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Cuda No Start **UPDATE**

Started by floorit426, February 05, 2021, 05:29:59 PM

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floorit426

I tried to fire up my engine today, after pulling it out, to repaint the engine compartment. I need it to fire up right away, as I installed a new cam, while it was out. The engine cranks, but there is no spark. I checked, and there is no voltage, at the coil. I have not checked the ground, at the ecu, yet, but I suspect it may be okay, because the led in the unit is on. I will check it, tomorrow. I did try to jump the battery, directly to the positive side of the coil, still nothing. Is there somewhere else I should be checking?

Chryco Psycho

Well , we need more info .
You say the LED light is on so it is not a stock system . What system are you using ? MSD for example willnot have voltage at the coil , it has to crank to feed the coil .

floorit426

It's got an FBO ecu, with the ballast resistor jumped.


Chryco Psycho

My condolences  :Thud:

Get Don to help you , according to him his parts are never the problem , he just sends bad ones to me & my customers .

dodj

Seeing as you changed the cam, I would ensure the dizzy is installed correctly with the rotor pointing at #1, TDC, on the compression stroke.
I would also go over all the electrical connectors that were disconnected for the engine removal. Make sure your grounds are back on.  :alan2cents:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

nsmall

If it's not the ECU or ballast, bad coil possibly? 

floorit426

Quote from: dodj on February 05, 2021, 08:19:29 PM
Seeing as you changed the cam, I would ensure the dizzy is installed correctly with the rotor pointing at #1, TDC, on the compression stroke.
I would also go over all the electrical connectors that were disconnected for the engine removal. Make sure your grounds are back on.  :alan2cents:
I would think I would get some type of backfire, or something, if the dizzy was 180 out. I'll check it and all of the connections, and grounds, today. As for a bad coil, is there a way to test that?


Topcat

Let me know if you want me to call Dave.
He could come up perhaps?

dodj

Quote from: floorit426 on February 06, 2021, 08:12:32 AM
Quote from: dodj on February 05, 2021, 08:19:29 PM
Seeing as you changed the cam, I would ensure the dizzy is installed correctly with the rotor pointing at #1, TDC, on the compression stroke.
I would also go over all the electrical connectors that were disconnected for the engine removal. Make sure your grounds are back on.  :alan2cents:
I would think I would get some type of backfire, or something, if the dizzy was 180 out. I'll check it and all of the connections, and grounds, today. As for a bad coil, is there a way to test that?
I usually just test with another, but I believe you can power up the coil with 12vdc, have a plug wired to the tower and have the threads of the plug grounded. Same -ve as your 12vdc. When you remove the 12vdc you should get a spark at the plug.

I'm thinking you have a connection or dizzy orientation problem because I'm assuming it ran when you took it out. So a component problem , IMO, is unlikely.
You have fuel...right?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

71383bee

Check the reluctor gap in the dizzy.

I helped a friend with his 383 that would not fire after it ran for a cam break in. Brand new MP distributor that was not checked ahead of time. Troubleshooted all sorts of other items until I pulled the cap. It was full of metal shavings and I could see the gap which is not good as it should be 0.008" set with a Non-Metallic feeler gauge. Reset it and it fired right up.


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73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

71383bee

Check the reluctor gap in the dizzy.

I helped a friend with his 383 that would not fire after it ran for a cam break in. Brand new MP distributor that was not checked ahead of time. Troubleshooted all sorts of other items until I pulled the cap. It was full of metal shavings and I could see the gap which is not good as it should be 0.008" set with a Non-Metallic feeler gauge. Reset it and it fired right up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top


floorit426

Okay, I have an update! I jumped a wire, from the battery to the positive side, of the coil, still no start, with turning the key. However, with the coil still jumped, and the key in the "run" position, it started, by jumping the starter relay.

71383bee

Well at least you are getting somewhere. If it's not starting in start then check the ign 1 circuit.  I had a loose wire in the steering column harness that plagued me for years.


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73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

71383bee

Well at least you are getting somewhere. If it's not starting in start then check the ign 1 circuit.  I had a loose wire in the steering column harness that plagued me for years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

dodj

Proves out the dizzy and ECU.  :bigthumb:
Problem lies with wiring/ign switch. My money would be on the wiring/connections.
Bulkhead connector, column connector-the one with the large wires.
Check that the large red wire powering up the interior has 12vdc on it at the column.
Verify the ignition switch operation.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill