Relocating Battery To The Trunk In My Challenger Convertible

[Daveh]

Hey guys,

After spending all of this money on painting the Challenger I don't want to mess up the engine bay with the battery.  So I decided to relocate it to the trunk.  I've purchased everything to do it below.  If I'm missing something please tell me.

I figured I would go through the floorboard near the emergency brake with grommet and route the positive battery cable where the existing wires route on the floor back to the trunk. 

Here are my questions:

1. what do I do with the current smaller red wire that's attached to the current positive battery cable?
2. How does everything go in line in the truck? I'm not going to run the battery disconnect through the tail panel. I'm going to wire it near the battery in the truck.  Pictures work best for me if anyone has them.

Summit Racing Remote Mount Starter Solenoids SUM-G1750
Moroso battery disconnect #74101
1/0 welding cable
all the accessories I need to install everything.
Hydraulic Crimper for the connections
Tarlor aluminum box

Thanks
Dave

[Brads70]

With your car being a valuable convertible I might lean towards keeping it stock. But mine being a lowly /6 I used one of these to run the heavy welding cable from the trunk to the  engine bay. I then cut off the stock battery cable and jointed it to this distribution block. Then the smaller red battery cable went to the starter relay . I also used a sealed Moroso battery box .
I found this common electrical box , mounted a main cut off switch and also mounted it in the trunk next to the battery. Good/nice to have for theft deterrent and when working on electrical on the car.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Painless-Wiring-80114-Power-Distribution-Block/183424725368?hash=item2ab4f73178:g:gFsAAOSwEBRblVxS:rk:3:pf:0&vxp=mtr

[dodj]

A schematic of how you plan on wiring it?
IMO,
Don't really need the battery disconnect, Unless you're at the track, but if you like....

Mount the starter solenoid in the trunk. Avoids having a 12vdc +ve wire live to the front of the car all the time.
Use an AGM battery...reduces the chances of gassing off in the trunk.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

If protecting the paint is the only reason you are considering a relocation, I'd just run a sealed AGM battery and not worry about it again.

If you're chasing aesthetics or weight distribution, then that is a different story.

[Daveh]

It's a little bit of everything looks and weight.  I figured someone else has done this and was hoping to see installation pictures.  Yes an AGM battery is a must. 

[303 Mopar]

I had to move my battery with the 392 Hemi air filter. We mounted it on the passenger side, grounded it in the trunk and ran the positive cable right to the starter solenoid.

[dodj]

I had to move my battery with the 392 Hemi air filter. We mounted it on the passenger side, grounded it in the trunk and ran the positive cable right to the starter solenoid.

That works, but my concern about that is you have a large, unfused positive cable running almost the length of the car. Unless maybe you added a breaker or fuse in the trunk? Would have to be a big one for the starter though.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I had to move my battery with the 392 Hemi air filter. We mounted it on the passenger side, grounded it in the trunk and ran the positive cable right to the starter solenoid.

That works, but my concern about that is you have a large, unfused positive cable running almost the length of the car. Unless maybe you added a breaker or fuse in the trunk? Would have to be a big one for the starter though.

I'd have to brush up on the exact size, but I have about 300a worth of fuse on my main battery wire from the trunk to starter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dodj]

Picture of the battery now at the passenger side in trunk, starter relay mounted on trunk torsion bar support. The MSD ignition is mounted in the trunk behind the battery as well.
Picture of engine bay without battery or relay.

[Topcat]

If protecting the paint is the only reason you are considering a relocation, I'd just run a sealed AGM battery and not worry about it again.

If you're chasing aesthetics or weight distribution, then that is a different story.

AGM's are very light now.
No gassing
No leaking
Zero maintenance

The reproduction battery works good.
Recommend a CTEK charger for it. 

[Brads70]

If protecting the paint is the only reason you are considering a relocation, I'd just run a sealed AGM battery and not worry about it again.

If you're chasing aesthetics or weight distribution, then that is a different story.

AGM's are very light now.
No gassing
No leaking
Zero maintenance

The reproduction battery works good.
Recommend a CTEK charger for it.

I bought a Northstar AGM  and the battery tender JR wouldn't keep it charged. I bought this one and it came back up. Any idea why? I put the Battery tender on another battery and it seems to work ok. 
https://www.batterychargers.com/en/products/battery-chargers/sc1362-85a-6v12v-fully-automatic-battery-chargerengine-starter

[Daveh]

I bought the CTEC charger that will charge everything and it works great. 

[Topcat]

I had the option for Battery Tender when I sold Batteries.
As well as CTEK.

After all I was taught, I will only use a CTEK for AGM's from now on.

It all comes down to algorithms and  how it learns the battery.

[dodj]

No gassing



The reproduction battery works good.
Recommend a CTEK charger for it.

I thought agm's still gas off on overcharge.....which the un-modified e-body electrical system is prone to do.

[71-440]

I have a sealed battery in my trunk. Not an AGM. I also have a vent tube in the battery case vented to outside through the trunk floor.