Minor Shaker Question I think With Pics

[1 Wild R/T]

is engine square? choke blade/air horn doesn't look parallel with cowl - place a level across the valve covers

This... Except cut a piece of wood to lay across the bolt flanges of the fenders & measure down to each valve cover....  You say its only the rear corner but clearly the front is low on the passenger side too... 

It's worse in the rear because your trans hangs to low like all the Tremec conversions when people avoid cutting the floor...

Get the engine a little closer to level side to side & tweak the air cleaner front to back...

[Brads70]

Wouldn't cost much to make a 1/8" shim , loosen the motor mount and try that?  Square 1/8" plate the size of the rubber, drill a hole and then with a hacksaw/jigsaw cut a slot so you end up with a u shaped shim, loosen mount, jack up engine, then slide it in. If it doesn't work your out a dollar or so. 

[Daveh]

I didn't avoid cutting the floor.  In fact I did cut the floor out and burned in a new 4 speed hump to clear the trans.  Remember from my original post that my driveline angles were spot on and I'm not sure I want to mess with them. 

[1 Wild R/T]

Throw a 2x4 across the fender bolt flanges & measure to the valve covers....

[Daveh]

I put a level across the fenders and the bubble was dead center however the passenger side of the engine was about 1/4" lower than the drivers side.

I like the shimming the motor mount idea but I don't really have much room to do that.  I used a grade 8 lock nut with a flat washer on the motor mount bolt and that only leaves me 2-3 threads remaining.  I guess I could go with a regular nut which is shallower but then I would need a lock washer so still the same outcome.   

[1 Wild R/T]

Loctite is your friend.. Also the passenger side mount is always under compression except when the car is in reverse.... Drivers side mount is under tension when you accelerate in a forward gear...

[Daveh]

Ok Ill fab up a plate the size of the rubber and put it on top of the rubber isolator then bolt it down. 

[YellowThumper]

Here is the pic with the level on the valve covers.  I put a smaller level across the base plate with the same results. It's a hair off center not even a 1/16" barely noticeable.  I verified that the tires were inflated properly and I measured from the floor to the wheel lip and they are all the same. 

So what's next?????   

I also agree the carb looks tilted in comparison to firewall top edge.
As a comparison I would also check level to the fender top edges. This takes the floor and wheel opening out of equation. I added solid mounts to mine. To check level I placed a bar spanning the engine compartment. It rested on inside of fender lip where it bolts on. Then I measured from it to the valve covers. No levels just measurements.

Good luck

[6bblgt]

it's possible you could loosen all the motor mount bolts (engine & K-frame) and manipulate the engine's position with out adding a spacer

[1 Wild R/T]

it's possible you could loosen all the motor mount bolts (engine & K-frame) and manipulate the engine's position with out adding a spacer

I agree, there is allot of movement available by just loosening the two motor mount to K member bolts..... Most folks just drop it together & they are happy when all the bolts go in.... But there is room to adjust... Heck, just loosen those two bolts a couple turns, fire up the engine, set the parking brake hard, put the car in reverse & give it a little throttle & slip the clutch a little... Shut it off & recheck how the engine is sitting....  Probably high on the passenger side... But now you know if it's in the range of adjustability...

As long as the through bolts are still in the mounts the engine can shift but it can't really go anywhere...

[HEMICUDA]

it's possible you could loosen all the motor mount bolts (engine & K-frame) and manipulate the engine's position with out adding a spacer

You are correct Danny.  Loosen the motor mounts and jack up the passenger side.

[Daveh]

Then that's what I will try and keep you all posted.  Thanks

[RUNCHARGER]

I forgot about that as well. It won't take much at the motor mount to affect the shaker quite a bit. I generally loosen both through bolts and then hook a chain to the low side and lift with an engine hoist.

[Daveh]

OK I have it fixed I'd say 95%.     And I'm great with that.  Here's what I did.  Since I didn't have the luxury of starting the car since I still have to put the intake on.  I loosened up the motor mount bolts.  What a PIA with the engine and accessories installed then I gently put the cherry picker on the engine side that needed to be raised (Passenger) and put a nylon strap around the motor mount and pulled up and left it hanging there for an hour.  NOTE: Having a car running with the vibration would have been good but there was no way to do that. 

So after an hour I went back and tightened up the drivers side then the passenger side.  Again a PIA.  then let the hoist down and the level across the valve covers was exactly in the middle.  I installed the baseplate and bubble and everything lined up great.  It wasn't a lot but it made a huge difference in the way the baseplate and bubble lined up.

Thanks all for all of your suggestions.  I'm glad I didn't go hacking everything up and thought it through with your help. 

Dave

[YellowThumper]

Glad it is working out and this great site came thru.

Mike.