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I have the urge to go old school with the cuda, should I?

Started by torredcuda, November 20, 2017, 08:22:34 AM

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dave73

Quote from: torredcuda on November 22, 2017, 08:54:45 AM
or go the other way and do this minus the numbers

Quote from: 303 Mopar on November 22, 2017, 09:20:08 AM
Quote from: torredcuda on November 22, 2017, 08:54:45 AM
or go the other way and do this minus the numbers

Now your heading my direction.  I love the old school look and the more "resto-mod" look too.  I agree with @Chryco Psycho that the suspension, wheel, and brake upgrades on mine have helped it handle and perform extremely well. 

Sounds like you have some decisions to make before any parts will be ordered.

Now you're talking, this is the direction I went with mine. 512 stroker, 4 speed, full hothckis/qa1 suspension, stage 3 steering box - car handles awesome and is so fun to drive. Might add team3 lt-III wheels next year to get that minilite look and bigger tires.


torredcuda

OK, latest idea is to go old school but more of a road racer look than the jacked up L60`s and tunnel ram. What combo of factory and aftermarket parts can I use to achieve decent handling on a budget? I`m thinking the 11.75" front rotor swap, obviously heavier torsion bars, springs and sway bars and I`ll be adding subframe connectors, spring mount reinforcements and such. I`d love to go full Hothckiss or something but budget won`t allow that, even doing it in stpes would be OK, what should I do first?
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/

HP2

SFC are a must. I'd also include something around the engine bay - either the lower radiator yoke mount or the inner fender supports. Gusset up the steering box mount on the K frame.

Suspension wise, what do you have now?  If you have a piece or three already on the car, it will minimize the cash outlay, but could dictate some different sizes of other parts. Offset upper a arm bushings or tubular arms can get extra caster. Shocks will be a fair expense if you want good ones.

Wheels, you got some torque thrusts. Ar200 and minilites were also used on TA cars. Or you could go late model and use a oval track racing wheel with d.o.t. approval.


dave73

Quote from: torredcuda on January 03, 2018, 09:44:49 AM
OK, latest idea is to go old school but more of a road racer look than the jacked up L60`s and tunnel ram. What combo of factory and aftermarket parts can I use to achieve decent handling on a budget? I`m thinking the 11.75" front rotor swap, obviously heavier torsion bars, springs and sway bars and I`ll be adding subframe connectors, spring mount reinforcements and such. I`d love to go full Hothckiss or something but budget won`t allow that, even doing it in stpes would be OK, what should I do first?

Is your car in a fully driveable state? Mine was so I kept driving it while I was buying the hotchkis parts. I couldn't buy the whole kit at once, so I waited until I caught sales and collected what I needed. I got my brand new hotchkis upper control arms for $400 off amazon, it was some flash deal that me and a few others caught on cuda-challenger. Then I dropped my k frame and put all the new stuff on all at once. Only thing I don't have is the strut rods (went with qa1) and subframe connectors (will be doing that at a later date).

js27

I kind of went day 2 on my Challenger. The original motor was gone(383) so I kept the body and interior factory spec and then put in a 440 with all the go fast goodies I use to use back in the 60-70's. I was going with Cragers SS mags but had a brand new set of Magnum 500 I bought for my 67 GTX and thru them on to get the car running and I liked them so I kept them on--kind of look a bit like Keystones which were big on Mopars back in the 60/70's thanks to Sox and Martin. This way I can change it back to all original in a weekend if needed with a motor swap.
Do it the way that will make you happy..
JS27

RUNCHARGER

I think that is a great way to modify a car. It's so much more fun to drive so you end up using it more than the traditional day 2 look. I do like the day 2 look but I like driving them more.
Sheldon

torredcuda

Engine and trans are currently out for a new clutch and 4 spd rebuild but otherwise running driving car. I have leaf springs and torsion bars out of a 383 car, not sure exact size/part numbers, factory front and rear sway bars, polyurethane bushings, cheap KYB shocks, all else stock. I know doing either offset bushings or aftermarket upper a arms will gain me caster so that is on the list. I assume next would be heavier springs and sway bars and better shocks along with the chassis reinforcements.
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/



Shane Kelley

Quote from: torredcuda on January 04, 2018, 07:50:37 AM
Engine and trans are currently out for a new clutch and 4 spd rebuild but otherwise running driving car. I have leaf springs and torsion bars out of a 383 car, not sure exact size/part numbers, factory front and rear sway bars, polyurethane bushings, cheap KYB shocks, all else stock. I know doing either offset bushings or aftermarket upper a arms will gain me caster so that is on the list. I assume next would be heavier springs and sway bars and better shocks along with the chassis reinforcements.

Bigger torsion bars and sway bars made the most drastic improvements on mine. I expected it out of the sway bars but didn't realize what a huge improvement the torsion bars would make.   :alan2cents:

Brads70


torredcuda

i
Quote from: Shane Kelley on January 04, 2018, 08:21:35 AM
Quote from: torredcuda on January 04, 2018, 07:50:37 AM
Engine and trans are currently out for a new clutch and 4 spd rebuild but otherwise running driving car. I have leaf springs and torsion bars out of a 383 car, not sure exact size/part numbers, factory front and rear sway bars, polyurethane bushings, cheap KYB shocks, all else stock. I know doing either offset bushings or aftermarket upper a arms will gain me caster so that is on the list. I assume next would be heavier springs and sway bars and better shocks along with the chassis reinforcements.

Bigger torsion bars and sway bars made the most drastic improvements on mine. I expected it out of the sway bars but didn't realize what a huge improvement the torsion bars would make.   :alan2cents:

What sizes/spring rates and where did you get them/what brands?
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/


Brads70

If your curious , here is what I did.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/-using-c-body-spindles-on-an-e-body-and-a-body-lcas-and-viper-calipers/58/

I ended up with 1.125" torsion bars ( I have FF 1.180" but haven't installed them yet) and have 225# composite leaf springs. Tires make a HUGE difference too.

Shane Kelley

I used PST torsion bars and everything is Hotchkis except for rear leafs. They are MP and are way to soft. Hotchkis rear springs are on the to do list. Below are the torsion bars I used.

torredcuda

Quote from: Brads70 on January 04, 2018, 10:41:25 AM
If your curious , here is what I did.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/-using-c-body-spindles-on-an-e-body-and-a-body-lcas-and-viper-calipers/58/

I ended up with 1.125" torsion bars ( I have FF 1.180" but haven't installed them yet) and have 225# composite leaf springs. Tires make a HUGE difference too.

That`s awesome and I` sure your car handles very well but too involved for me. I`ll do the connectors and other stiffeners over the next couple months. I figure get offset bushings or new upper a-arms then work on getting new leafs and torsion bars as I`m sure the 40+ yr old factory one are pretty tired, then add some new shocks and beefier sway bars.
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/

Brads70

Quote from: torredcuda on January 06, 2018, 03:54:25 AM
Quote from: Brads70 on January 04, 2018, 10:41:25 AM
If your curious , here is what I did.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/-using-c-body-spindles-on-an-e-body-and-a-body-lcas-and-viper-calipers/58/

I ended up with 1.125" torsion bars ( I have FF 1.180" but haven't installed them yet) and have 225# composite leaf springs. Tires make a HUGE difference too.

That`s awesome and I` sure your car handles very well but too involved for me. I`ll do the connectors and other stiffeners over the next couple months. I figure get offset bushings or new upper a-arms then work on getting new leafs and torsion bars as I`m sure the 40+ yr old factory one are pretty tired, then add some new shocks and beefier sway bars.
I agree it's a process, took me 4-5 years to get it where I wanted it. Not many of us have the funds to do it all at once. What I am hoping by posting what I did is to help others not make the same mistakes I did. Like 4 sets of torsion bars and 3 sets of leaf springs and 3 different shocks.