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Would you run this timing cover?

Started by challenger7070, August 17, 2025, 02:11:58 PM

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challenger7070

Once repaired of course, with metal epoxy.

After cleaning two and half decades of crystalised coolant, it turns out some of the metal was eaten away through corrosion, but not all the way through.
 
It will take some work, especially around that bolt hole, as it also affects the gasket surface. I'll need to be meticulous and ensure the gasket face is completely flat, but it's original and saves cost and waiting for a repro.

My biggest worry is the epoxy letting go.


pschlosser

Considering a sealant and/or gasket will provide the majority of the sealing action, an epoxy seems like a good fit.

I vote JB Weld, or similar.

screamindriver

Original ?? It's got a 79 year for the date clock... Maybe you mean original mopar ?? In any case they're still many available in the local boneyards to snag a better piece..I hate needing to go back in for something like that... I'd say IMO it's a little too far gone to feel good about the jb weld holding up over the years for something like a fresh rebuild...


cudamadd

No I would not just for my piece of mind Aussie

cuda hunter

I tend to agree with getting a replacement.
I'm sure it would work for a while but what if and when will it have issues. 
 If you have a welder, you could possibly weld aluminum into the spots and then grind them down to perfection.  That would not bother me. 

These are easy enough to find.  Especially if this is a 79 part. 
"All riches begin as a state of mind and you have complete control of your mind"  -- B. Lee

https://forum.e-bodies.org/vin-fender-tag-build-sheet-and-date-codes/13/the-m46-list/16415/msg216651#msg216651

MoparLeo

This is not even saving money. Buy a new replacement.Just make sure to get the proper year. The timing marks are in different places but toss the old one into the recycle can.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

Mr Cuda

I have nice ones for sale, 1970 dates.
PM me


challenger7070

Quote from: screamindriver on August 17, 2025, 04:21:46 PMOriginal ?? It's got a 79 year for the date clock... Maybe you mean original mopar ?? In any case they're still many available in the local boneyards to snag a better piece..I hate needing to go back in for something like that... I'd say IMO it's a little too far gone to feel good about the jb weld holding up over the years for something like a fresh rebuild...

Good spot, it's a '69 built vin, missed the 7 on the stamping so guess that's not original to the car, but original Chrysler. I do prefer original parts where possible over aftermarket, but as you say it may not be worth trying to save it with metal epoxy. The more I try to progress it, the more curveballs it throws.

Chryco Psycho

No way I would use that , begging for a failure & get stranded somewhere !

tparker

Probably dead post now, but I'll add my lame 2 cents. You might get away with fixing that up and it might work pretty well. But it might not. The way I would look at it is, what is the worse that can happen and are you ok with that risk? As mentioned, you could end up stranded somewhere. Could you damage the engine? Probably not likely but possible if you loose enough water and it severely overheats. It's a relatively cheap part to replace and if you already have it off, why not replace it?

I personally don't really care about numbers matching. I do like to keep as much original as I can, but I think people go crazy with numbers matching. Belts, air filters, and tires are consumable items, you don't need number matching. LOL. OK, old tires do look cool. I REALLY appreciate survivor cars that ARE all(mostly) original. That is amazing. But taking something that was fairly beat up and trying to restore it back to a crazy level orginal-ness is a bit odd to me since it isn't original. Of course I don't really care that people do that, just saying it isn't something I care to do myself. So with that in mind, I say replace it with a good part.

Mr Cuda

#10
I offered up a good, cleaned, late 69 cover but never got a pm back from the poster.
I was cleaning a 3/70 cover, and discovered a crack. This is why buying a greasy one for cheap, sometimes isn't worth it.


Brads70


cuda hunter

Quote from: Mr Cuda on August 21, 2025, 04:53:15 PMI offered up a good, cleaned, late 69 cover but never got a pm back from the poster.

You ROCK !!
"All riches begin as a state of mind and you have complete control of your mind"  -- B. Lee

https://forum.e-bodies.org/vin-fender-tag-build-sheet-and-date-codes/13/the-m46-list/16415/msg216651#msg216651

Chryco Psycho

I would run the cracked one over the original one , the crack could be welded easily

Mr Cuda

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 25, 2025, 05:46:55 PMI would run the cracked one over the original one , the crack could be welded easily
The cracked one is in the scrap pile.
I checked my shelf and have (10) 70-71 date covers, plus newer ones.
Dorman sells a new cover that is pretty nice. (Amazon $116)


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