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Brighter dash bulbs

Started by 70 Challenger Lover, April 05, 2020, 01:10:08 PM

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bc3j

I used a neutral polarity EF32RLNP for my turn signal flasher and grounded it to the ash tray frame. That flasher gives the audible clicking when on. My stock hazard flasher still worked, albeit at a slower rate.  I left that one alone. All my lights that turn on with the headlight switch are LEDs except my headlights. Still use the halogen seal beams with relays. I have sufficient lighting at night.

Rbob

#31
Quote from: 72RoadRunnerGTX on June 09, 2021, 07:04:29 AM
Quote from: BIGSHCLUNK on April 07, 2020, 06:49:05 AM
Here you go !



If running a factory ammeter, never add any loads to the starter relay or battery terminal, all loads need to go on the alternator side of the ammeter. For simple headlight relays, go to the alternator output stud.

@72RoadRunnerGTX

what about guys/gals that run 8ga wire alternator to starter relay to reduce load on the bulkhead connection, if using ammeter would it be ok to run 8ga from starter relay to alternator side of ammeter also?

still learning.

Found the 1157 LED:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-w-stock-cover-dual-function-36-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit-car/1689/

72RoadRunnerGTX

If running the by-pass described then not only are the bulkhead charge circuit connections by-passed, the ammeter is by-passed as well, defeating the purpose of the ammeter. Effectively not running an ammeter in that case. Would not matter where the loads are connected then.


Rbob

@72RoadRunnerGTX

I did not explain good,

I am keeping my ammeter and considering running 8ga wire to starter relay to reduce bulkhead load and 8ga wire from starter relay to alternator side of ammeter.

What I am not sure of where does the voltage regulator sense the loads?

 

Poolshark314

Quote from: Rbob on June 12, 2021, 12:03:30 PM
@72RoadRunnerGTX

I did not explain good,

I am keeping my ammeter and considering running 8ga wire to starter relay to reduce bulkhead load and 8ga wire from starter relay to alternator side of ammeter.

What I am not sure of where does the voltage regulator sense the loads?



What @72RoadRunnerGTX is trying to say is, if you are going to run an 8ga wire from the starter relay to the the alternator post, the ammeter will no longer function properly, even if it's still connected. All of the current will be flowing from the new 8ga wire. It is taking the path of least resistance. Hope that helps.
1973 Barracuda
2012 Charger R/T AWD

Rbob

Thanks,  I am thinking too hard again!!

:thinking:

72RoadRunnerGTX

  If you are going to by-pass the charging output circuit bulkhead Packard connectors, of the two runs to the ammeter, start with the alternator to ammeter run (black wire) first as it handles more current, all of the vehicle loads and battery charging current. The ammeter to fusible link to starter relay should only see battery charging/discharging current while the engine is running. Careful not to by-pass or parallel the fusible link if adding a parallel wire run to the relay from the ammeter. Check the condition of the ammeter insulators, don't over tighten the ammeter stud nuts.

  This by-pass will address biggest weakness in the original charging system and preserve the ammeter function. Again, adding any additional loads to anywhere on the battery side of the ammeter will add this additional current across the ammeter/ammeter connections and register as false charging current on the ammeter while running.

  Apologies to the OP of this thread for hijacking the LED discussion.


Jay Bee

@Cudajason   Still waiting on brand/source and part number on your LED tail light bulbs, see Reply#29. I haven't seen that size & style anywhere. Thanks.

John


Cudajason

Quote from: Jay Bee on June 14, 2021, 06:42:22 PM
@Cudajason   Still waiting on brand/source and part number on your LED tail light bulbs, see Reply#29. I haven't seen that size & style anywhere. Thanks.

John

Sorry about that guys.

I found them on Amazon and took a shot. They seem like good quality.
1974 Cuda. 360 / A500 OD.  Yes its pink, no its not my wife's car!  Yes I drive it.




anlauto

Quote from: bc3j on June 15, 2021, 06:35:11 AM
I used these. Red for tail lights and amber for parking.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-bulb/2625/

That's the kind I bought as well, hopefully they will work well when I fire them up ! :fingerscrossed:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

70vert

These are the ones I am using (BAY15D), red for the taillights and amber for the front turn signals. They work fine though they don't seem as bright as the ones CudaJason shows. I used BA9S for the side markers, again red and amber. I did have a slight fit issue with the rears as they seemed too "long" and hit the marker lens but I managed to get them to stay in. We'll see how they hold up.


Quote from: anlauto on June 15, 2021, 06:39:22 AM
Quote from: bc3j on June 15, 2021, 06:35:11 AM
I used these. Red for tail lights and amber for parking.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-bulb/2625/

That's the kind I bought as well, hopefully they will work well when I fire them up ! :fingerscrossed:

jbaha

Thanks @Cuda jason

I gave it a try here's the tail lights with this bulbs on my 74 chally!