Car not running right

[JS29]

You are NOT suppose to use the ballast resister with a pertronex igniter! You are suppose to use there flame thrower coil, 

[Mr Lee]

You are NOT suppose to use the ballast resister with a pertronex igniter! You are suppose to use there flame thrower coil, 

There are 3 levels of the Ignitor you can get.  Pretty sure only level 2 and 3 you dont use the ballast resistor.  Level 1 simply does away w the points but the ballast stays


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JS29]

Than I read the instructions wrong than, My instructions indicated to by-pass it! 

[Mr Lee]

Than I read the instructions wrong than, My instructions indicated to by-pass it! 

I may upgrade to the Ignitor 2 next.  And then bypass the ballast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chryco Psycho]

basically turn the idle screws out until the rpm is not rising & turn them back in to the point just before the rpm starts to drop.
there is a small set screw accessable from the bottom of the carb to open the secondaries a bit more allowing for better sensitivity for the mixture screws but your sound like they are in the right zone being 1 turn out ,
the power valve you need to be 1.5" below the vacuum reading at idlel in Gear , so if you are making 8" of vacuum you need a 6.5 PV

[Mr Lee]

So if my engine makes 14-15" of vacuum (my reading is jumpy) i should have a 6.5 power valve right?   I will check to see what size PV i have next. 

I noticed that when i turn my mixture screws all the way in, the car only dies when turning the right side mixture screw in, not the left side.  What does that mean?   That the needle end of that screw may be damaged?  Ive been turning them very lightly as instructed. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chryco Psycho]

The 6.5  powervalve is Ok & is the common go to in Holley carbs , you can fatten the circuit so it get extra fuel fast as the throttle is opened by going to a 9.5 ifyou want to change it but I would concentrate on other issues first .

Both screws shuld have equal effect , so there my be  a blockage or bad gasket eithe inside the metering block or base plate , you can try compressed air or a carb cleaner through the air bleed or behind the mixture screw before you disassemble the carb .

[Mr Lee]

Update. 

Upgraded the ignition to a Pertronix 2, Flamethrower Coil, and bypassed the ballast resistor.

No noticeable difference.

Next I finally got around to hooking up a fuel pressure gauge.  (I didnt even realize that my vacuum gauge was also a fuel pressure gauge but i needed a fitting to hook it up). It was a very jumpy reading but it was bouncing around btwn 7-9.  Too high.
So I picked up a fuel pressure regulator, hooked it up and set it to 6 psi.  Nice and steady reading.

I had dropped my floats a few times prior to this trying to lean things out, so I set them back to factory specs and started it up... 
I regained the function of my idle mixture screws, mostly.  Turning in the left screw will make it stall.  Turning in the right side screw makes it almost stall.  So, not sure whats up with that yet but at least they are responsive again cause for awhile they weren't at all.

The car did smoke really badly for the first few minutes.  I mean badly.  Black smoke.  But then it mostly went away.  And the next time i started it up it didnt smoke bad at all so im not sure what to make of that. 

On the test drive the car felt the best its felt so far.  More responsive and powerful.  So i was happy about that... but it's still lacking in the top end.  The power curve seemed to flatten out around 3,500 - 4,000 rpm or so and it did backfire once when coming to a stop.  But i was very glad to be making progress.  I drove it pretty hard tor about 20 min.
Pulled two of the spark plugs.  #3 and # 5 and once again they looked totally different from each other.  3 was tan, 5 was black.  I dont understand this. 

Tonight, i put on a Carter AVS that my brother had sitting in a box for 15 years.  After about 20 minutes i had it idling and mixture screws adjusted good enough for a test drive, but no stud for the air filter so i ran without one quick.

Oh my god, what a difference!!!  Crisp, responsive, smooth!  And no question about the secondaries opening up.  It was like a turbo just kicked in with a deep beautiful sound emanating.  It was like a different car.  Big difference and the best its run yet. 

Didnt look at the plugs yet.  Need to do that.

Not sure whats wrong with that Holley I had on there but changing the carb made a big difference. 

Thanks to all for the help as always!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Purepony]

I just saw your thread I was going to say the carb is probably the issue

I put a Holley street avenger at it ran funny I put the edelvrock back on and it ran much smoother and steady