Main Menu

Project Beast Car - My 73 'Cuda Restomod

Started by rdf, May 07, 2019, 12:22:38 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

anlauto

Quote from: rdf on May 07, 2019, 03:40:00 PM
Here's my new gas tank...was gonna put it in last weekend but I wanted to know what the 4 stubs are for on the back of the tank?? They connect to 4 hoses up on the body but I can't tell what it's connected to.  Any ideas??





In a stock set-up those four hoses hook up to a gas tank vent system. Your car might still have the vent canister mounted up in the rear sho :alan2cents:ck crossmember !
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

rdf

Quote from: anlauto on May 08, 2019, 07:16:36 AM
In a stock set-up those four hoses hook up to a gas tank vent system. Your car might still have the vent canister mounted up in the rear sho :alan2cents:ck crossmember !

Yes, there is still a canister up attached to the body so I'm assuming that's what it must be.  Is it functional?  Can I (and should I) replace the canister contents?  I've never had to deal with this before, which is why I'm a little stumped.  :thinking:
If we never drown we'll never know how well it tastes...so tell me how it tastes and I'll know just how well you drowned.

Burdar





That is called a vapor separator.  It's what vents the gas tank.  The tank needs to be vented.  Don't throw it away.  There is a valve inside that lets the fuel vapors travel to the charcoal canister in the engine compartment.  If the charcoal canister is removed, the tank will still vent but the vapors will be open to the air.

Soak your vapor separator in EvapoRust to clean out the inside.  The valve(check ball) inside only allows air to pass through it in the middle of its travel.  It will block air flow when the check ball is against its seats.  You can block all but two of the nipples, then suck/blow through it.  You should hear/feel the check ball moving.


rdf

Quote from: Burdar on May 08, 2019, 08:41:16 AM
That is called a vapor separator.  It's what vents the gas tank.  The tank needs to be vented.  Don't throw it away.  There is a valve inside that lets the fuel vapors travel to the charcoal canister in the engine compartment.  If the charcoal canister is removed, the tank will still vent but the vapors will be open to the air.

Soak your vapor separator in EvapoRust to clean out the inside.  The valve(check ball) inside only allows air to pass through it in the middle of its travel.  It will block air flow when the check ball is against its seats.  You can block all but two of the nipples, then suck/blow through it.  You should hear/feel the check ball moving.

Wow, thank you for the info and the pictures....makes it much easier to piece together.  When I bought the car, it had a SB, 360 in it but it didn't have the charcoal canister in the engine compartment.  I don't plan on putting one in either so my next question would be, is it ok to connect the gas tank to the vapor separator with the 4 tubes and not have a vent tube that's supposed to go to the engine bay?  I would think so but just want to be sure.
If we never drown we'll never know how well it tastes...so tell me how it tastes and I'll know just how well you drowned.

Burdar

Earlier years didn't use a charcoal canister.  They just vented the tank to the atmosphere.   The difference between those cars and your setup is that the vent line(s) in the earlier years ran up high into the trunk.(much higher than the fuel tank)  This is so you wouldn't have any raw fuel dumping out of the lines on hot days...when the fuel expanded.

Since the vapor separator is pretty low, I would run a vent line up as high as you can get it.  I'd also put a few loops in the line.  If you have a full tank of gas and the temps get high, fuel can expand into the vapor separator.  With the vent line running up high, you lessen the chance of raw fuel getting up that high and spilling out.   

rdf

Sorry it's been so long since I've posted but I haven't had the chance to work on the car much at all.  Had a busy summer with the family and taking lots of vacations  :)

I started drawing out where I want my electrical plate under the dash and was able to pick up a nice piece of aluminum which I just have to get cut to the correct size.  Once I get that done, I can mount it under the dash, to the firewall, and then start putting all the electrical items on it.

Progress has been so slow and frustrating that I'm to the point where I'm seeking a shop or someone that I can pay to help put it back together.  I've got a list of all the things that need to be done, all the parts I have, and parts/things that I still need to get.  Most of the parts I still need are smaller items (transmission kickdown assembly, etc.) but I'm gonna try to find them before the work finishes.  Right now I'd be happy to get someone or some place to get it running and then I can go from there.  I live in Orlando, FL so if anyone knows of a reputable shop or mechanic that would be willing to take on such work, please let me know.  Just to be clear, I don't need the interior, doors, trunk, or hood to be put on by them as this (and some other smaller items) is something I can do and will also save me some money as well.
If we never drown we'll never know how well it tastes...so tell me how it tastes and I'll know just how well you drowned.

ClarkWGrizwald

Quote from: gzig5 on May 08, 2019, 07:10:40 AM
Welcome.

That rendering is almost exactly what I am shooting for with my 73. I snagged a copy for my screen saver.  Your car is looking good.

Whose rear spring mounts are those?
More spring mount details!  How far did you move them in? What size rear wheel you make/got?  Looks awesome so far!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk



rdf

Quote from: ClarkWGrizwald on October 22, 2019, 11:07:14 AM
Quote from: gzig5 on May 08, 2019, 07:10:40 AM
Welcome.

That rendering is almost exactly what I am shooting for with my 73. I snagged a copy for my screen saver.  Your car is looking good.

Whose rear spring mounts are those?
More spring mount details!  How far did you move them in? What size rear wheel you make/got?  Looks awesome so far!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

I'll get you this info when I have some free time at home.  I can tell you the springs are from summit racing and were around $140ish, as far as the brackets, I'll look back at my receipts to see where I got them and take some measurements as well.

The rear wheels were custom made by Stockton Wheel out in CA.  I paid $650 for both but they have a 6.5" backspacing so they fit right under the quarter panel once the springs are relocated.  :bigthumb:
If we never drown we'll never know how well it tastes...so tell me how it tastes and I'll know just how well you drowned.

rdf

#23
Quote from: ClarkWGrizwald on October 22, 2019, 11:07:14 AM
Quote from: gzig5 on May 08, 2019, 07:10:40 AM
Welcome.

That rendering is almost exactly what I am shooting for with my 73. I snagged a copy for my screen saver.  Your car is looking good.

Whose rear spring mounts are those?
More spring mount details!  How far did you move them in? What size rear wheel you make/got?  Looks awesome so far!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

So I looked through all my records but couldn't find anything regarding the spring mounts...then it dawned on me; I have a friend who made them for me back when I had him make the frame rail connectors for me as well.  In some of my previous pictures, you can see he made a bar that sticks up under the bumper and he welded that to the frame and then made the spring brackets and welded them to that bar.

See the attached picture for my rims.  I believe they are 15x10 with a 6.5" backspacing.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If we never drown we'll never know how well it tastes...so tell me how it tastes and I'll know just how well you drowned.

ClarkWGrizwald

Well that setup is great and ill probably copy that. I'd like to see the springs move in 2 inches. I have 10.5" wide wheels and im going to try to squeeze 345 rear tires in there. My back spacing is 6.62"  im hoping it'll fit.  Yours gives me more hope! I can weld up whatever I need to make it work. Comes down to actual space inside the actual wheel well i think.  If not I'll just get 305 or 315s. 
Thanks for the pics!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk


dodj

@ClarkWGrizwald
I have 10.5" wide wheels with 6 5/8 bs.  1.5" offset spring hangers. The 315's fit with a bit of space left over.
Based on my car, I would say a 345 could fit. May have to roll the lip a bit.

@rdf
Body and paint for a fish tank! You did alright there even if it's not a show winning paint job.  :clapping:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


ClarkWGrizwald

Quote from: dodj on October 24, 2019, 04:18:45 AM
@ClarkWGrizwald
I have 10.5" wide wheels with 6 5/8 bs.  1.5" offset spring hangers. The 315's fit with a bit of space left over.
Based on my car, I would say a 345 could fit. May have to roll the lip a bit.

@rdf
Body and paint for a fish tank! You did alright there even if it's not a show winning paint job.  :clapping:
Thank you for the real world info! I tried to do my calculations based off other people's data but wasn't sure how it would end up.  Do you have and inch between the tire and the leaf spring? I figure the 345 is
1.2" wider than a 315 so .6 " tigher towards the leaf.  So you would need to be sitting with 1" inside space currently for a 1.5 relocation bracket to work for me. I calculated you probably have about .5" so I'd likely need a 2" relocation to make this work.  It's gonna be tight!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk


Wayne

Fun looking project your have! 

What diameter wheels do you have?  I don't think a 345 will even fit on a 10.5" wheel.    If you are going after optimizing handling performance I would try 295 or a 305 on 10.5" 
1970 Cuda 383 4spd red on red
Backyard Hotrods @ Youtube, Facebook & Instagram
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2bd5dyuOKCJT-kWhdEGm3A

ClarkWGrizwald

18" wheels. I already own a brand new set of MT et streets that I had for my viper. Since they are on the shelf, figured I'd try them on. I'll buy different tires if I must. The 275s I'm putting on the front 8.5" rims are also a bit big. But I have a new set sitting here so im gonna use em. It's a street driver so should be fine. For a track day I have other wheels and tires I can use off the mustang with some spacers.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk


rdf

No new progress to report unfortunately  :crying:  Living in Orlando, FL is a double-edged sword when it comes to "winter" weather and real life activities.  On one hand, the weather is absolutely gorgeous out and has been for a few weeks now.  This makes it ideal to work on the car without having to feel like I'm wrapped in a wet blanket from humidity like the summer months.  On the other hand, nicer weather means kid's have outdoor soccer 5x a week and all the holidays and traveling that go with that as well.  No excuses though, I'm still trying to press forward with anything I can do.....I finally found a nice B&M shifter with the base and cable for a great price so I picked that up and I've been making a running list of what still needs to be done to my car and what parts/things I need to order or get done.

I'm going to contact the guy who built my motor and see if he can give me a price to do some of the bigger items on my to-do list.  I don't have a ton of cash at the moment but I believe I have enough to get a few things done, mainly the items that are harder for me to do in my garage. 

I'm gonna post my list so y'all can see it and give me any advice you think would be helpful.  Also, I'm open for anyone who lives local, to pay for some help with these items so let me know if you live in the area and wanna help out  :)

If we never drown we'll never know how well it tastes...so tell me how it tastes and I'll know just how well you drowned.