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Alternator Bypass Wire Routing

Started by Poolshark314, September 30, 2020, 07:54:57 AM

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Dakota

I made my own, but based on numerous positive posts I've seen over the years, crackedback is the person you want to buy from.  I'm not sure what your set up is, but give some thought to using additional relays if you have an electric fuel pump and/or an air conditioning compressor. 

Poolshark314

1973 Barracuda
2012 Charger R/T AWD

Poolshark314

Quote from: Jim AAR on October 03, 2020, 11:56:29 PM
Do you need the In Line Fuse? Or can you just run an 8 gauge wire end to end instead of stepping it down with an Inline fuse?

My Ammeter still works on my Standard dash, but I think after reading all these posts i'll run the bypass and disconnect the Ammeter.

I only drive mine a few times a week so starting it up and checking the voltage with a voltmeter when i go out and when i come back to make sure its still charging isn't that big a deal, it would be if i went on a longer trip, then i'll have to install a voltmeter I guess to be on the safe side.

You can also get one of the cigarette lighter plugs that has a built in voltmeter. I have seen them on eBay and Amazon so I got one for a couple bucks and it seems to be pretty accurate.
1973 Barracuda
2012 Charger R/T AWD


70rag383

Quote from: dodj on October 04, 2020, 05:58:46 AM
Quote from: chargerdon on October 04, 2020, 05:31:52 AM
Can anyone recommend a headlight relay bypass kit ?
I made my own, but crackedback has received numerous kudos for his/her kits.

I used the kit from @crackedback for the bypass and the headlight relay. Designed and fabricated very well. No splicing, just connect things up.  The instructions for the headlight relay kit are excellent.  I did the bypass and the relay kit in a couple of hours. Highly recommended.

crackedback

Thanks for the positive comments regarding my relay and wire around kits. 

I build relay systems for other items on the cars as well.   AC compressor, power top pumps, power windows, fans, fuel pumps, just about anything that would perform better with cleaner power runs or take the load off the expensive switches in our cars.    My approach is to make everything as close to plug and play as possible, no splicing or cutting of an OEM harness.  Guys that hate electrical make comments that my kits are simple to install and do the job beyond expectations. 




xx88man

@Cuda Cody   Admin can we make this thread a sticky or move it to the Resources section? very valuable information
Keep yer foot in it

xx88man

I have a question... I will be doing this bypass but I tend to overkill things. My car is all original with a 318. Is there any harm using 6ga wire if I don't have heavy electrical loads? And what size fusible link should I use? Thanks
Keep yer foot in it


Cuda Cody

Done.  :twothumbsup:

Quote from: xx88man on December 09, 2020, 08:19:07 AM
@Cuda Cody   Admin can we make this thread a sticky or move it to the Resources section? very valuable information

dodj

Quote from: xx88man on December 09, 2020, 08:22:37 AM
I have a question... I will be doing this bypass but I tend to overkill things. My car is all original with a 318. Is there any harm using 6ga wire if I don't have heavy electrical loads? And what size fusible link should I use? Thanks
No problem with the 6ga, it's still bigger than stock. Size of fusible link? I'd aim for about 70 - 80amps.  I have an 80 amp fuse with my 60a alt.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

xx88man

Quote from: Cuda Cody on December 11, 2020, 05:57:35 AM
Done.  :twothumbsup:

Quote from: xx88man on December 09, 2020, 08:19:07 AM
@Cuda Cody   Admin can we make this thread a sticky or move it to the Resources section? very valuable information

Thanks!
Keep yer foot in it

xx88man

Quote from: dodj on December 11, 2020, 10:08:31 AM
Quote from: xx88man on December 09, 2020, 08:22:37 AM
I have a question... I will be doing this bypass but I tend to overkill things. My car is all original with a 318. Is there any harm using 6ga wire if I don't have heavy electrical loads? And what size fusible link should I use? Thanks
No problem with the 6ga, it's still bigger than stock. Size of fusible link? I'd aim for about 70 - 80amps.  I have an 80 amp fuse with my 60a alt.

Thank you  :drinkingbud:
Keep yer foot in it


71383bee

This thread remined me of when i changed out my harnesses on the challenger a couple of years ago.  The alt feed wire was fried numerous times in its life!  I found splices all over the place.  I could not believe I drove the car for a year prior to changing which included its trip home from Rhode Island! Even the primary feed on the column ignition harness inside the car were fried and bypassed!  It was a mess and I'm glad I did this.

I can not stress enough the importance of this very simple modification.  I've don't it to every one I've owned and done it the "traditional" way of using a 10 ga wire to a 14 ga fusible ran along the stock harnesses. 

I've never done anything inside.  Just the bypass as I agree this will take 99.9% of the load off the interior bulkheads and have not noticed any issues.  To each there own.  I understand the reasoning.  The important thing is to just DO IT. 

Another good tip I have heard is to NEVER tie in added accessories to the BAT side of the fuse block or wiring.  I noticed my car had a decently sized aftermarket stereo system wired in and I wonder if the shorting problems started then.   
73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

moparroy

Quote from: 71vert340 on October 01, 2020, 06:17:32 AM
  This bypass thread is great. I've read about it on several boards. I do have one question about it. Why couldn't a person just put a jumper wire between the two posts on the ammeter instead of disconnecting it entirely? Takes the load off the ammeter. The bypass wire shown installe in this thread takes the load off the harness connection and ammeter anyway. Just wondering.
Terry
A big part of the issue is the connectors in series with the ammeter not the ammeter itself. The engine harness connector and the bulkhead connector with the smaller (IMO inadequate) gauge wiring are heating points. On my car the engine harness pin was totally melted and bypassed before I even got the car and the bulkhead connector casing was also distorted from heat. Mine was a drag toy in an earlier life - lots of short runs and stops and starts. When the battery gets run down the alternator (even a 60A alternator) will push a lot of current through the factory 12 gauge wire. Once the connectors start to oxidize with age the heating at those connections gets worse and worse.

7E-Bodies

@Scooter a friend of mine is (non aggressively) selling his grandparents 68? Fairlane. Blue metallic, low miles small block v8 in Peoria Illinois if interested I could find out more. No price set yet. Drives and runs I'm told.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

Scooter

Quote from: 7E-Bodies on October 02, 2021, 11:52:53 AM
@Scooter a friend of mine is (non aggressively) selling his grandparents 68? Fairlane. Blue metallic, low miles small block v8 in Peoria Illinois if interested I could find out more. No price set yet. Drives and runs I'm told.

Thanks for keeping me in mind! Three car garage is already stuffed and I think I'll be divorced if I show up with another toy.... lol.