Door Gap Issues

[floorit426]

Hi,

I know there is a similar topic out there, recently, but I did not want to hijack the thread. I changed out my driver's door hinges recently and am having a devil of a time getting the fore and aft gaps even(see pics). The door top needs to go forward 1/16", while the bottom needs to go forward 1/32". I have quite a few hours invested in this and this seems to be the best I can do.

In looking at the old hinge, it looks as if the shadow, from the factory setting had the hinge assembly as far forward, as possibel. I've owned this car 47 years and I know it's never been in an accident. Would removing the top hinge and enlarging the one side of the square holes. allow me to get this squared away?

Cars with uneven panel gaps drive me nuts and this is keeping me from driving the car. Please help me before I become unhinged!

[Rich G.]

I've spent days trying to line up door gaps!!! Yea looks like the back needs to go up. I'd open up the holes since they are not the original hinges.

[anlauto]

Out of curiosity, are you using original rebuilt hinges, or reproduction hinges ?

Years ago, I started using the "new" reproduction hinges that were hitting the market, mostly from AMD , after a few cars I started noticing a pattern where I could NOT get enough forward adjustment...got to the point where I started hogging out the holes...pain in the ass...
Then I found MoparLeo and his very affordable rebuilding service, and never looked back....Leo now rebuilds every door hinge on every car I restore, in fact he has a set right now 

[floorit426]

I'm not sure of the origin, of these hinges. My problem with sending them out was, since this is a put together and drivable car, I couldn't afford the down time. A visual comparison seemed okay, but I understand what you're saying. Honestly, I've never been real happy with the door gap, even with the original setup, but this is totally unacceptable. If I can't get an alignment I'm happy with, perhaps the answer is to send my originals to Leo.

[torredcuda]

Always get your door to quarter alignment correct first, adjust with striker removed.. It looks like the back of the door needs to go up slightly so just the top hinge needs to go forward, hog out the holes or get your original hinges rebiult. Then work on door to fender gap, sometimes you get the top gap good and have to manually pull the bottom forward while tightening the fender to rocker bolts to get the lower gap. If you are fighting for 1/32" accuracy you`ll drive yourself crazy on a car with factory tolerances of +/- 1/8".

[HP2]

Unless you are willing to  take the fenders and hood off and realign all the panels, or weld and refinish the edges and repaint the doors, you'll never get 1/32" clearance. Best you can do with just the door is split the difference of the gaps you have. If you are out of adjustment, then massaging the adjustment holes or relocating the threaded receiver are only options.

[torredcuda]

Unless you are willing to  take the fenders and hood off and realign all the panels, or weld and refinish the edges and repaint the doors, you'll never get 1/32" clearance. Best you can do with just the door is split the difference of the gaps you have. If you are out of adjustment, then massaging the adjustment holes or relocating the threaded receiver are only options.

The 1/32" I was referring to was the difference in the gap top to bottom, I usually shoot for around 3/16" +/- 1/16".

"The door top needs to go forward 1/16", while the bottom needs to go forward 1/32""

[RUNCHARGER]

You've probably got it done already but yes, just do a bit of filing or die grinding on the holes. I had to do the same to get the AMD doors to fit on my son's 68. If you had the time I'm sure Mopar Leo is the way to go and maybe you can find another set to send him. If you did the bushings these probably won't last as long as they should.

[floorit426]

After spending time fighting with mother nature, here in N.Ca., I finally have been able to refocus on this. I did enlarge the holes on the top hinge and was able to achieve an acceptable door gap. The problem now is that there is a binding issue when you go to close the door, about the last three inches. The door closes, but there is some slight resistance. Is it possible that the two hinges are not aligned with each other?

[anlauto]

I've never heard of that before, very odd

[MoparLeo]

The problem could be that when you modified the hinge holes that now the hinge pivot centerline is not parallel to the bottom hinge now. Generally if you have to modify the hinge, your problem is really elsewhere.
Try to loosen the upper hinge slightly and try to close the door again to see if it will shift enough to stop binding.

[anlauto]

I was thinking that, but the distance from each pin to the "door" and each pin to the "door post" shouldn't change by slotting the mounting holes

[jimynick]

"on a car with factory tolerances of +/- 1/8""     My car, from the factory, had a gap beneath the drivers door that I could stick my whole fingers between it and the rocker! To your point, I would not be surprised at all, if your moving the door ahead as mentioned, has caused the weatherstrip to prematurely contact the hinge pillar. Sometimes you have to bend the door using a short piece of 2x4 and a long piece of 2x4 at the back end to prevent damaging the door while still achieving a desired fit. The only other option would be, as described, to refit the frt fndr/hood/header panel (Plymouth) and that's even more of a PITA! Good luck either way! 

[torredcuda]

How is the in/out adjustment along the front edge? If it is too tight there your gasket might be causing the binding s there is not enough room for it.

[floorit426]

That may very well be the case. I will have to check it out. The door seems to be on the nearly the same plane, as the fender, as far as the in/out adjustment goes.