Winter storage. What’s best?

[xx88man]

I don't have heated storage for my car. What's the way to prepare for storage?

[70 Challenger Lover]

I just bought a place with an unheated shop so I'm curious what folks do as well. What sort of winter temperatures require special precautions?

[JH27N0B]

I've always had an unheated garage and I've never had issues with a car after winter storage.
When I built my new garage 12 years ago, I insulated it and thought I could keep it over 40 minimum using a ceiling mounted 220 v heater, but that didn't work out.  I can warm the garage up nice when I want to work out there, but can't use it 24/7.
As far as car prep, make sure you have the proper mix of coolant, not water!
I top my gas tank to avoid condensation, I mix some stabil 360 and 100 LL avgas for the last few gallons I put in, and drive the car a few blocks to circulate the stabil before putting in the garage and shutting down for the last time until spring.
I also change the oil before I park it to have fresh oil in the crankcase.
I overinflate the tire to about 45 psi to prevent flat spotting, put the sun visors down since mice like to sit on them and chew headliners, and put dryer sheets on the floor to deter mice.  I'm not sure if anything actually repels those damn things, but I do it anyway.
Then I cover the car and leave it for it's winter hibernation.
Some fog the engine, others like Joe Gibb racing oil as it supposedly adheres to the cylinder walls to prevent scoring when you fire up after its sat for months.
I don't get that carried away, though I sometimes prime with some 2 cycle gas when I first start in spring.
I've never run into issues and this is what I've done every year for several decades.

[Jim AAR]

Yep the most important things are to make sure your Washer Reservoir is empty, add Stabil to the tank, have at least -30f (depending where you live) I use that because it`s a 50/50 mix with the Concentrated AntiFreeze and it gets too damn cold in Winnipeg in the winter. My garage is unheated and uninsulated, if you heat it i would keep it above freezing all the time to reduce condensation on metal structures, the constant going back and forth with heat and cold creates too much moisture.

[Spikedog08]

I'm lucky enough to have a heated garage for a least one of the cars . . Remember to unhook the battery and use a battery tender. 

[71383bee]

I've always had an unheated garage and I've never had issues with a car after winter storage.
When I built my new garage 12 years ago, I insulated it and thought I could keep it over 40 minimum using a ceiling mounted 220 v heater, but that didn't work out.  I can warm the garage up nice when I want to work out there, but can't use it 24/7.
As far as car prep, make sure you have the proper mix of coolant, not water!
I top my gas tank to avoid condensation, I mix some stabil 360 and 100 LL avgas for the last few gallons I put in, and drive the car a few blocks to circulate the stabil before putting in the garage and shutting down for the last time until spring.
I also change the oil before I park it to have fresh oil in the crankcase.
I overinflate the tire to about 45 psi to prevent flat spotting, put the sun visors down since mice like to sit on them and chew headliners, and put dryer sheets on the floor to deter mice.  I'm not sure if anything actually repels those damn things, but I do it anyway.
Then I cover the car and leave it for it's winter hibernation.
Some fog the engine, others like Joe Gibb racing oil as it supposedly adheres to the cylinder walls to prevent scoring when you fire up after its sat for months.
I don't get that carried away, though I sometimes prime with some 2 cycle gas when I first start in spring.
I've never run into issues and this is what I've done every year for several decades.

Very similar for my cars as well.  Except I put the car on rollers. 

I've gone both ways with the oil where I change it for startup in spring.  As long as at first startup it has fresh oil.  I've heard its better to change in fall as condensation can form inside the crank case.  For what its worth ive changed typically in spring for many years on several cars and don't recall an issue. 

In the midwest unless the garage is truly heated there is no stopping the cold. insulation helps but the garage will likely get to freezing temps regardless. 

One thing to add is to use a battery tender on the battery. 

[JH27N0B]

I used to take my repro battery inside in the winter and put it on a piece of wood in my utility room.  It lasted a good while for a repro battery.  I decided not to spend the big bucks to replace it with another and just bought a Walmart Everstart.  In winter, I would disconnect that battery and leave it in the car, and it lasted a super long time, over 10 years.  I never trickle charged it or used a battery maintainer.

[R/T's 4 R/P]

Don't be tempted to go and start the car in the middle of winter and let it run for a little bit.  I hear of people doing that and it just introduces moisture to the engine and exhaust, unless you let it run for a long time.
I've stored by cars every year for 40 years...each spring is a wonderful occasion.

Mice, as noted above, are the worst!  As long as the car is closed up, it's probably good, but a lot depends on where you keep it.
If there is a chance they will be around, try any and all home-made ideas...dryer sheets, pieces of irish spring soap, etc.  I've learned that putting baited traps out, just encourages them to come nearby.  Just place sticky traps around the tires, or something without a bait.

[whitsend]

Car Capsule. I love mine 

[Caparco]

 Driven HR5 oil is specialty made for that and SEF (small engine fuel) This gas doesn't hold up for very long. But it Will cost you.. 7$ a gallon over here. Course you only need.a few gallons running through the lines