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Fusible Link and voltage limiter

Started by nsmall, February 02, 2017, 10:23:51 PM

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cataclysm80

Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 06:11:56 AM
QuoteSo I did some reading and from what I understand I need an add a fusible link in between the firewall and that starter relay red wire that does not currently have a fusible link.  Correct?

Yes. However, you should already have one there.  The factory put one there.  If you really don't have a link between the starter relay and the bulkhead connector, someone removed it.

He provided a pic of his starter relay earlier in this thread. 
It confirms that he does not have a fusible link installed. 
Someone has removed it and hooked the wire straight to the starter relay without the fusible link.
A new fusible link should be installed.

Cuda Cody

@cataclysm80  yes, there are a few ways to draw your attention to the messages.

See the screen shots below.  You can make it so you get a PM when you get tagged and set your PM's to give you a pop up.  Hope that helps!   :bradsthumb:

Quote from: cataclysm80 on February 10, 2017, 09:52:43 AM
I wonder if there's a way to make the envelope icon blink if you have unread messages?   I've seen that on other forums, and it seems to help draw attention to the message box if something new shows up.

cataclysm80

Quote from: nsmall on February 09, 2017, 09:44:03 PM
You said..."OK a little clarification please...When you say "the red wire is connected from the alt to the starter" do you mean the starter relay ???"

Answer:  NO
That big red wire running from the alternator runs straight to the starter (no fuseable link in that wire)
Do I need to take more photos?

The photos you have provided so far are helpful. 
If you can get a picture of where these wires connect to the starter, that might also help us.



Quote from: nsmall on February 09, 2017, 05:31:19 PM
Do I need to keep the red wire from my alternator to my starter hooked up as I'm assuming that's how my starter gets power?
Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 06:20:11 AM
The wire that's running from the alternator to the starter...is that wire powering the starter? 

The alternator can't power the starter because the alternator only provides power when the engine is running.
(you wouldn't need a starter when your engine is running  :D )
There must be a cable from the battery to the starter.



Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 06:11:56 AM
The way the factory designed the system is this...
The + battery cable has two wires...one thick and one thin.  The large heavy wire goes directly from the battery to the starter.  The smaller + cable wire goes from the battery to the starter relay. 

nsmall, does this accurately describe how your + battery cable is hooked up?
Maybe a picture of your + battery cable would also be helpful.



Here is a brief recap of what's going on so that everyone is on the same page.
The car has an aftermarket aluminum radiator with electric cooling fans which pull more power than the factory ammeter can handle.
The solution is to bypass the ammeter, making sure the circuit is fused for safety.



Quote from: nsmall on February 09, 2017, 05:31:19 PM
I reread what everyone said and I'm thinking that having my red main wire go from the alternator to the starter is not a stock set up its supposed to go to the dash, is that correct?

Correct, On a stock set up, the wire goes to the dash. 
You don't want a stock setup though because we need to bypass the ammeter since your car has been modified.



Quote from: nsmall on February 09, 2017, 05:31:19 PM
Do I need to keep the red wire from my alternator to my starter hooked up
Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 06:11:56 AM
There shouldn't be any wire that runs from the alternator to the starter. 
Quote from: screamindriver on February 09, 2017, 06:11:47 PM
When you say "the red wire is connected from the alt to the starter" do you mean the starter relay ??? If the answer is yes then you've already got your charge wire bypassing the bulkhead connections{bypassing the amp gauge with the main charge current} and there would be no need to buy any additional 10gauge wire...

The point is to get the alternator current to the battery in order to charge the battery.
The + battery cable should be connected to the starter AND to the starter relay.
Connecting the alternator wire to EITHER the starter or the starter relay should function the same.
You could also run the alternator wire straight to the + battery post, and it would function the same.
Regardless of where the wire is hooked up, it should be fused for safety.
We've been suggesting that the alternator wire be connected to the starter relay because that is the easiest thing to do.

Though the alternator wire would work fine connected to the starter, I think it will be difficult to install a fusible link down there, and it's also closer to the engine heat.
I'd suggest moving the wire to the starter relay.



Quote from: nsmall on February 10, 2017, 12:31:54 AM
So I did some reading and from what I understand I need an add a fusible link in between the firewall and that starter relay red wire that does not currently have a fusible link.  Correct?

Correct.  On this wire, the best place for a fusible link is on the end of the wire by the starter relay.



Quote from: nsmall on February 10, 2017, 12:31:54 AM
I also need to add a fuseable link to the thick red wire running from the alternator to the starter.  Correct?

Correct.  A fusible link on both ends of this wire would be even better. 
You can move this wire from the starter to the starter relay if it makes things easier.  In either location, the wire should be connected to the same post that the + battery cable is connected to.



Quote from: nsmall on February 10, 2017, 12:31:54 AM
I don't care about stock appearing so I'm under the impression I can add these fusible links to the existing wire.  Is that correct? I have a friend who can help me with this as he's really smart but I need to explain to him what I want.  Just to confirm what exact size of a fuse should I buy?

Yes, you can add fusible links to existing wires.  That's the way it's done.

A wire size is 2 gauge sizes.
For example, wires are available in 8 gauge, 10 gauge, 12 gauge, 14 gauge, 16 gauge, etc.
There is no 9 gauge wire or 13 gauge wire, no odd numbers.

The exact size of fusible link needed is 2 wire sizes smaller than the wire being protected.
That's the same as 4 gauge sizes.
For example: if you were protecting a 10 gauge wire, you would use 14 gauge fusible link.
OR if you were protecting an 8 gauge wire, you would use 12 gauge fusible link.


HP_Cuda

Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 06:11:56 AM
The way the factory designed the system is this...

The + battery cable has two wires...one thick and one thin.  The large heavy wire goes directly from the battery to the starter.   There was no wire from the alternator to the starter.  The smaller + cable wire goes from the battery to the starter relay.  From the starter relay, the wire goes through a fusible link before it goes into the bulkhead connector.  That wire powers EVERYTHING on the car except for the starter itself which is powered by the large + cable. 

QuoteSo I did some reading and from what I understand I need an add a fusible link in between the firewall and that starter relay red wire that does not currently have a fusible link.  Correct?

Yes. However, you should already have one there.  The factory put one there.  If you really don't have a link between the starter relay and the bulkhead connector, someone removed it.

QuoteI also need to add a fuseable link to the thick red wire running from the alternator to the starter.  Correct?

No.  There shouldn't be any wire that runs from the alternator to the starter.  The large starter wire should run from the starter, right to the battery.

QuoteIn an effort to be extra safe...I run a fusible link on both ends of a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay?

That's what I would do.  I would also add one to the factory wire that's connected to the alternator stud.

:iagree:

You can also make your own fusable link, it's really not that hard. The smaller guage wire will fail first and drop the connection - that's all there is to it.

1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Burdar

QuoteThe alternator can't power the starter because the alternator only provides power when the engine is running

Not correct.  The stud on the back of the alternator has power all the time.  The small wire from the + battery cable sends power through the bulkhead twice and ends up at the alternator.  If his battery is in the trunk, someone could have run the + cable up to the alternator and then back to the starter.  Doesn't make sense but it could happen.

cataclysm80

Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 11:32:51 AM
QuoteThe alternator can't power the starter because the alternator only provides power when the engine is running

Not correct.  The stud on the back of the alternator has power all the time.  The small wire from the + battery cable sends power through the bulkhead twice and ends up at the alternator.  If his battery is in the trunk, someone could have run the + cable up to the alternator and then back to the starter.  Doesn't make sense but it could happen.


OK, I think that makes sense.
I couldn't imagine powering the starter with the little wires that go through the ammeter, but if the + battery cable were hooked straight to the alternator it would work.  :bigthumb:

I guess we need to know for sure how his + battery cable is hooked up.


I think he had said in another thread that his battery was still under the hood, but that doesn't mean the + cable is hooked up normally.
This car's had some stuff done to it.

HP_Cuda

Quote from: Burdar on February 10, 2017, 11:32:51 AM
QuoteThe alternator can't power the starter because the alternator only provides power when the engine is running

Not correct.  The stud on the back of the alternator has power all the time.  The small wire from the + battery cable sends power through the bulkhead twice and ends up at the alternator.  If his battery is in the trunk, someone could have run the + cable up to the alternator and then back to the starter.  Doesn't make sense but it could happen.

:iagree:

I zapped myself several times screwing around with the alternator. Not advised!!!
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200


HP_Cuda


Hey nsmall

Why not post up some pics of what we are talking about!!!

B
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Cudalbs

#38
I am posting a few pics of how I did it and you guys can look it over and see if it is done correctly and if not I am certainly open to any advice. Maybe with my weak little drawing you can get him going in the right direction.

Mike

"Love those round taillight cars"

nsmall

#39
Quote from: Burdar on Today at 06:11:56 AM
The way the factory designed the system is this...
The + battery cable has two wires...one thick and one thin.  The large heavy wire goes directly from the battery to the starter.  The smaller + cable wire goes from the battery to the starter relay. 

This is what I have.  HOWEVER the red wire going from the +battery post to the starter relay is NOT Thin, its thick and it has no fuse on it.

nsmall

#40
There are multiple wires that leave the alternator and go to a bulkhead near the firewall. As for the main thick red wire in the following pictures it goes straight from the alternator to the battery.  Like I've said many times it has NO fusible link so I'm assuming I need to figure out a way to run this alternator wire to the starter relay instead of to the actual starter and run it with a fusible link and FYI... I don't know what size the gauge is.

If I need a fuse or to reroute the small thin wires that leave the alternator and go to the bulkhead I need a lot of advice on tha.  I am still confused if it is the main red wire from the alternator or the small wires from the alternator or the red wire from the starter relay that runs to the ammeter (the whole point of this thread is am trying to avoid that).

Sorry I am so slow on understanding guys.  We almost got this.  Thanks


nsmall

#41
Here's the red wire that leaves a starter relay and has no fusible link that goes to the bulkhead on the firewall.

I'm under the impression this is going to be something I need to buy that is original with a fuse set up in it as it has to plug into the bulkhead or can I modify it?  If so, any guess of the size of the gauge so I know what type of fuse to buy?

Thansk

nsmall

#42
There is small wire coming off the positive terminal of the battery and runs inside the interior and does NOTHING. I think this was going to be hooked up to the heater control panel or something???

I don't know but I'm just going to pull this wire off

nsmall

Lastly, here's a photo of the electric fan hooked to the starter relay and a couple of other photos. Let me know if you need any more photos to help you help me figure out what I specifically I need to do/ buy.

THANKS

cataclysm80

Nice job with the pics.  That helps a lot.  :)