Correct Coil Wiring

[gzig5]

Putting in my new engine harness from YearOne.  The old one was hacked up and used what looked like speaker wire on the coil terminals.  Wiring diagram I found for my 73 doesn't show coil polarity.  Does this look like it is wired correctly?  By tracing the wires I think this was how it was running, not saying it is wired correctly. 

Brown wire is on + and had a D-shaped hole in the connector which I had to drill out to go over the terminal.  Black and Yellow is on - with the green wire for the aftermarket tach.

[JS29]

Negative - go's to the distributor along with tachometer. Key power to positive+. If you have a test light that would confirm the positive wire is switch powered.    

[gzig5]

Thanks.  I think it's the way it needs to be.  Will find out once I finish going through the distributor and get it back in.

[Chryco Psycho]

You are right , brown comes from the ballast & goes to positive , black goes back to the ECU for ground on the negative terminal

[gzig5]

It works!

Now the next issue. The potting was melting out the back of the voltage regulator and I had noticed some fluctuation in the ammeter and the voltage itself so I got a new VR at NAPA.  Now I'm getting 15.05 V at the battery and 14.8 on the blue wire at the ballast resistor.  Seems  a tad high.  Would you guys run it like this or take the regulator back to try a different one.  I guess the new parts are a bit of a crap shoot.  Is there a VR that is more likely to be in spec?  FWIW I think I was getting about 14.3 V at the battery on the old regulator.

[Cudakiller70]

Battery condition good? And is it fully charged when you got those numbers? All accessories off? 15.05 is at upper end, 13.5-14.8 I believe what you want. You could run it and watch for battery boil over. Check VR for good ground.

[gzig5]

Battery condition good? And is it fully charged when you got those numbers? All accessories off? 15.05 is at upper end just watch for battery boil over. Check VR for good ground.

Yes, Yes, Yes.  I scraped paint around the screw holes on the firewall and used the toothed washers, but I'll check with a meter tonight.  Only difference is the new harness and new regulator.  I could see there being less drop through a fresh harness but the regulator should still be putting out a voltage that is within the accepted window and the lowest I could find anywhere under the hood was 14.8 V.

[dodj]

You may have this taken care of already, but in case you haven't......
Voltage drops in connectors can cause the mopar charging system to overcharge. The most common places for a high resistance connection is in the bulkhead connector or the column connector.
Lets say you have 13v at the battery. Then due to poor connections at the B/H connector you have a .75 volt drop going to the ign switch and then another .75volt drop going out to the ballast. The VR will think the system voltage is 11.5 volts and adjust the o/p of the alternator accordingly.
A number of years ago my alt was charging at 16.0 volts. Corroded connections was the cause. Cleaned and lubricated any and all connectors and it charges at a max of 14.4 now.
I'm sure you're familiar with the kind of grease to use....

It may not be your issue, but something to look at.

[gzig5]

I've not done any further investigating on this and online searches have found I'm not alone on the higher voltage thing and as far as I could find there were no serious detrimental effects.  All my measurements were under the hood, nothing under the dash through the bulkhead connector.  Essentially, I put in a new voltage regulator and harness and the reading I got a the battery when the motor is running went from about 13.9V to 14.8-15.0 V.  Car is running well the few times I had it out so I'm just monitoring it.  I'm aware of the issues through the bulkhead and I do measure a decent drop across it, but that is going to have to wait until I pull the dash this winter.