Quarter skin question

[fireguyfire]

I've stripped most of the paint off of my 73 challenger prepping it to go back into factory paint.
I knew there had been a passenger side quarter skin panel repair done a long time ago on the car; from the inside of the trunk it looked fairly poorly done, so I wasn't surprised when I got the paint off that it is a pretty amateur job.
My plan is to replace the right quarter skin again doing it properly, making the seam just below the gas fill opening, above the body line.
My question is the age old one regarding suggestions whether I should butt weld, flange weld, or flange and panel bond the repair.
I have done flange repairs in the past but I know about the concern about moisture getting between the flange and wrecking my paint job in the future.
I know a lot of guys are now panel bonding flange repair skins with the idea that there is no way that moisture can even get between the metal panels.

Looking for opinions from the high end body and paint guys here on the forum which way I should go with the repair!

[Moprr]

I would replace it with a full quarter at the factory seams no need to weld or bond the entire length of the quarter.

[Cuda Cody]

IMO, nothing beats a quality butt weld.  If it was me, I would most likely just replace the quarter with a full panel.  But if you can get a good butt weld in there that would be just as good to.

[RUNCHARGER]

Butt weld.

[soundcontrol]

Agree with all, replace the whole thing or buttweld. I'm doing skins on mine, convertible so there in no replace option, gotta use skins. Mine was already replaced above the body line, badly welded, tons of bondo, and already started to rust from the inside (just in 3-4 years). I'm doing a buttweld about 3/4" under the top edge. I'm also going to TIG weld it using a copper backplate and a heat absorbing paste right under the weld.

[7E-Bodies]

I'm currently replacing both quarters on my 70 Challenger. They had been bead rolled and welded at the body line, admittedly by the last owner of 20+ years. His excuse was in the 90s, there was no repop quarters and OEM was long gone. His only choice was to find good lowers to splice in. I've cut them out and lined up AMD quarters at the factory joints and am much happier. I've found some little trouble spots that would've come back to haunt me later. There was some very thick filler spots that'll be gone also. This being said, I move for total replacement at the factory joints, then lead at the sail panel and rocker joint.

[7E-Bodies]

I'm currently replacing both quarters on my 70 Challenger. They had been bead rolled and welded at the body line, admittedly by the last owner of 20+ years. His excuse was in the 90s, there was no repop quarters and OEM was long gone. His only choice was to find good lowers to splice in. I've cut them out and lined up AMD quarters at the factory joints and am much happier. I've found some little trouble spots that would've come back to haunt me later. There was some very thick filler spots that'll be gone also. This being said, I move for total replacement at the factory joints, then lead at the sail panel and rocker joint. I never plan to sell, but if I did, the next owner will never be disappointed.

[fireguyfire]

How do you guys go about removing the old lead from the seams?
On my 68 charger I didn't put lead back; I used a metal filler and it has held up very well.

[Cuda Cody]

A little heat (not much and it will come right out) and a good mask to protect your lungs.  Wire wheel it super clean when you are done.  Once the panel is replaced, you can replace the lead or put whatever you want in there. 

Even if I don't replace a quarter panel, I always replace all the lead when I do a restoration.

How do you guys go about removing the old lead from the seams?
On my 68 charger I didn't put lead back; I used a metal filler and it has held up very well.

[fireguyfire]

Thanks Cody; great info.
I've always used AMD panels in the past but have access to a Dynacorn one locally.
Is Dynacorn replacement metal any good?

[7E-Bodies]

When removing old lead, safety is an absolute must. Number one is NEVER INHALE LEAD FUMES. I not only wear a lead rated respirator, but I've rigged an exhaust mechanism from a 4" 120 volt squirrel cage fan from Grainger with 25' of flexible  4" dryer vent held above the lead joint with a magnet and exhausting outside. Secondly is burns. It flows like water. I use a foil turkey pan cut and formed like a gutter and duct tape it 6" or so below the joint. I learned long ago what an ounce or two of molten lead feels like in the tongue of a boot. Face shield is a must because your wire brush can send molten lead into your eyes. Lastly...have I indicated well enough that lead fumes will screw you up? It attacks the nervous system. Prepping the job, one hour. Lead removal, 10 minutes. Even when sanding later, there is microscopic dust. Treat it like its your worst enemy. Because it can be.

[aussiemark]

I'm not high end by any stretch of imagination but I use a blow torch and just enough heat to get the lead to a plastic state then scrape the bulk of it out then wire brush the rest while still applying the torch as long as the lead doesn't boil it is reasonably safe but wear a respirator mask just to be sure. I agree with fitting full quarter panels it will be a lot easier and the result be a lot better less welding = less Bondo and less labour plus it will look original when you look around inside the trunk.