Clock rivets

[CudaHead]

I'm working on my 1970 Cuda dash conversion to Rallye.
I have two Rallye clocks and both do not work.
I want to try and repair them and have read the procedures.
I need the rivets to do the procedure. Do you know where I can get those black rivets?
I do know they may come with the conversion kit, but I want to try doing it old school.

[CudaHead]

I think I can find what I'm looking for the Au-ve-co catalog.
https://www.auveco.com/rivets-1

[CudaHead]

Ok, it appears that what I need are Solid Rivets.
The Av-ve-co catalog does not have small enough for this application.
This appears to be a better source:
https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/solid-rivets#1

This looks close:
https://www.rivetsonline.com/a125b0250a/a125b0250a
I may have to paint the heads.

Do any of you have the original rivets so that they can me measured for head and shaft sizes?

[Jay Bee]

I believe what you actually need are "semi-tubular rivets", and a rivet clincher to peen them over. Those are what I used and I bought the tool on eBay.

[CudaHead]

Thanks for the tip. I will research that.

[Jay Bee]

Here's the spares I bought. The black ones were from Instrument Services and the brass ones were from Mr Heaterbox.

Head Dia. - .145" (both)
Shaft Dia. - .085" (both)
Length - .180" (black)
Length - .149" (brass) I have a loose one of those, not in the sealed package.

The quartz conversion I've used in the past were from Instrument Services (R-3035). The clincher I bought was actually for the larger 1/8 semi-tubular rivets used to attach the rallye light bar lenses. It still worked but I don't know if a smaller clincher would have been better for the gauge rivets. FYI: I've done 3 of these conversions.

[cudaize]

I rebuilt my blower motor, heater housing, and ash tray. I bought this tool to clinch the rivets.  It's actually made by guys who are restoring Tonka trucks.  I believe it is just a standard clamp that someone has drilled the end of the screw to accept the rivet dies.  I did a quick search on ebay and didn't see this particular one but the one I saw the guy is selling with long dies and the maximum opening is only 1".  For some of the things I did particularly the heater motor and the ashtray, I don't think that would be enough.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/tonka-tubular-rivet-tool-1-dies-1724873846

Most of what I used were semi-tubular rivets.  Unless you can find somebody selling ones for exactly what you are trying to do I would go to one of the rivet websites and educate yourself a little bit about them.  there are different head types, solid part of the tube depends on how thick the metal is, and then there is an allowance for the clinch.  Pick a rivet tool long and the pieces won't tighten up, too short you may not be able to properly clinch.

[CudaHead]

Great information. Thanks for taking the time to answer that question. I will bone up on whatever I find.

[HEMICUDA]

That's all these guys do, call them, great to deal with.

https://www.hansonrivet.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Zaqi86e5gIV1RZ9Ch2PvQAZEAAYASAAEgLYMPD_BwE

[CudaHead]

I called https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/

Given the measurements given above, I ordered a box of both.
They did not have them in black. They had them in stainless steel only. I will paint them
The .149 length was not available so I got slightly longer ones.
I also bought the correct tool for them.

The boxes came in a minimum of 100 for about $12.
The tool was around $25.

Thanks for the help. After I make sure they will work, I can share some for those who want them.

[JS29]

  We have some of the best members, sharing knowledge, experience and parts.   

[Jay Bee]

Keep in mind that the "length" measurements I gave are total overall length, not just the shaft length. That's why I included the picture, to depict that, with the head. Suppliers usually list the shaft length without the head. I was having a bugger of a time getting an accurate "shaft only" length measurement.

[CudaHead]

Sorry for not getting back soon on this. I've been busy helping a friend build his garage.
I got the rivets Samples and they were not anywhere what I was looking for.
I called Tom at https://www.instrument-specialties.com/contact/ because they restore these clocks. I asked where he got the rivets. He said he has them custom built.
I asked if he would sale me six of them (I'm working on two clocks). He said yes and sent me six for $15.

I got them in, but have not ordered the rivet tool yet.
It looks like I need a Hand Squeeze C-Clamp style. They are not cheep.
See: https://www.rivetsonline.com/solid-semi-tubular-rivet-tools/hand-rivet-squeezers#1

The rivets appear to be 3/16" top to bottom.
3/32" shaft
Solid shaft
Dome top?

[HEMICUDA]

Sorry for not getting back soon on this. I've been busy helping a friend build his garage.
I got the rivets Samples and they were not anywhere what I was looking for.
I called Tom at https://www.instrument-specialties.com/contact/ because they restore these clocks. I asked where he got the rivets. He said he has them custom built.
I asked if he would sale me six of them (I'm working on two clocks). He said yes and sent me six for $15.

I got them in, but have not ordered the rivet tool yet.
It looks like I need a Hand Squeeze C-Clamp style. They are not cheep.
See: https://www.rivetsonline.com/solid-semi-tubular-rivet-tools/hand-rivet-squeezers#1

The rivets appear to be 3/16" top to bottom.
3/32" shaft
Solid shaft
Dome top?

That's kind of what it takes to do the job on a professional level, the correct rivets, dies and crimping tool.  I invested in correct crimping tool, rivets for the ashtray, light bar, heater box & vent box.