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Windshield corner

Started by gzig5, May 09, 2020, 03:14:46 PM

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gzig5

Where do the two smaller corner pieces go in this pic?  I have the larger piece for each side but don't understand where the small parts go? 

70 Challenger Lover

If I remember right, the little ones are just section pieces that graft into the A pillar. They should go under the larger pieces.

gzig5

You may be right.  It seems like there are several layers there.  I got a rude awakening when I pulled the passenger fender off.  I knew the area around the windshield was goofy, but didn't expect the damage on the cowl.  The area below it is pretty straight so I don't know what happened.  It took a shot in the lower A-piller and rocker but that doesn't explain the collapsed cowl.  The picture doesn't convey the damage very well but here it is.  Rivets are never a good sign.  This has been a tough week....

Does anyone have a good pic or two of that passenger side cowl area that isn't mangled.  I'm probably going to make a patch for part of it and seeing a solid reference will help.


70 Challenger Lover

You won't want to hear this but rip off the upper cowl and do it right. You need to see what going on under it and it will make the corner area easier to repair. I have tried doing patch stuff on cowls only to give up and replace the whole thing. It's really not a bad job at all and while it's off, you can clean and paint the area in between around the vents.

70 Challenger Lover

Here's a couple of where I started by trying to section and save some of the original followed by me just doing it right. Replacing entire pieces is much fast and easier. I have also found that welding new metal to old sucks. New to new is so much more forgiving with far less blow through.

gzig5

Thanks for the pics.  If you had one of the new top cowl part, looking at it from the passenger side that would finish it. 
I have no problem replacing the bad metal with new stampings, but if 75% of it is still solid, I prefer to leave the original metal alone.  Especially if I'm doing the work and not paying hourly.  In this case, the original metal is fairly clean outside this smashed up corner.  BUT.  Before I make that call I need to get the other fender off and peek at that corner.  Another layer of the stinky onion.


70 Challenger Lover

Yeah I said exactly the same thing. In fact, I tried that on the floor and the passenger rail and a little turned into a little more and eventually into a lot. Both my passenger rail and the floor board are now more than half new metal. And welding new metal to old sucks bad. I suspect that given your picture, you will need to do a lot of work on the whole bottom edge of the windshield metal where the upper cowl overlaps. You might have rust on the other corner area too.

Unfortunately, no one sells sections of the upper cowl so you'll have to buy the entire new panel to cut up. Here's a few more photos if it helps you.


gzig5

Perfect.  Thanks.  Since we are on the subject, I was getting the car ready to go in and have the outer A piller panel with the hinge mounts done similar to yours, as well as the rocker and passenger side floor (or maybe the whole floor).  I'm pulling the motor/trans, brake lines, fuel lines, interior, dash, etc.  I don't feel comfortable cutting that much rocker out without a frame jig, that I don't have room for currently.  So I found a good shop close and he's doing the hard stuff and I'll finish. I know it doesn't make much sense to do it this way, but you think I could do the cowl and the windshield corner and just tack the corner in so he can get the cowl side hinge panel in with the rockers?  I'll let him make the call, but I'm on a budget and trying to do as much as I can by myself.  Or maybe he does the lower work and I'll finish the upper side.  After looking at the driver's side and getting the windshield trim out, I probably need to to that corner and a little of the cowl too.

70 Challenger Lover

@jimynick gave me a lot of great advice when I started on mine. I was nervous as hell but I got through it and it turned out great plus it was a great experience. He had me put in a brace when I removed the hinge panel and cowls.

Here's a few that sound like what you need.

70 Challenger Lover

Before I started on this, I got some some warehouse style U channel steel and strung them lengthwise and crossways on six jack stands and leveled it all out so I could take good measurements.

JS29



gzig5

Appreciate the extra pics.  If I had the space to lay it all out, I'd give it a shot, but I don't.  I don't mind paying a craftsman to do some of it and giving it to him for a few weeks will probably move me forward 8 months.   I'll be doing a lot of metal work once the rockers and rear frame rails are solid. 

70 Challenger Lover

Quote from: gzig5 on May 10, 2020, 03:38:33 PM
Appreciate the extra pics.  If I had the space to lay it all out, I'd give it a shot, but I don't.  I don't mind paying a craftsman to do some of it and giving it to him for a few weeks will probably move me forward 8 months.   I'll be doing a lot of metal work once the rockers and rear frame rails are solid.

Your plan sounds fine. To be honest, I think what stalls people out is not having a well thought out plan they can realistically adhere to. Any plan that keeps momentum forward is a good plan in my view.

gzig5

My goal so far has to been get it running, and then keep it on the road as much as possible while I work on it. Now it is time to take care of the structural issues and then we get back to the fun.  Good part about pulling the motor and giving to the shop, I finally get to dig into the 340 and install the ProMaxx heads and Comp XE275HL cam in it. That should wake it up, but I might go with a solid cam if I can get one quickly that matches the combo.

70 Challenger Lover

I had a solid cam once. It was fun. I'm sure the guys here can give you some great cam recommendations for your 340.