Main Menu

Critical items to check/fit before final paint

Started by Challenger in NC, May 26, 2018, 07:44:13 AM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Challenger in NC

My car might be headed to a shop for some finish bodywork and paint in the next several months, after a 2 year standstill. I would like to make a checklist of items to do before any seam sealer/paint gets applied. Aside from the more obvious items like panel alignment, what would be some  of the mandatory things to do? I'm sure I will not be able to anticipate every item that needs to be done, but would like to be aware of the most common and troublesome ones. I would really hate to cut or weld something on the body after the car has been finished painted. I believe the entire bottom of the car will be finished in color with wheel wells undercoated in black.

Some of the items that come to mind:

1. Test fit windshield/rear glass and trim. I'm thinking about using the trim clips with sealed screws, but have heard others mention stud welding, pros/cons?
How much should windshield be spaced above the opening, should some space be left between frame and glass to account for adhesive? I would like to fully fit trim around glass before sending to shop. Is there a good thread or link to this procedure?

2. Have body gaskets and seals installed so shop can more accurately align panels.

3. Pre-fit items like headlight bezels, emblems, hood pins, trunk trim etc.  before sending to the shop to make sure shop addresses problem areas.

4. Check/replace door hinge bushings for proper door alignment.

5. Since car has had major panel replacement, are there any common holes/cuts that might be needed that would be preferable to do before paint? I had US Car sub-frame connectors installed and I'm aware that e-brake cable needs to be routed through the connector at an angle.

6. I am adding a T/A style rear sway bar and I doubt the frame holes are drilled.

7. Engine bay items? Brake/fuel line clip holes?

6. Other known items that should be pre-assembled, welded or drilled?

I am making a trip to the shop in a couple weeks to survey their operation and will try and discuss the major items.

Thanks
Chris




Cuda Cody

They are different drip rail molding holes for different years so if you are using a new or better set then came off of it I would test fit those.  Make sure to test install (use double face tape or just tape in place) the trunk seal.  It should have been on for all the body work sanding.  Also make sure to have the trunk springs on when doing the body work because they put pressure upward on the trunk lid and can change the way it fits.  I would also pre-sag (put weight in) the doors.  If you do not you'll be realigning the doors after paint and that sucks.  For what it's worth I do my hood blocking with the hinge springs on too.  If the trunk pan was replaced you might need to drill the exhaust hanging holes and other holes like the fuel ground wire.  Check to make sure you have all the holes welded up on your firewall.  Firewalls are a magnet for holes and a bunch of open holes on a finished car doesn't look great.

RUNCHARGER

Oh man: There are so many things to check. For example, make sure the rivnuts for the mirrors are installed before paint, are the jack and spare tire brackets welded in the correct spots?
My suggestion is if you have a friend with an assembled Challenger have him bring it up one Sunday and park it beside your shell and spend a lot of time looking them both over. Write everything on a few sheets of paper and check them off.
I guess the best thing to do is assemble the complete car in primer and then disassemble it but that takes a lot of time.
Sheldon


Rich G.

If you had the quarters replaced make sure that rear valance fits. My friends Cuda was so far off when he pulled it out of the first body shop. The second shop actually cut and fit the valance to the quarters. It was that or start over. Scary!

Cuda Cody

If the quarters have been replaced and you plan to use a flip top gas lid make sure to test fit it.

Challenger in NC

Thanks guys, all good things to check, definitely would not have thought about all of these.

I do need to get those rivnuts for the door mirrors, my passenger side has about 8 mirror holes in it and not one had a rivnut. The driver door is a new shell so those holes still need to be drilled.
Quarters were replaced so the rear valance will need checking and I would not have thought about testing the flip top gas lid.

Checked the firewall and inner fenders for the proper holes and I do have a couple that need filling. However, I am a bit torn on how far to take the re-assembly before paint since that will take a huge amount of time, but I do see the merits.

On a somewhat related topic, anyone know where to buy the square nut that mounts to the firewall for the steering? I'm missing one.

Cuda Cody

Junk yard or maybe you could call someone like @tony and he might have one laying around he sell you.

Quote from: Challenger in NC on May 26, 2018, 01:09:03 PM
On a somewhat related topic, anyone know where to buy the square nut that mounts to the firewall for the steering? I'm missing one.


RUNCHARGER

I make mine out of flatbar. The valance issue is a biggie that I had forgotten about.
Sheldon

Challenger in NC

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 26, 2018, 08:18:18 PM
I make mine out of flatbar. The valance issue is a biggie that I had forgotten about.

Yeah, If i cant find one, i'll see if i can make one.