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Scrap it or fix it (door)

Started by Rdchallenger, December 06, 2019, 10:51:12 AM

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If doing this yourself, what would you do?

Scrap it
7 (63.6%)
Fix it
4 (36.4%)

Total Members Voted: 11

Rdchallenger

So I keep looking over the original drivers door and wondering if I have the skill to fix this or just save my time and search around eBay to find another drivers door at a decent price (non repop). Keep in mind also I will be doing no body work as far as filler or primer until spring since the garage is not heated. So have plenty of time to do one or the other.  :thinking:

anlauto

If you're doing the work yourself and your patience can save you money....I say go for it ! What's the rest of the door look like ?
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

tparker

I would probably give it a shot. Remove the paint and see how far the rust is and how much you have to repair.


73_Cuda_4_Me

While you could practice repairing those doors, the outer skin to bottom sheet metal seam is gonna be a real bi*ch to get repaired on your own.

You would have to 'unfold' the outer skin to bottom seam, replace bottom sheet metal, then refold and seal...

If you are confident, or just want to kill time experimenting, go for it! Then replace it, once you have a chance to see where it ends up....
73 340 `Cuda 727 Auto on Column

BS23H3B

Rdchallenger

Quote from: anlauto on December 06, 2019, 11:25:51 AM
If you're doing the work yourself and your patience can save you money....I say go for it ! What's the rest of the door look like ?

Rest of the door, including the skin is good... looks like there was some lead filler in two spots that showed itself after it was blasted but other than what is shown it's pretty good.

Rdchallenger

Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on December 06, 2019, 11:31:27 AM
While you could practice repairing those doors, the outer skin to bottom sheet metal seam is gonna be a real bi*ch to get repaired on your own.

You would have to 'unfold' the outer skin to bottom seam, replace bottom sheet metal, then refold and seal...

If you are confident, or just want to kill time experimenting, go for it! Then replace it, once you have a chance to see where it ends up....

Agreed, that's what keeps making me wonder, is that seam.

Before any cutting I would plan on molding the new patch metal to it to match the contour. Then hopefully once cut, it would fall into place. Tack it, seal it, skim it, and done.

HP_Cuda


Go for it, what do you have to lose?

Buying another door?
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200


Rich G.

From the looks of the rust on the seam I'd replace the door skin. I'd hate to see bubbles coming through the paint a few years later. You'll be surprised how much rust is between the panels .The inner shell you can play fixing it because you really won't see it.

Bossgold

you will always spend way more time trying to fix doors and other rust areas. If you wanted to keep it original then I would have it dipped to make sure you clean out the rust and seal it. Personally, I 've tried to fix this stuff before and its always way more work. Sending it in to a shop will be really expensive. Challenge is finding a good replacement....w/o rust cause you don't want to paint the door and 6 months from now have a rust bubble.....I had that happen. I would start looking around for a good replacement and take the time to find a nice donor

Rdchallenger

Here is the outer skin in case anyone else was curious.

7E-Bodies

I'm I skinned my first e body door a couple years ago. Amazingly simple. Skin removal is quick and will give you access to make a good door frame patch. Go for it.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


jimynick

Rob, that's an extremely complex and curvaceous patch to make and then fit if your intent is to make it look "factory" and the issue of opening the skin seam has already been discussed. Your car, your call, but I'd be looking for a better frame at least and then you're into re-skinning it. There was a guy in Cambridge that had a couple of doors that he was trying to sell me a couple of years ago and if I can scare him up, I'll see if he still has them and what he'd take for them. If you go into re-skinning, I have a pair of AMD skins that I never used and they'll be cheaper than buying one now, that's for sure.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

Fastmark

So what is a fair price for a nice door? I've never sold one. Texas may be hot but we don't have rust like that. Shipping is a big expenses.

jimynick

Yeah, shipping would likely be the killer here, unless you knew a trucker who was making a run down there. I bought a couple of good, clean doors off a member down in Joliet Ill. a few years ago (that I drove down and picked up) and think I paid $300 for the pair- not certain though. I seem to remember that local guy asking $200 Cnd. Today I'd think somewhere around $250 would be a reasonable price, but then, that's just my opinion, ain't it?  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

Rdchallenger

I did see a few listed on eBay for $400 with no rust but some dents it looks like, one of them seems to be on the upper crease. He did send me an offer of $250. I may see if I can get it for $200 and use the difference to get an skin. Especially if you have a drivers side skin that you'd part with @jimynick