fiberglass and bondo question

[cuda hunter]

I have some coronet R/T scoops that are fiberglass.
they have had the R/T inset insignia filled with bondo.

How do I remove the bondo?
how do I remove the paint from the fiberglass?   

I have two right hand scoops. would like to find a left hand scoop. 

anyone know where to find the little white rubber cushions and the special nut? 

[cuda hunter]

Ok, I can't find parts number     

3446052
42203A
40-2655 6B-1

any help out there? 
I think it's a  70 coronet r/t  but can't find part number or picture of this scoop.

[anlauto]

Is it just the pictures, or is one smaller then the other ? You could likely remove the bondo pretty quick with a small torch or carefully scrape it out.

[torredcuda]

Some paint strippers will soften body filler but they have changed a lot due to EPA/health issues so not sure if newer ones will still work. I would get a small can of fiberglass safe stripper and try it.

[anlauto]

Does bondo stick better or worse to fiberglass then steel ?  I guess it also depends on what they did to prep the fiberglass, hopefully not destroy the R/T area..

[cuda hunter]

I'm not sure what they did to prep the fiberglass before bondo. Probably nothing.
These came off the same super bee that had my wing on it.   

I"ll go to the car stores today and see if I can find some fiberglass safe stripper.  Try that first. 

They are both the same size. Must be the picture angle.  Both the same side and part number.  I'm trying to find a drivers side.

[6bblgt]

they are not exactly fiberglass - they are PIM (Plastic Injection Molding), RPIM (Reinforced Plastic Injection Molding) or some other similar acronym
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_moulding

it is the same material SHAKER bubbles are made of (RAMCHARGER/340 Swinger hood scoops, '70 Charger R/T door scoops, '71-'72 AIRGRABBER hood inserts, etc.)
they have the texture/structure of fiberglass reinforced drywall

you will have to see what affects the bondo without damaging the part & scrape out the filler  been there, done that

the part number on cast and molded parts are usually NOT the number in a parts catalog - the number is changed once the part is modified/machined or sold as an assembly with clip/screws attached (or chromed & painted in the case of mouldings/emblems)

1970 Coronet R/T:
ORNAMENT, Qtr Outside Louver (23-34-334) # 3446 052 / 3446 053
Nut # 9420 218
NAME PLATE, Qtr, Outside Ornament (23-34-238) # 3445 919 (same as used on 1970 Charger R/T door scoop)

[cuda hunter]

That makes sense as to why I can't find the part number reference anywhere.

[JS29]

@cuda hunter  There is a stripper made for modern bumper covers, Try that. 

[cuda hunter]

I looked everywhere in town and all I can find is this new formula that does not include methyl chloride.  Everyone says it really sucks and will not take the multiple layers of lacquer paint or bondo off of these scoops.

Can anyone tell me different?  I don't want to waste 25 bucks to get a product that everyone says won't work. 

[Racer57]

Why not just sand it ?

[6bblgt]

I don't think paint stripper is the answer it usually does nothing to bondo - you are just going to have to chisel it out & if it didn't adhere well to the paint, evidenced by the "R/T" crack out-line, maybe you'll be lucky and it will "pop" out as a large piece(s) - maybe with some encouragement from the backside where the emblem mounting holes are

I'd try some soap & water or maybe some WD-40 to creep into the existing crack/separation (think "mold release")  -  don't try to flex the part, it's pretty rigid & will crack

[JS29]

They say (bondo) body filler absorbs water, plastic part wont rust. Maybe soak it in water, it might act as a releasing agent.    

[cuda hunter]

Why not just sand it ?

Last resort. 

[Bullitt-]

I'd think a Dremel with wire wheel would get the job done...