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runs only in crank position

Started by 70Barracuda, May 11, 2019, 06:32:34 AM

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70Barracuda

Been running the car at hone a bit no issues.  Got it out yesterday, headed down driveway, car quits, will start in crank position then dies going back to the run position. 

Disconnected the battery, towed the car around the block, connected the battery, started right up and ran?

Ideas?
Sniper, 493/383, Firmfeel, RMS Streetlynx, Speedhut. Dana, 4 gear.

Cuda Cody

Has anything been recently changed or replaced?  When it dies does the car still have power to things like the lights and radio?

70Barracuda

Good Morning Cody,
I put all new speedhut gauges in but that is very simple wiring.  am running a 1 wire alt , I did run a helper wire from the alt to the Bat post, did connect the Amp wires together.

There's little factory left in the ignition system,  Running a ready to run distributor, but these things have been in place and working well.
Sniper, 493/383, Firmfeel, RMS Streetlynx, Speedhut. Dana, 4 gear.


ply64post

Possible ballast resistor coil cracked? ( on the run side)

1 Wild R/T

What ignition system are you running?  If it has a ballast bypass the ballast just as a test....  In case you don't know what the ballst is, the arrow is pointing at it..

Just connect the two wires together... You can't leave it that way but it will tell you whether the ballast is your issue...

70Barracuda

Using a ready to run dist.  No ballast.  The strange thing is it quit, would start in crank then die going to run.  I disconnected the battery, connected it back, it ran like it should.  Think I'll go see what it does now.
Sniper, 493/383, Firmfeel, RMS Streetlynx, Speedhut. Dana, 4 gear.

Burdar

START and RUN use two different wires to power the ignition system.  The "brown" wire coming out of the ignition switch gets power in "start".  The "blue" wire coming out of the ignition switch gets power in "run".  It sounds like you have a problem with the blue wire.  I had the same issue and it turned out to be a bad connection at the ignition switch connector at the base of the steering column.  I could wiggle the connector and the engine would stumble.  If you moved it enough, the engine would die.

Get out your test light and start checking every connection on the blue "run" wire.  Start at the base of the steering column and test both sides of the connector.  Then move up to the bulkhead connector and check both sides of that. 


70Barracuda

Sniper, 493/383, Firmfeel, RMS Streetlynx, Speedhut. Dana, 4 gear.