Fusible Link and voltage limiter

[screamindriver]

Nice pics...Now you're getting somewhere.. .As others have stated that huge red wire going from the alt to the starter needs removed or rerouted to the starter solenoid{to charge the battery}...Yes,it works using the starter as the merge point but that's not the best place for that to happen as already pointed out..

    You already know you need to add a fusible link to the red wire that's heading through the bulkhead connector....Here's my question after looking at the pics...That set of wires{going to and from the amp gauge} appear to be heavier than the factory gauge wiring{?} Can you see IN the bulkhead connections ??? Tug on them gently.....Are those wires run straight through those holes{as in NO connectors} ?? Since someone has rewired a lot of your system I'm wondering if that's the case..

[nsmall]

@Burdar @screamindriver @cataclysm80

"screamindriver" The red wire running from the starter relay to the bulkhead DOES NOT run thru the bulk head.  See photo #1.  I don't know the size and I don't know if it is stock, but it fits in the bulkhead and does not go thru, fits snug

As for the fusible link.  I understand what I need to buy, just confused on the size as this current set up may be more thick vs stock. See photo #2

[nsmall]

I didnt tag ya all on the following posts because I hopefully lured you in on my last post.  Okay, that sounded creepy.


As for the black wire that runs from the alternator to the bulkhead, it also DOES NOT have a fusible link.  See photo #1.  It also looks like some high schooler was working on it.  It has a black tape on it.

This black wire RUNS STRAIGHT THRU THE BULKHEAD.  It DOES NOT plug in.  Screamindriver...you got a good eye 

So for now I will just leave this black wire alone as I will be tearing the car down soon so until then I CANT do the trick of putting  the two ammeter gauge wires together with a bolt to bypass the ammeter gauge and wrap them well so the don't ground. 

Just curios...Can I disconnect the black wire NOW or will this cause problems? What I am trying to ask is Do I need to wait until I do the trick with the two ammeter wires before removing the black wire that runs from the alternator?  See attached photo #3 as it looks like the answer is I need to keep this black wire in for now.

Another side note.  I just bought a new three speed OEM wiper motor.  Does it plug into the empty upper left corner of picture #2?

THANKS

[nsmall]

At this point I am going to ORiellys (our local parts store) and I am going to see if they sell a fusible link for the red wire that runs from the starter relay to bulkhead.

I will also see what they have for a fusible link on each end for a 10 gauge wire for the alternator to starter relay set-up I am looking to do. I will also be removing the red wire that runs from the alternator to the starter.

As for the super thick red wire that runs from the battery to the starter relay, I am assuming this needs no fusible link? See attached #1
As for a better ground, do I need this attached factory ground set strap? See attached #2

These guys (Evanswiring.com)  sell a fusible link for $15.  Not sure what the set up is all about, I can call them before going to local parts store

[chal340]

You can make your fusible link too. like this you have the good length, rooting....
http://whiteproducts.com/fusible_link_wire.shtml

[Burdar]

I am going to see if they sell a fusible link for the red wire that runs from the starter relay to bulkhead.

Yes, you need one there. 

I will also see what they have for a fusible link on each end for a 10 gauge wire for the alternator to starter relay set-up I am looking to do. I will also be removing the red wire that runs from the alternator to the starter.

  Yep, good there too.

As for the super thick red wire that runs from the battery to the starter relay, I am assuming this needs no fusible link?

Correct.  The factory didn't use anything special there.  Very low risk of something happening in that short run.

If I were you, I'd invest the $40+/- in a factory style battery cable.  It will clean up the wiring a little and get rid of that extra connection on the battery.  You don't have to do that now though.  Take the car apart, get it painted and put the new cable on during re-assembly.

As for a better ground, do I need this attached factory ground set strap?

The factory negative cable also used two wires.  A large wire ran to the front of the drivers side head.  A small wire ran to the radiator support.  That was it...until sometime in 73 when they added one from the back of the passengers side head to the firewall.  I think it would be a good idea to add this extra ground.  You don't need anything special though.  Just remove that alternator to starter wire, shorten it and use it for your ground wire. 

As for the black wire that runs from the alternator to the bulkhead, it also DOES NOT have a fusible link.

Correct, the factory never had a fusible link on that wire.  If there was a problem with that wire, the fusible link between the starter relay and bulkhead was designed to burn.  Now that you have a jumper wire from the alt to the relay, you need to protect that wire.  I'd add a fusible link at the end of that black wire right at the alternator.

This black wire RUNS STRAIGHT THRU THE BULKHEAD.  It DOES NOT plug in.

The factory had a connector there.  Someone has modified the wiring and run it straight through.  This isn't a bad thing.  The bulkhead can be a cause of a lot of electrical headaches.  You can just leave it like that...one less thing to worry about.  It will make disconnecting the bulkhead harder though.


It looks like you have a handle on it. 

[nsmall]

@Burdar

Thanks Burdar AKA Darren.  You and others are so helpful.

"If I were you, I'd invest the $40+/- in a factory style battery cable.  It will clean up the wiring a little and get rid of that extra connection on the battery.  You don't have to do that now though.  Take the car apart, get it painted and put the new cable on during re-assembly."

Where do I buy the factory style battery cables?  Roseville?

"The factory negative cable also used two wires.  A large wire ran to the front of the drivers side head.  A small wire ran to the radiator support.  That was it...until sometime in 73 when they added one from the back of the passengers side head to the firewall.  I think it would be a good idea to add this extra ground.  You don't need anything special though.  Just remove that alternator to starter wire, shorten it and use it for your ground wire."

where is the passenger side of the firewall?  As in, where exactly would I ground my alt wire once I remove it from the starter?  Thanks

"As for the black wire that runs from the alternator to the bulkhead, it also DOES NOT have a fusible link

Correct, the factory never had a fusible link on that wire.  If there was a problem with that wire, the fusible link between the starter relay and bulkhead was designed to burn.  Now that you have a jumper wire from the alt to the relay, you need to protect that wire.  I'd add a fusible link at the end of that black wire right at the alternator."

What size is this black wire so I know what size of fuse to buy?

Last question, Is the starter relay to bulkhead red wire a 10 gauge wire from the factory?  I may just buy a new one to match the 10 gauge alt to starter relay wire I am going to install as I am not certain that red wire from the stater relay to bulkhead is stock.

THANKS Burdar and others

[screamindriver]

As a general rule the fusible link is 2 sizes smaller than the primary wire...It's tough to guess what gauge you have there but it appears to be bigger than the factory gauge...It looks to be 10 gauge{so you'd want a14 gauge fusible link}...The factory did'nt use that heavy gauge originally {I'm thinking 12 gauge ? which would get you a 16 gauge fusible link}

[Burdar]

Where do I buy the factory style battery cables?  Roseville?

Yes, you can buy it there.  They are always a good choice, however you can find it at your local Chrysler dealer as well.  Then you wouldn't have to pay for shipping.  It might take a few days for them to get it in though.

where is the passenger side of the firewall?  As in, where exactly would I ground my alt wire once I remove it from the starter?  Thanks

I used to have a picture of the late 73-74 ground location on the firewall.  I can't find it now.  I believe it was between the voltage regulator and the ballast.  It's just another small hole in the firewall.  You don't have to connect it there though.  If you want it hidden, you can run it down the back side of the engine and bolt it to the inside of the frame rail under the car.  It's up to you.

What size is this black wire so I know what size of fuse to buy?

I'm not sure about that one.