Need Some Motivation from the Group

[dodj]

My only advice is to do what you want;

Yup...as for value when done...I'd pay more for dmod's car than a 70 with correct parts....we're all different.

[torredcuda]

It sounds like you and your son really want the car "correct", being a `70 V code there is not much of an option but to pay the money when you find the parts. I am always on a budget and not usually in a rush so I wait to find better deals thru private partys, swap meets etc. than pay top dollar thru big name vendors when I can.

[Cudajason]

DAMNNN that is a good looking car!

whichever way you go, it appears you are starting with a solid foundation.

[tparker]

Personally I am a fan making the car driveable and restored to the level that makes sense for the given car. I am not a huge fan of complete restorations to how it came off the show room floor. First of all, the car is 50 years old and it shouldn't have the factory fan belt. LOL. And if you are adding parts that maybe correct to a car that they are not actually correct to, then that feels a bit like cheating. I have a LOT of respect for those rare cars that are 99% original and those that aren't but appear to be just seem to be "fake". They look cool and are cool, don't get me wrong. But an actual all original is amazing. The worst case is having people believe it is all original and if and when the car hits the market it can be confused with an actual all original. Also it seems to me to be a bit like cheating if you just pay someone to restore it back to factory original.

I prefer to have a car to show a bit of its history. Maybe to have different valve covers, radio, or carb. Definitely different consumables. In my case I have a yellow with vinyl top 70 challenger 340 that had the western sport package. I bought it around 1990 and it was in kinda rough shape but not too bad. I always loved the AAR cudas and T/A challengers so I swapped the 318 to a 340 and added a 727. I let it sit for a long time and there was a lot of rust in the roof and trunk. I have rebuilt it as well as I can but have beefed it up a bit and changed parts based on availability and performance. It will have headers and TTI dual exhaust which aren't original of course. The motor wasn't original to that car and the crank and cam surely aren't. The previous owner painted the rallye wheels black which I really like so I am repainting them black. Blasphemy. I will probably get the aluminum rallye style wheels later. I liked the previous vinyl top (which I don't think was actually vinyl. I'd would have put that on again if I new exactly what it was. I am building it for the car I wan't and keeping it mostly period correct, but updating many things. The only thing that bugs me is not having the proper air cleaner. After 50 years it is bound to not be all original and have some issues. Heck, I am the same age and I am not all original and I am a bit banged up and battered and even missing a couple parts. And when my hip or knees go I will probably prefer a new high performance one rather than a period correct one.

By the way, no offense to anyone that restores or has a restoration. They are awesome. I just have my preference.

[70_440-6Cuda]

Thanks @Cudajason, appreciate the props!  Lots of great opinions, and it helps a lot. I think I have a plan....this just helps keep me on track.

Again, it is more about doing justice to the car, not an investment or worrying so much about resale - I do not plan to ever sell it.  I have hopes of doing a '71 'Cuda next, but starting with any model, even a '74 and converting it to a '71 and building a Hemi clone where I won't care as much about the correct parts and just have fun with building what I want....

By the way, this photo is what I am hoping for in the end....

[Joegrapes]

Your car sounds a lot like mine when I got it. By that I mean it was mostly there but not really a valuable car with desirable options. I did have the broadcast sheet but no fender tag. I thought it would be fun to make it look the way it did in 1970 but with no thought of any numbers matching or date coded parts. I concentrated on the body and interior since no matter how you build the car those will be done the same. Along the way I realized I didn't really like it original looking performance wise so I did all the usual mods we did back in the early 70's so I guess you can say it's more period correct looking. The only modern mods I did was the fuel injection and disc brakes. The drums just didn't look right with the wheels I used and the fuel injection just makes driving more enjoyable.

[RUNCHARGER]

A factory black V-code, Super Track Pack is pretty darn desireable. The matching #'s engine kind of forces your hand to make it original too. I'm glad you wrestled it out of the previous owner's hands so it can be made more original.
A few years ago I briefly sold resto parts to GM, Ford and Mopar guys. Being a Mopar guy I always felt the GM guys were extra picky with their sheetmetal parts for their not all that rare cars but with their numbers (and the competition for their dollars) they can afford to be. I was surprised how much was available for Mustangs (but not much for other Fords) and how cheap the parts were, I also couldn't believe how cheap the Ford guys were, you'd price out a $150 quarter panel or a $100 fender for them and they'd balk like a Cat talking a bath in motor oil. When Mopar guys find out something is available they'll go without lunch so they can buy the part.
I tried to help a few multi line guys that were doing their first Mopar. I would explain assembly line procedures or what to look for in a correct part and their eyes would just glaze over. I'm proud to say that overall Mopar guys will try harder to get stuff right than the others do. Our cars in general come out a bit more pure and that's the way I appreciate it. You want to put your 24 inch donk wheels on a Mopar be prepared to be ridiculed.

[anlauto]

  My upholstery guy that I've known and used for almost 40 years now, is a die-hard Ford guy. He's restored and flipped more Mustangs then anybody else I know in our area....but after so many years of working on my Mopars he finally got the itch and bought a 71 Challenger....I think he's still in shock over the price of things....every time we talk now, it's about the cost of those dam Dodge parts   So much so, that I'm not even certain he'll ever finish the car...

[70_440-6Cuda]

Well Alan that is sort of where I was getting to - discouraged by the price of parts and thinking I ought to just buy one done!  But that's no fun, and i do want to do the car justice - that is why I use this forum so much - tons of GREAT info, and guys willing to help.  I am sticking to my plan - just going to have more patience for finding the correct stuff, and worrying less about date codes - I cannot tell you all how much this thread helps!

[MoparLeo]

Like Alan said about just buying factory authorized reproduction parts. Many times the quality is better than OEM.
I always say if you want to just look at it, take a picture. But if you want to drive/enjoy it, just don't short cut quality, but do not worry about perfect parts, they won't be perfect for long if it is a driver.
A number one car quickly becomes a number 2-3 car when you drive it. And each level of restoration cost 2X as much as the last level.
A number 2 car looks like a number one to most people but to get to number one level ( All lunch box/nos/original ) will cost you double what it cost to get to a number 2 level car. Most local car show cars are #3 that look just fine and are driven but regularly maintained.

[dodj]

just going to have more patience for finding the correct stuff, and worrying less about date codes - I cannot tell you all how much this thread helps!

Just thinking a little outside the box....You could sell the 440-6 cuda and buy a 72-74 and have $$$ left over to do whatever you want with the 'less desirable' car. You get to build it ANY WAY you want and nobody will tell you what you should have done. Or that you ruined a good car. It's very liberating..lol
I think just the roof is original on my car. When I tell them it's a '73, nobody says 'too bad you don't have the original motor' or 'those three point seat belts aren't original' etc. Because people just don't care what you do to a 72-74.
I have cross drilled and slotted rotors. Can see them through the Torq-thrust wheels. If you do that with your car, you will get tired of explaining to people at shows why you have the wrong brakes.....

[70_440-6Cuda]

To be honest - that plan is to have both....I know its a lofty goal, but I use the excuse that my 12 yo daughter loves the 'Cuda as much as her brother, so better have a pair to leave behind

I know the "liberating" feeling you are talking about - this whole thing just got sideways when I got the broadcast sheet - now I am too far in to turn back, but am going to slow down a bit; I think I was over reacting / getting overexcited buying parts when I found them, regardless of price.  A little more time spent here and I have already saved about $1K on some things I was looking for.

Plus, I am buying things I don't even need "right now"; all the comments got me pumped back up and I am drafting a written plan - nothing complicated, but a rough idea of how to get from here to there and in what order, see if it makes sense and collect the stuff I need first - I should have known better not having a plan considering I have been working in the major construction industry (think building an airport or hospital tower) for 20 years - planning is everything and it still all goes wrong!

[RUNCHARGER]

With Mopars though you sometimes need to buy those parts when they come up. It's good to have a list of them though. Where you are located I would attend Spring Fling if you can, lots of parts there and these days saving on shipping can be a huge savings. Just be glad you're located where you are, lots of us have to double even triple the cost of parts for our projects.

[torredcuda]

Also keep in mind supply issues - many things are back ordered or have long lead times.