74 Challenger with twins

[YellowThumper]

For a long time I have not been happy with the lack of lighting with my dash lights. Purchased a spare light bar/plate and hacked out the old lights, bezels and green lenses. Purchased two 6 inch ish LED bar lights. They are stated as ground effect lights. Purchased from a local Socal electronic store called Orvacs.  Also purchased a dimming unit off of Amazon. Pics include packaging but it is generic.

[ClarkWGrizwald]

Been a while.....any updates?
Thanks

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

[Chryco Psycho]

That is a slight improvement in the lighting   

[YellowThumper]

Lol to see this. I just updated on the "what did you do with your... thread.
Nothing to speak of with it. Pulled a bunch of the EFI wiring to retrace and change some grounds. One of the electric fans seized up. Was a factory Dodge piece from late 90s. Have replacement Spal fans and aluminum to make new shroud. Soon...
Currently knee deep into the top half of engine in a 68 Stang.
My teen daughter wants to drive that. Expecting to finish it this week. So if all goes as planned. I should have progress soon.
Work (temporally now at home) is a medical engineering and product facility. Currently buried with Covid-19 emergency projects.

[YellowThumper]

Well...
Finally an improvement post.
One of the fans seized up on jy fan setup I had awhile back. So it has just been sitting as I continue to keep spinning in the cycle of doom with a never ending Mustang saga.

Made a dual fan and shroud to replace it with a better setup.
Bought a cheap Harbor Freight nibbler and have to say it worked really well cutting the 0.080 aluminum to size.
Dug out a homemade brake. Unfortunately not well cared for but still works.
Bottom is located and contained when pulled up and bolted in place at top. Was able to use the same relocation mounting brackets that holds the radiator. The two cutouts on bottom are clearance for intercooler piping.
The flap holes made with KO punches. The fan openings cut with hand jig saw. The sides are simple 90° bends that are pop riveted on.
Now to wire in. Going to clean up the old mess significantly. There were several wiring iterations just to keep it running. Will wire in the variable speed controller.

[RUNCHARGER]

Nice job, The pre-made ones never fit just right anyway.

[anlauto]

Very nice handy work there 

[YellowThumper]

Since I got a taste of improvement from the fan shroud. I started back tracing my previous wiring to confirm all is correct. Part of this is because I am now going to have the primary fuse and relay block located in trunk. Original wiring plan was ok but this will end up cleaner in the end.
Also made a directional decision on the custom dash layout.
Knocking the dash out will open up ability to get the pile of floorboard wiring cleaned up as well.
Coils are confirmed now. Next up, crank trigger.

[YellowThumper]

Well... wiring  .
Previous update I had the coils confirmed correct.  NOPE! Turns out I was feeding 12V to the coils signal ground. Assuming now all 8 coils are toast. Will correct and replace them.
Next is to rewire grounding path for the water and air temp sensors.  Slow and methodical this time...

[RUNCHARGER]

Yikes.

[Chryco Psycho]

That is not cool , you know for sure the coils are toast ??

[YellowThumper]

That is not cool , you know for sure the coils are toast ??

Unknown if they are bad. Have read some about testing them. I already have another set from a couple years ago. So I will retest with them instead.

Delving deeper into the wiring I initially was (semi) correct. Grounded but not to the ECU which is proper. The change to bad... came when attempting to correct the non spark. There is a test mode in ECU and I had no spark from beginning.  Now with more thorough knowledge I am improving first attempt.
As for no spark during test cycle. I believe I may not have had coil plugged into spark plug wire. No plug ground = no spark. Attempting to have corrected and improved wiring ready by this weekend for testing again

[YellowThumper]

Starting to make perfect sense now...
ECU driven by relay powered by key on and while cranking.
Injectors and coils on another relay (for noise solation) signaled by ECU relay.
Fuel pump on it's own relay triggered the same.
ECU must be functioning for all to fire off.

Correcting the signal grounds next for IAT, water and TPS.
Then wire in for the oxygen sensor.
Crank sensor has already been providing correct readings.
Power block is from a Lincoln that has trunk mounted battery. More relays and available fuses than i will ever use.
Full plan for it will be to essentially eliminate the factory harness.
Hopeful plan is I will not need to reinstall this cap...

[Chryco Psycho]

Makes perfect sense

[YellowThumper]

Finished retracing all the sensor and injector wiring. Did some changing on the way sensors were grounded. All now are into ECU first then ECU to engine. The coil packs ground to heads as well.
No pics but ended up making some short buss bars to hold wiring onto heads.
The fuse and relay block is also installed with the redesigned layout.
Nothing this time is neat and pretty. That will happen if thos works as intended. Cut out the partial exhaust to fit the wideband bung. Exhaust pipe will just be clamped back together for now. Will be replaced with 2.5" when turbos are on. Of course I had to mock up for visual...
Have tired of just talking about them.

This was an all day affair 9am to 9pm.
Still hope to test fire coils this weekend.

Family time is looming.