Newoob Here. Starting the journey with Slick Sand

[72and86]

1970 'Cuda. The paint is stripped and I have 1 coat of Raptor Upon Epoxy primer on it. I broke down and bought Overcoat Slick Sand Polyester primer. I started to scuff the epoxy primer but a few high spots started to come through so I went from 180 grit to Maroon Scotch-Brite (est. 320 grit). My old school buddy says to tap down the high spots (size of a quarter) or they'll just keep coming through and do the bondo filler step first, then poly primer. Think he missed the point of the Slick Sand. I stopped cause Im not sure how to proceed and at $200 a gallon I don't want to mess this up. It was epoxy primed 48 hrs ago. Any advice is appreciated.

[torredcuda]

I use polyester primer for a thick build up to block sand AFTER doing any needed metal and body filler work. You shouldn`t be taking a hammer to any high spots once you are in the high build stage, that should have been addressed at the metal and filler stage.

[72and86]

I use polyester primer for a thick build up to block sand AFTER doing any needed metal and body filler work. You shouldn`t be taking a hammer to any high spots once you are in the high build stage, that should have been addressed at the metal and filler stage.

My understanding is, that Slick Sand is unlike other high build /polyester primers. Have you used SS specifically? thx

[Cudajason]

I use polyester primer for a thick build up to block sand AFTER doing any needed metal and body filler work. You shouldn`t be taking a hammer to any high spots once you are in the high build stage, that should have been addressed at the metal and filler stage.

My understanding is, that Slick Sand is unlike other high build /polyester primers. Have you used SS specifically? thx

extra high-build polyester based primer is pretty much all the same.  @torredcuda knows what he is doing, I would also agree you want to address any high spots, meatal work or filler work ahead of applying high build primmer.  High build primer is designed for you final blocking stage. 

Also 180 grit on one coat of primer MAY be a bit aggressive.  I would have started with 320.  I would suggest respraying the epoxy primer and blocking the whole car first.   

[torredcuda]

I have used a few different brands of high build polyester primer and they are all pretty much the same. I usually put at least 2 coats of epoxy down and sand with 120 if using filler but only sand if needed (past the re-coat window) for high build primer with 320-400. It all depends on how bad the high spots are - the polyester primer may build up enough to smooth them out. 

[Xghobo]

Step one epoxy done! Next step scotchbrite then bondo and sanding then spray poly and more blocking than a sealer and ready for paint. To best of my knowledge all the spray polys a very similar so at what step it should be used should be the same

[72and86]

Step one epoxy done! Next step scotchbrite then bondo and sanding then spray poly and more blocking than a sealer and ready for paint. To best of my knowledge all the spray polys a very similar so at what step it should be used should be the same

Which sealer do you recommend?

[Xghobo]

[/quote] Which sealer do you recommend?
[/quote]

Whatever sealer that your top coat manufacture recommends

[torredcuda]

Some epoxy primers can be thinned a bit and also used as a sealer saving you from buying a different product, not sure about the Raptor as the TDS has no mention of using it as a sealer.