1970 Challenger Convertible Boot Molding installation.

[jamesroney]

Help.

I am working on a 1970 Dodge Challenger Convertible with the Wide Belt Molding option.  There are 5 pieces of trim for the boot well.

The two pieces nearest the doors have two stud posts, with nuts.  There is a provision for a 3rd countersunk sheet metal screw...but the body is not drilled for that screw.

The next two pieces have six screws that attach from underneath.
The rearmost piece has clips that snap to the body lip.

What is the correct order to install these?  Do you attach the front pieces first, and include the additional sheet metal screw?
Or do you attach the front pieces LAST, and omit the screw?

These pieces were all plated polished in 1985, and are perfect.  So I only want to do this once.

Thanks in advance!

James.

[cudaize]

There is a provision for a 3rd countersunk sheet metal screw...but the body is not drilled for that screw.



James.

Some of my convertibles did not have these screw holes in the body either.  On my 71 Cuda convertibles, which have the longer diecast piece, I think I just stuck that end into the stainless and held it on with the other fasteners.  I don't remember what I did on my 70 Challenger that has the short pieces.

All this chrome is easiest to put on before the top and even the top irons if you have those out. Like anything else take your time and test fit.

1. Make sure the diecast pieces fit into the end of the stainless properly.  Sometimes the plater doesn't grind this down enough after putting layers of copper on.  On the convertible I'm doing right now I used the cast bronze pieces and I had to work one of them down a little bit to get it to fit in.

2. I lay the curved pieces in the body and make little marks on them with a marker where the screw holes on the body are for the clips.  Install the clips where your marks are.  Set on body and make sure you can start the screws, if the clips are close you can move them with an ice pick to get them to line up.  A mirror helps unless you are small and flexible enough to lay in the well area.  Make sure you have the proper low profile screws or they will protrude into the top.

3. The rear moulding is supposed have clips that grab around the metal. It gets tapped on, depending how tight your clips are is how much force in needed. Most times there are also holes there like for the side mouldings and I've heard of people using the screw type clips there because they are nervous about scratching the car when tapping the moulding on.  I've always used the clip on style here because I find it a pain to line up the screw type clips on the sides and don't care to do it on the back, also more screws is more of a possibility one of them will rub through the top.

4. Once you have everything test fitted I typically put all (3) of the stainless pieces together.  Tap on the rear moulding and then screw on the sides.  If you choose to use the countersunk screws on the diecast piece I don't believe this will work.  You would probably have to put the rear piece on first and slide the curved ones on both ends.  If doing this you want to make sure the rear moulding is where it needs to be as the clips hold pretty well and it is hard to move side to side.

5. Attach the diecast pieces.

6. I typically put duct seal over the screw heads on the side pieces.

[jamesroney]

Thank you Cudaize!!!

I followed your instructions, and managed to get the molding installed today.  I pre-positioned all of the clips, installed the rear piece first, then the side piece, then the front.

A mirror and an awl was the answer, along with a short stubby screwdriver

It worked great...thanks a ton.

[brcuda7t1]

Hi,  I have my original chrome and clips, but I cant find the screws.

can you tell me the size they are?

Thank you