Did you say goodbye to the 70's wiring??

[RUNCHARGER]

My old boss wouldn't sell Painless, he preferred American Autowire. Way less problems. I am dealing with a Painless right now on a kit car and I have to say the instructions etc. don't really make a lot of sense.

[70rag383]

I have to agree , I have installed about 8 of the aftermarket wiring systems , probably more , Painless is just the name !!

Hi Chryco, I'm about to do the ammeter bypass with an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay.  Most of the info I read on this topic says you need a fusible link (in my case it would need a 12 gauge wire spliced to the 8 gauge wire)  at the starter relay end. I'm not an electrical engineer so I'm looking to understand the pros and cons of including the fusible link. Thanks!

[7212Mopar]

You can use a high amperage fuse instead.

[70rag383]

I think Chryco was advising that no fusing is needed at all since there is 12v coming from both ends? 

What size fuse would you advise? alternator max output is 90amps, I think.

[crackedback]

If you don't put some form of protection in the wire around from alternator to starter relay, the OEM fusible links in the car are worthless.  The way I build them there is always something in that wire around cable to protect the system.

I suggest doing things different from the Mad approach.  Put the wire around in place, bypass ammeter and leave the rest of the OEM wiring in place if the bulkhead/wiring is in good shape.  I prefer to not cut up the OEM harness.   

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/charging-system-wire-around-6-or-8ga.460372/

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

[70rag383]

If you don't put some form of protection in the wire around from alternator to starter relay, the OEM fusible links in the car are worthless.  The way I build them there is always something in that wire around cable to protect the system.

I suggest doing things different from the Mad approach.  Put the wire around in place, bypass ammeter and leave the rest of the OEM wiring in place if the bulkhead/wiring is in good shape.  I prefer to not cut up the OEM harness.   

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/charging-system-wire-around-6-or-8ga.460372/

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Thanks. I just sent you an email. Interested in the bypass 8 gauge wire and your headlight relay kit.

[dodj]

If you don't put some form of protection in the wire around from alternator to starter relay, the OEM fusible links are worthless.

On standard alternator challengers,  only the battery feed had a fusible link.  The alternator did not.
They both had fusible links on the optional,  higher power alternators.

[crackedback]

If you don't put some form of protection in the wire around from alternator to starter relay, the OEM fusible links are worthless.

On standard alternator challengers,  only the battery feed had a fusible link.  The alternator did not.
They both had fusible links on the optional,  higher power alternators.

Putting in a hard wire from starter relay to alt charge stud renders that OEM battery side fusible link worthless.  You are now feeding to the OTHER side of the link that is to be protected from the battery in case of a short.

[dodj]

If you don't put some form of protection in the wire around from alternator to starter relay, the OEM fusible links are worthless.

On standard alternator challengers,  only the battery feed had a fusible link.  The alternator did not.
They both had fusible links on the optional,  higher power alternators.

Putting in a hard wire from starter relay to alt charge stud renders that OEM battery side fusible link worthless.  You are now feeding to the OTHER side of the link that is to be protected from the battery in case of a short.

Oh I understand. I just was looking at the engine wiring recently and noticed that the factory put in a single fusible link for std alts and put in additional fusible links on the o/p of 60amp alts.

Actually, come to think of it, if your Challenger was wired from the factory with a 60amp alt, you wouldn't need to add a fuse for the alt to relay connection.

Thoughts?
@crackedback

[crackedback]

If the OEM alt charge side does not have a fusible link in it, the wire MUST have one to protect the harness.  This is if the OEM black charge wire is still attached at the alternator.

If there is a fusible link, then it has protection.  Got to cover it from both sides with a wire around set up and the OEM black wire still connected.    You have potential risk from both sides in the circuit with a storage device (battery) and producing device (alternator).

I prefer to put a link in the wire around, just in case.  A little bit of redundant protection.  Same as a house panel, you have a main feed breaker then sub (smaller) breakers for each room/device.

[Scooter]

I added 2 smaller 14ga wires from the alternator to the starter relay and put the old charging wire to the AMP gauge on the same post as the output side bypassing it. Thought was the 14ga wires would take some of the charging load.

Ordered a 6ga bypass wire from Rob.

After I install the new 6ga wire (and remove the dual 14ga), I should just be able to disconnect/remove the old charging wire from the alternator to the AMP gauge completely and the system will operate normally correct?

I believe the backside leg of the AMP gauge already has a fusible link between it and the starter relay.

[Rumple]

Whats the most straight forward approach to bypassing the alt? Pulling the gauge cluster out? I've never taken my dash apart so forgive my ignorance.

[dodj]

If you mean bypass the ammeter
and you are still pretty flexible.....

Disconnect the battery first. Then lay back on the driver's side floor and look up under the dash between the column and the trans hump. Take one lead off the ammeter and attach it to the other post. Done.

If you meant an alternator bypass wire. Run a wire from the alt output stud to the positive battery terminal or the starter relay. Should fuse it. Done

[Rumple]

Yes, that was a typo, I meant ammeter. I was on the floor under the dash not long ago. It was a bit tight for my 250lb frame but I'll pop some Aleve and give it a go!

[bc3j]

I'm sure I'm the odd man out, but I maintain the ammeter and use Mopar's fleet by-pass option.  I by-passed the bulkhead connector and wire direct to ammeter then direct to the starter relay. Also use headlight relays.