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How to paint a Show Car finish

Started by Cuda Cody, August 11, 2017, 11:43:25 AM

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Cuda Cody

I like the Sikkens line of paints a lot too.  We use them daily at my company.  Very high quality paint and a brand you can trust.

moparcar

Cody,
Thanks for the single stage black info. Really appreciated!

Wes

JS29

You can and  I have done the flow coat thing with single stage. 3 coats paint wet sand it 2 more coat's and done. didn't even need to buff it.


rftroy

Cody,
My Challenger is ready to go to media blast.  It is on a rotisserie. 

At what point, and how, do you paint the underside and the interior?
Do you put the car back on the rotisserie to paint the underside?
Do you use the same basecoat/clearcoat on the interior that you use on the exterior?

Since I can only put in time on weekends for my project, 7 days will easily go by between the time the interior and underside are epoxy primed and when they are ready to be coated.  The thought of having to scuff the DP under the car with all the nook and crannies and bends in the metal isn't pleasant.  Plus, PPG recommends then re-coating with DP before topcoating.  I plan to paint the underside black, possibly with Rick Kreuziger's dip primer color, (It's an LA car) and then the interior car color.  But I could paint the inside of the roof panel black at the same time as the underside.

Can you think of any issue with media blasting the car, going directly to the paint booth and spraying DP, and then painting the underside with primer simulant after the DP hits the topcoat time?
There will be metalwork done after this: replacement trunk extensions, one outer wheel well, and a partial driver's front floor pan.  My thinking is that it will be easier and take much less time to coat those sections separately after they are replaced.

Robert
70 Challenger. On rotisserie. 505, Six Pack, 5SR A-855 5-speed, 3.55, B7 blue;
AAR, 4-speed, 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner, 4-speed, 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv, 383, 4-speed, 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv, Slant 6, OD4, 2.94, 71 B5 blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red

Cuda Cody

@rftroy  there's a lot going on with your question.  I'll PM you my cell and we can chat later this week.

rftroy

70 Challenger. On rotisserie. 505, Six Pack, 5SR A-855 5-speed, 3.55, B7 blue;
AAR, 4-speed, 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner, 4-speed, 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv, 383, 4-speed, 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv, Slant 6, OD4, 2.94, 71 B5 blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red

moparcar

I keep re-reading this info as it is so good! (please sticky this to the top!) Thanks Cody! @Cuda Cody. I realize your show quality paint it about that, undercoats and paint. What do you use for the quarter to roof seam for filler so it doesn't telegraph through especially if black paint?

Thanks again, Wes


Cuda Cody

Lead.  Just like the factory.  But I think the lead today is lead free.  ;)  Eastwood makes some good products for leading.

Quote from: MoparCar on October 15, 2017, 05:26:20 PM
What do you use for the quarter to roof seam for filler so it doesn't telegraph through especially if black paint?

Thanks again, Wes

Cuda Cody

Thank you @MoparCar  for the nice comment.  I try not to sticky my own posts.  Doesn't feel right.

Quote from: MoparCar on October 15, 2017, 05:26:20 PM
I keep re-reading this info as it is so good! (please sticky this to the top!)

moparcar

Thanks @Cuda Cody for the leading info. I pretty much so figured as high end of work you do and this is the one place it seems to crack or telegraph in the sun even with long strand or alloy filler.
Lead it will be.

Appreciate the insight. Wes

BFM_Cuda

This is a very interesting post. Thanks Cody and everyone who provided input...    :cheers:


HR738


HEMICUDA

You're DA MAN Cody, I don't think people realize why it is so expensive to do that kind of work.  It's not only the needed talent, the hours it takes for that level is huge.  BTW, I have the same Pro Spot spot welder you have, can't live without it.