sand and re-spray of clear

[GoMangoBoys]

After inspecting the dry car, I felt that I really needed to sand the clear down some and re-spray it.  I had some very bad orange peel and I had some areas where I had very rough texture on the clear.  I did not have enough clear yesterday for a 3rd coat, so I only have 2 coats on.  I took some photos of some of the bad areas to the store where I buy my paint (Nason).  I discussed it with them and determined that my gun pressure was too low.  I also think that I had some areas where I was careless in letting overspray get onto areas that were not wet enough still.  I may have also had the gun too far away at times.
So, with that said, I am currently sanding the clear with 1000 grit in preparation for 2 more coats. 
I have some questions.
1.  As I sand down the orange peel and texture, is it OK if there are still some areas where there is just a fine bit of pitting in the clear that is not sanded out?  It feels smooth to the touch, but small specs of shinny spots are still just visible.  I am unsure if the next coat of clear will fill that in and have a smooth surface.

2.  Is 1000 grip an OK grit to finish with before spraying 2 more coats of clear, or should I go over it all with 1500 once I am done with the 1000?

Maybe I could have gotten away with not doing this sand and re-spray, but I feel like it is a small thing to get it right in the end. I did not want to just spray more clear and THEN sand, because there was some fine dirt in the paint that I knew would come right out when I sand and buff, but not if I spray more clear over it.
Thanks.

[7E-Bodies]

Since I'm 6 months or so behind you with a BCCC, I'll be following this thread.

[6pack]

I just commented on your other thread you may want to take a look.  1000 grit is good but the coat may not get a good enough grip and not last.  I would go lower say 600.  You can end up with a really nice finish sanding then applying more coats.  Like I suggested in the other thread, just pay and get it cut and buffed after the additional coats.  You did your due diligence and saved $5-10 thousand now get a pro to put the icing on that cake.

[1 Wild R/T]

I just commented on your other thread you may want to take a look.  1000 grit is good but the coat may not get a good enough grip and not last.  I would go lower say 600.  You can end up with a really nice finish sanding then applying more coats.  Like I suggested in the other thread, just pay and get it cut and buffed after the additional coats.  You did your due diligence and saved $5-10 thousand now get a pro to put the icing on that cake.

While I agree 1000 grit is marginal for adhesion, the jump to 600 grit particularly with only two coats of clear is likely to have you cutting into the base/color coat... At which point you might as well plan to repaint the whole car....  I'd cut it with 1000 grit & shoot a coat of mid coat adhesion promoter before the final two coats of clear...  The sooner the better, currently the clear on the car likely hasn't fully cured so the adhesion promoter should bite in chemically... The longer it takes to get the car sprayed the less adhesion you'll have...

[Marty]

When I "Flo-Coat", I use 800 grit/wet and sand the surface smooth. Those minor shiny spots won't affect anything. Remask as necessary then apply more clear. 28-30 PSI at the gun. I use a slow activator in the clear on all-over paint jobs. Less orange peel and dry spots. Cut and buff as necessary. You didn't mention if you used a high solid clear or not. That would depend on how many more coats you should reapply. This will also matter how far you go on the cut and buff.

If you should break through the clear coat, just spot in with Basecoat just before clearing. By the way, Flow Coating is a common procedure for show cars. If you cut and buff properly, you'll get a killer shine.

YMMV.

[GoMangoBoys]

Is there any risk of seeing sanding scratches thru the final clear when I use the 600 for sanding the orange peel before the re-spray of the clear?

[JS29]

I use 800 grit, Dry spray=poor adhesion.  So be careful on the dry spots, and if you do break thru it can be blended. I use a bucket of warm water with a few drops of soap and rinse and dry the area often. Good luck!

[Marty]

Is there any risk of seeing sanding scratches thru the final clear when I use the 600 for sanding the orange peel before the re-spray of the clear?

600 will work fine, just more aggressive.