70 440-six pack project

[6bblgt]

all 440/426 cars have the S15 - XHD (eXtra Heavy-Duty/"HEMI") suspension 034/024 springs 780/781 torsion bars STANDARD

[anlauto]

The car should be stripped down to bare metal 100%, it's the only way to do a correct restoration...

[xx88man]

You mentioned possibly dipping the car.....from what I understand that's not a good idea when working on a Mopar. 

[Jim AAR]

You mentioned possibly dipping the car.....from what I understand that's not a good idea when working on a Mopar. 

Not that you can't dip it but acid dipping thins the metal and removes the blobs of deadener (tar) that is in between panel supports and panels, and it is hard to get back in which can cause rattles.

[E74cuda]

all 440/426 cars have the S15 - XHD (eXtra Heavy-Duty/"HEMI") suspension 034/024 springs 780/781 torsion bars STANDARD

Thanks Dan, My memory's a little rusty once in a while.

[usraptor]

Sheldon, how for did you actually take it.  Did you do a full paint of or just address the places needed?  The body has just enough going for it that the body is straight and has places that are needed to be fixed.  If I take it to the metal I will be in that place where the body work will have to be done again.  This car deserves a bare metal restore for sure.  I would like to be driving it a lot sooner.  You have a great point.

I also media blasted my 'Cuda.  That way you see exactly what you've got. I ended up replacing my quarters when I saw what a hack job had been done in repairing previous TA damage.  None of this was visible until after the car was media blasted and the bondo removed.

[anlauto]

Sheldon, how for did you actually take it.  Did you do a full paint of or just address the places needed?  The body has just enough going for it that the body is straight and has places that are needed to be fixed.  If I take it to the metal I will be in that place where the body work will have to be done again.  This car deserves a bare metal restore for sure.  I would like to be driving it a lot sooner.  You have a great point.

I also media blasted my 'Cuda.  That way you see exactly what you've got. I ended up replacing my quarters when I saw what a hack job had been done in repairing previous TA damage.  None of this was visible until after the car was media blasted and the bondo removed.

Do you know how many cars I have pictures of where the owners swore the panels were in great shape 

[whitsend]

The front grille is the original grille.  I am not sure if it will make a restore or if the way to go would be a new one.  For those of you that have done a restore on a front grille I would be interested in what worked for you.

I repaired/restored a cracked 71 Cuda' grille years ago. I used a plastic welding kit. I think I bought it from Eastwood but it's been years ago and can't be sure anymore. It's a bit hard to get used to but worked well for me. Bevel out the areas that need repair to get a good "V" shaped base to fill. Do one side at a time. Overfill the crack a bit then sand the overfill to the correct finish. Then prep and paint.  Maybe there is something better on the market now.    Also if you do a search, I'm sure you can find some info on plastic welding somewhere.

Good Luck!   

[1 Wild R/T]

This was posted years ago on another website by Scott Harms Smith.. He has a background in plastics molding
7 production so I trust his input... Also just a sharp guy so the trust is well deserved...

Repairing a cracked grill

Start with 100% pure Acetone, buy a gallon. 
Pour an ounce or so into a glass jar (small open mouth jar). Take a scrap grill and using something sharp, scrape off peelings (like pencil shavings size) into the jar of acetone. Put allot of shavings in, the acetone will gradually melt the plastic into a goo. Add enough plastic until the goo reaches toothpaste consistency. Once you have a good batch melted put the lid on the jar tightly and set it aside. Now, prep your grill as normal, V out cracks on both sides, etc. Use clamps near the joint to align the two sides flush and parallel. Smear on some plastic goo, leave it crowned up over the crack like a regular weld looks, let it cure overnight. Sand to flush the next day, fill any pinholes with JB Weld. The crack will practically disappear at this point, paint as normal

[whitsend]

This was posted years ago on another website by Scott Harms Smith.. He has a background in plastics molding
7 production so I trust his input... Also just a sharp guy so the trust is well deserved...

Repairing a cracked grill

Start with 100% pure Acetone, buy a gallon. 
Pour an ounce or so into a glass jar (small open mouth jar). Take a scrap grill and using something sharp, scrape off peelings (like pencil shavings size) into the jar of acetone. Put allot of shavings in, the acetone will gradually melt the plastic into a goo. Add enough plastic until the goo reaches toothpaste consistency. Once you have a good batch melted put the lid on the jar tightly and set it aside. Now, prep your grill as normal, V out cracks on both sides, etc. Use clamps near the joint to align the two sides flush and parallel. Smear on some plastic goo, leave it crowned up over the crack like a regular weld looks, let it cure overnight. Sand to flush the next day, fill any pinholes with JB Weld. The crack will practically disappear at this point, paint as normal

Sounds easier than the plastic welding. The only thing I might do different is do one side at a time. Thanks for letting us in on the alternative.