Dynacorn Body Shell

[kdcarman]

"The owner of the black Cuda is on here, he may chime in as to the quality of his black beauty."

Owner of the black Cuda here!  I can attest to the quality of metal, body and paint work done by Alan.  Even though he "outsourced" the paint and body work - he owned the final product and deliverable.  I have had the car out on a number of occasions, the reaction to the car is quite incredible.  A car night does not go by without multiple people commenting the car is best in show. Also, multiple body/paint guys have come over and looked at the car and made positive comments about the quality of the finished body and paint work.

As Cody says, there are multiple paths to same destination (good or bad).

I can also say Alan was great to work with - down to earth, great communicator and no ego.   

[70 Challenger Lover]

I just put a roof skin on my RT and it fit pretty snug all around but dynacorn put all these pieces together in their jig. I suppose it could be a tad off at the bottom and the top and then you combine that with the inaccuracies of the individually stamped pieces. There is a solution to every problem. You might ask you metal shop what they think about the problem. They might see something we are not.

[Blake129]

I just put a roof skin on my RT and it fit pretty snug all around but dynacorn put all these pieces together in their jig. I suppose it could be a tad off at the bottom and the top and then you combine that with the inaccuracies of the individually stamped pieces. There is a solution to every problem. You might ask you metal shop what they think about the problem. They might see something we are not.

They think the driver side of the filler needs to be brought up a tad


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[70 Challenger Lover]

Was that part of their original 100 hour quote or is this newly discovered issue? There probably will be a few things like this along the way and my guess is your shop gave you the estimate expecting a few setbacks like this. Might be an aggregation now but in the end, you are going to have a new car for all intensive purposes. Older cars like mine always have a bit of old surface rust on areas that can't be reached. You won't ever have that issue!

[anlauto]

Blake129 I would start measuring the trunk opening and the rear window opening to see if the issue is with the location of the filler panel or the actual size of the filler panel. By that I mean is the filler wider on one end ?

...I would agree with Challenger Lover that if there is going to be all kinds of fitment issues with the main structure like that, then I could see the hours adding up. A lot more involved when welded on panels have to be removed and adjusted.

One bonus....you're still WAY ahead of where you would be restoring a rusty basket case !

[Blake129]

Were gonna do some more measuring before anything gets started. I'm gonna bring the glass in and take measurements of the deck filler as well. We haven't bolted up the fenders yet so that might be a surprise waiting too. I also noticed this imperfection at the top in the driver door that I believe a simple gap alignment won't address.


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[anlauto]

Yup..that one there is pretty typical with the Dynacorn panels. I've only used the doors before...not so much on the AMD outer skins.

[Cuda Cody]

That's an easy fix at the top of the door.     Very common and pretty easy to fix that.  Your body shop will take care of that without any trouble at all.

[Blake129]

Heres a video walk thru of the body shell for those interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJ6GLCtPCgI

[anlauto]

Heres a video walk thru of the body shell for those interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJ6GLCtPCgI

It amazes me that these things never took off and sold like hot cakes    Think of all those resto mod builds you could do...

[Blake129]

Heres a video walk thru of the body shell for those interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJ6GLCtPCgI

It amazes me that these things never took off and sold like hot cakes    Think of all those resto mod builds you could do...

The price is the draw back. I'd say it's only appealing to those like me with a car that needs its entire skin replaced and then some.

[anlauto]

When they were announced the price was around $17K ? I think...is that still pretty much the cost ?

[Blake129]

17,500 with the fenders


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[70 Challenger Lover]

If I were you, I'd get a wheel kit so you can roll the body around, then bring it home for a little figment work that just about anyone could do on their own.

The original shell will fit every part you have perfectly as long as it isn't twisted up but you cannot be 100% certain of the replacement shell. Since you have your original car with all it's original pieces, I'd put the cars side by side and systematically test fit every little part that will someday go onto the new body. Sounds like a lot of work but it shouldn't be that bad. If there are fitment issues in other areas, there will probably be more but many of them can be dealt with by you at home. Those you cannot, make a list of them so when you go back to your metal guy, you can have a detailed conversation about the little things you found that need fixing.

Imagine how pissed off you will be when you pay someone to put in a new headliner after it's painted and later when you go to screw in the front and rear window trim, you find the little tabs are all off 1/4." Or you go to put in your dash frame only to find the mounting tabs are a little off. You can save yourself an enormous amount of future aggregation by test fitting all these pieces before you start the paint and body work. Most everything will probably be fine but now is the time to know about these irritating little fitment issues. Most people focus on exterior body stuff and don't give these little things much attention. And understandably so since they are working with an original shell. You can't really take any of this for granted and if you spend a month doing it at home, it's only time lost.

I'd check window mechanisms and glass, door latches, windshield and rear window fitment, window whisker weatherstrips along the door, heater box, pedal set, console brackets, rear seat placement, door panels, dash frame, front and rear interior window headliner trim, and so on. If it attaches to the new body, I'd test fit it just for peace of mind. Easy fixes now but potential nightmare after the car is painted.

[Blake129]

If I were you, I'd get a wheel kit so you can roll the body around, then bring it home for a little figment work that just about anyone could do on their own.

The original shell will fit every part you have perfectly as long as it isn't twisted up but you cannot be 100% certain of the replacement shell. Since you have your original car with all it's original pieces, I'd put the cars side by side and systematically test fit every little part that will someday go onto the new body. Sounds like a lot of work but it shouldn't be that bad. If there are fitment issues in other areas, there will probably be more but many of them can be dealt with by you at home. Those you cannot, make a list of them so when you go back to your metal guy, you can have a detailed conversation about the little things you found that need fixing.

Imagine how pissed off you will be when you pay someone to put in a new headliner after it's painted and later when you go to screw in the front and rear window trim, you find the little tabs are all off 1/4." Or you go to put in your dash frame only to find the mounting tabs are a little off. You can save yourself an enormous amount of future aggregation by test fitting all these pieces before you start the paint and body work. Most everything will probably be fine but now is the time to know about these irritating little fitment issues. Most people focus on exterior body stuff and don't give these little things much attention. And understandably so since they are working with an original shell. You can't really take any of this for granted and if you spend a month doing it at home, it's only time lost.

I'd check window mechanisms and glass, door latches, windshield and rear window fitment, window whisker weatherstrips along the door, heater box, pedal set, console brackets, rear seat placement, door panels, dash frame, front and rear interior window headliner trim, and so on. If it attaches to the new body, I'd test fit it just for peace of mind. Easy fixes now but potential nightmare after the car is painted.

You just summed up my fears.



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