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Moving a shock tower

Started by 70 Challenger Lover, January 18, 2019, 02:49:33 PM

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70 Challenger Lover

I hit a snag on getting the front end back together on my 70 R/T. It had some front end damage and I've been getting everything back where it should be. My front frame rails are now repaired and everything measures out within factory specs. Except....

Today, I was fitting the inner fenders and radiator support when I discovered something I hadn't noticed before. When I lined up the new inner panel on the driver side, I found that it didn't drop in nicely like the passenger side did. It appears that during the crash, the shock tower must have rotated inward a couple degrees. I never thought to measure this out before because the towers looked great and still had clean factory paint on them with no wrinkles or distortion. In fact, the car came to me aligned so it couldn't be that far off. With a new panel though, it becomes obvious and I have no intention of warping it into place and leaving it like that.

I took measurements from a straight car and it is rotated inward a couple degrees. I even dropped plumb lines down and those measurements verified the driver tower needs to come out a couple degrees. It's a shame because to the naked eye, everything looks great and all the other metal lines up perfectly.

So is it possible to rotate it out a couple degrees using brute force? I know there is quite a bit of weld points at the frame rail and my instincts are telling me this is wishful thinking. I'm hoping some creative person here can give me an idea on how to do it without cutting all the welds out and repositioning it. To do that means removing the drive train and then I'm not far from a full restoration turning point.

JS29

With out seeing it for my self, I am thinking portapower. or big bolt through the mounting for the upper control arm and a strategic pull on a frame machine.    :alan2cents:

anlauto

I think it will move fairly easy :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


70 Challenger Lover

Been mulling it over and I figure it doesn't hurt to try and move it first before yanking the engine and cutting it loose. If it doesn't move, I've really lost nothing but time.

I've been thinking that a strategic pull might just get it done. I will have to remove the wheel and unbolt the upper control arm either way. Then I could make a three leg brace with spare metal to anchor against the rail and give me a pull point.