amazed.

Anyway...

Yes. I swap the tape to the opposite side once the area is sanded. I wipe the sanded area with Acetone or lacquer thinner so the tape will stick. If the line is still off, prime, guide coat, and repeat. You may have to glaze the area if the line is way off or dinged. Use the same tape procedure when applying and sanding the glaze.

No. I taped the edges once when I cut and buffed, and it was more of a hassle than a benefit in my opinion. Why? If you tape the edge at cutting, you will leave the finish that you were trying to get rid of under the tape. A high gloss finish could show that surface difference. Besides, the water and the motion of the sanding block will push the tape off eventually.

When you tape an edge while buffing, afterward (3 sessions,) you'll have a dull tape line that you have to buff out by hand. Have fun buffing polyurethane by hand especially with a three-step procedure I use. Most likely the buffing pad will rip off or peel back the tape. And..... what's stopping you from busting through the clear by buffing by hand anyway?

Just be careful and focus especially during the aggressive sanding. That's where the buff throughs start. The buffer just finishes the job.

Thank you for your comment. I just want to show you guys that you don't have to settle for a mediocre finish because of a preconceived notion of a "Show Car Finish".

[Marty]

Now to cut the paint.

This is the stage that can make even a garden variety paint job look great, providing you have enough clearcoat applied. I'm a bit aggressive when it comes to sanding on clearcoat so that's why I used high solids clearcoat only. Past experience showed me that three coats of high solids clear is good for two cut and buff sessions, not that it's needed. After through curing, which will leave me with a hard shell finish, I break out the bucket of water,20/80 water bottle and the sand paper. I'll use pictures of the hood to explain how I do the cutting on the complete body of the Barracuda.

I start with some soaked 800 wrapped around the hard block. Splash the panel and use the bottle to keep the surface wet. Then start sanding in front to back motions of the panel. No side to side. Using the squeegee to wipe the surface, clean off the sludge and notice what the sandpaper is doing. Once the panel is flat with no shine, I move on to 1000 grit using a softer sanding pad.

This time, I move from side to side only. This is why. I use the same technique when I block out body filler/primer to get the surface flat. Criss X cross patterns. If you sand in one direction only on all grits you may get ruts, visible micro scratching and distortions. It's also easier to track your sanding. When I think I'm finish with one grit and go to the next, I make sure the surface is free of scratch from the prior grit, if not sand I'll till it's removed then move to the next grit. Focus and you'll see the fine sandpaper scratch's going against the grain.

Once the 1000 is complete (side to side), move to 1500 (front to back), 2000 (side to side), 2500 (front to back.) I always finish the hand sanding with the front to back grit. I sanded the Shaker Ring starting with 1500 grit.

As you sand, you'll notice the shine returning.

[Marty]

Cutting continued.

This step is optional. The compound doesn't have to work as hard the smoother the surface. After the 2500 grit is done, I use a D.A. sander with a velcro interface pad and a 3000 grit sanding pad. One pad will sand the complete car body. Using the squirt bottle of 20/80 water, then just run the D.A. over the surface of the panel for a short time, clean the surface then prepare for buffing.

I could work my way up to 5000, but I think 3000 is sufficient. A D.A. sander isn't necessary either. Just use the sanding pad instead. Just make sure the last grit sandpaper goes the length of the panels/body.

Sometimes I'll sand the complete body with single grits or sometimes I work one panel at a time. No rhyme or reason.

I used MIRKA ABRALON sanding pads for the final sanded finish. 3M or Mirka if using just the sandpaper.

[ec_co]

I'm curious about your VIN. is it a COE or COB? if COE, is it a high or low #? just curious because I've seen a few low # base slants withe the B5/3spd combo out of the LA plant.

impressive body/paint work. I'm getting close to that stage now, but seriously dreading the costs with where paint/body costs have gone the last few years.

[Marty]

It's BH23 COE 142133. I'm curious now what all that means. Considering this car, I just never checked into it.

Thank you. I still get sticker shock now and then when I visit my supplier, especially when I bought this Limelight base. It's getting tougher & tougher to stay in the middle of the climbing cost of paint supplies. I'm dreading this year with the oil costs creeping up again.

[ec_co]

C0E = C is Slant 6 225cu.in, 0 is '70 and the E means it was built at the LA plant, I seem to see a lot of slants come out of the LA plant (including mine 000322 and another member here Al has a '70 Challenger slant 6 3spd sequenced @ 000130ish, both built the 1st few days of '70 production). cool to see another one even if it's not a slanty anymore.

[Marty]

The last major step in the painting process. Buffing.

Pretty straightforward. I use a Makita variable speed buffer with three compounds and pads. I buff the compound into the finish. No particular size of the area, just buff till the compound is gone and move on to the next area. I make sure I overlap. When I finish a panel, I wipe off the compound haze with a micro cloth then I move to the next finer compound.


Makita variable speed buffer. Buffing RPM.1500.                  2nd buffing. Meguiars #83                   3rd buffing. Mirka Polarshine VF5
Wool pad with Mirka Polarshine compound 20.                Foam waffle pad (white) 3M#05723         Foam waffle pad. (gray)3M#05725
Four quarter-sized dabs, spread with a chip brush.           One half dollar size dab/spread.                One quarter size dab. 1000 RPM.


* Lubricate the foam pads with Quick Detailer if needed. Wipe the completed panel off with a micro cloth. Polish/wax if desired. (I use F-11.) I use linear motions when waxing/polishing to avoid micro scratching over time (swirls). Use separate brushes for each compound. When buffing small parts I strap the buffer to a sawhorse with a bungee cord, pad side up, preset at 1000 RPM. "WARNING"-Keeping the pad spinning away from the part to avoid damaging the paint, part, or you.

[anlauto]

This paint job is looking fantastic 

[Marty]

   Thank you.

[RUNCHARGER]

Thank you for the tutorial. I bet a lot of people are quietly referencing your work.

[Marty]

My pleasure. I just wanted to help out and let the owners on this forum know, that they don't need a magic wand to get a great finish on their car.

[YellowThumper]

Looking top notch all the way.
Thanks for all the detailing along the way.  Will be a huge help for many years to come.

[Marty]

It was a nice day so I took advantage of some partial Sunlight coming through the shop door to check out the finish.

I bagged up the Barracuda to prep and spray single-stage black in the cowl area. I sanded the area with 400 grit and a red scuff pad, cleaned it, tack it off, and sprayed. 

I used the same paint on the cowl and channels as I did on the radiator support. CPS Coatings. CPS-4006SG. Semi-Gloss Black. With a 3-1 mix activated. Kit form. 10% reduction (slow) is optional.

[7E-Bodies]

That is killer. You've bolstered my confidence.