How to paint a Show Car finish

[Cuda Cody]

Have you ever wanted to know how to paint the ultimate mirror like finish on your car?  Do you want to go to a car show and have people be amazed by your vehicle?  Here's the steps that can be done to achieve a high end show paint job.  These are very detailed steps and tips & tricks for getting that paint job that we all dream about.

I know there is always more then one way to do things so please feel free to comment and share other tips or tricks you might know to accomplish high quality paint jobs.  Since I know  @Shane Kelley  does good work I asked him to proof read it and he gave me some good tips that I have already added to the article.  Thank you for your help Shane.   

https://www.e-bodies.org/how-to-paint-a-show-car-step-by-step-guide/

[Shane Kelley]

Outstanding write up! 

[anlauto]

Well written

[Cuda Cody]

There's been a few questions on Facebook and I've linked to this thread so I can refer back to it in the future.  One question was about the grit before flow coating.  If you have 3 good coats of clear you can use 600 pretty safely.  But if you can get the clear perfectly flat with 800 or 1000 those will work too.  You just need to block the clear perfectly flat and that should not be too hard if you block the car straight before you painted it.

I made my own cast acrylic sanding blocks that are straight as glass and very hard.  The blocks I made work well for me on the large open areas.  I use the normal sanding Dura Blocks in some of the harder to reach areas.   I block sand my clear with 600 or 800 and I use a guide coat because I find that easier for me.  There are a lot of pros that do not use guide coat on the clear and they put out wonderful work.  The clear will look very dull after your cut it with 600 or 800.

[Gary]

Excellent article,  One tip our PPG rep told us is to always check the quality of the E coat on new panels, wipe a spot with lacquer thinner and if it softens the E coat take it all off. If the thinner doesn't take the E coat off, you're good to go.  We always scuff it before we epoxy prime.

[Cuda Cody]

That's a great tip. 

Excellent article,  One tip our PPG rep told us is to always check the quality of the E coat on new panels, wipe a spot with lacquer thinner and if it softens the E coat take it all off. If the thinner doesn't take the E coat off, you're good to go.  We always scuff it before we epoxy prime.

[RUNCHARGER]

Excellent article. Sanding Grit is always something I found magazine articles glossed over too quickly.

[J-Code Jeni]

Great article, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and help others make beautiful cars too!

[GCragtop]

GREAT article!

[moparcar]

Excellent write up! Thanks so much for doing that!
Wes

[Moparman82]

Cody you blow my mind, you are really going above and beyond to make sure this site has everything! 

[oldmoparbuff]

Thanks Cody. I will be using this info as I plan on doing my own paint.

[Rich G.]

Another great explanation of your technique. Thanks. If you could go over your air pressure set up for your gun that would also help. Many different techniques on this an a bit confusing since most companies talk about pressure at the cap with no way to check it without a specific tool. I know you have the pressure coming out of the regulator and then the pressure drop that we can measure at the gun. Using an HVLP gun what's your recommendation when the trigger is pulled?

[Cuda Cody]

@Rich G.  I use a SataJet 3000 RP.  It's different then a HVLP in that it will lay down a lot more material with lower pressure at a faster rate.  The RP stands for Reduced Pressure.  It's the best all around gun I have ever used.  If you are only going to buy 1 spray gun in your life, get a SataJet 3000 RP with a 1.3 tip.  You can pretty much do anything that that set up.  It's amazing with clear coats and pretty much can spray anything I want at a high end level.  They do not make the 3000 RP any more so you might have to look for a used one if you want one.  The SataJet 4000 RP was not as good as the 3000 RP IMO.  I do not have enough time with the new 5000 RP to really know if it's better or worse.  If I was going to get a base coat only gun I might look at the an Iwata.  But I've been so spoiled with the SataJet 3000 RP I doubt I will ever reach for any other gun.  The SataJet 3000 is that good.

As for pressure, I use the SataJet 3000 RP with a digital built in gauge.  I like to run about 23 to 24 at the digital gauge with the size of my air compressor.  But I will change PSI depending on what material I am shooting.  The 3000 RP will shoot even lower and I hear some people taking it up to 30 to 35 psi. 

Another great explanation of your technique. Thanks. If you could go over your air pressure set up for your gun that would also help. Many different techniques on this an a bit confusing since most companies talk about pressure at the cap with no way to check it without a specific tool. I know you have the pressure coming out of the regulator and then the pressure drop that we can measure at the gun. Using an HVLP gun what's your recommendation when the trigger is pulled?

[HP_Cuda]

How ironic. Just got my final paint done.

There were several areas which during shipping got damaged so even if I covered the entire car in a rubber cocoon during assembly I would still have to do touch up.

Cut and buff and she should be home in about 2 weeks!