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Prepping new door hinges for PPG primer/sealer

Started by 7E-Bodies, September 08, 2019, 11:58:08 AM

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7E-Bodies

Does anyone have experience with preparing new door hinges for primer? Too intricate to sand upon, and I know better than to sandblast.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

anlauto

#1
If you want them in bare metal instead of their current cad plating...about 45 seconds submerged in straight store bought Muriatic acid will do the job. Then wash thoroughly and prime. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

7E-Bodies

Pure muratic typically isn't available to the public at 99% concentrations (HCL). I've worked with it. Its Bad stuff. I'm thinking you mean the muratic from the home centers and pool supplies places that's 32%, or so... correct?  Because I'm liking your idea.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


anlauto

Quote from: 7E-Bodies on September 08, 2019, 02:58:54 PM
Pure muratic typically isn't available to the public at 99% concentrations (HCL). I've worked with it. Its Bad stuff. I'm thinking you mean the muratic from the home centers and pool supplies places that's 32%, or so... correct?  Because I'm liking your idea.

YES, sorry I failed chemistry in high school.....what I meant was the same stuff I put in my pool, but don't cut it with water....you can, but it would slow the process down.
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

7E-Bodies

Then I'll plan to hit them wi SX579 bare metal prep, then SX330 bare metal prep, and then epoxy primer. Sound correct?
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

70 Challenger Lover

Make sure your epoxy primer is compatible with the metal prep. Mine specifically said not to put it over anything acidic based which many of those preps are. My epoxy sealer also recommended putting it on bare steel. Worked for me so far but I guess the true test comes from seeing it hold up over the years.

I think I'd sand them by hand or scotchbrite if they are really rough and wipe them clean with a wax/grease remover prior to sealing just to get all the oily fingerprints off.

The other thing to consider with your epoxy sealer...they typically recommend top coating within 24 hours or so. If you don't, it cures very hard and you then have to scuff it up really good when you do topcoat.