Whoa, this can't be good

[gumby]

Somebody, ANYBODY correct me if I am wrong....

The ignition system is ONLY going to pull as much spark as it needs to fire Nothing more, nothing less.

Therefore, All BS stuff like Accel super coils, and MSD and equivalent are basically worthless junk - unless you might be racing high end
stuff.

ALL of the crap on the market, is hogwash. You are wasting your money. For 99.9% of ALL cars, NONE of this high dollar stuff is worth it.
I.E. - Having a "super coil" is NOT going to give you ANY more spark than what the ignition system requires for it to fire.

Path of least resistance and such. Basic electricity. YOU ARE FOOLING YOURSELF IF YOU THINK OTHERWISE! If you want more resistance, increase your spark plug terminal gap.
Unless you have herculon high compression ratios or some other system, you are NOT going to see an increase in anything, except your wallet being emptied.

What do the Auto manufactures use for their own high performance cars? THAT"S what I would use. EVERYTHING ELSE IS BS designed to take your money away.

PROVE ME WRONG! ANYONE?

I would LOVE to be proved wrong.

[1 Wild R/T]

Don't know why I'm gonna waste my time but here ya go, here's an example of how a hotter spark helps.... Back around 79-80 a buddy had (still has) a T/A 4 spd... It had a pretty nasty cam in it & leaving from a dead stop it had very little torque so he had to slip the clutch quite a bit... I had a MSD 6 that I'd bought for a car & the car had gotten stolen before I installed it....  I offered to let him use the MSD to see if it would help clean up the way the cam made his car run...  Only change was adding the MSD, once installed he could put away from a dead stop without adding any rpm, just let the clutch out & give it some gas as it started to roll.....  It added a tremendous amount of torque because the mixture that the stock ignition couldn't fire the MSD had no issue with....

[gumby]

You shouldn't have wasted your time. That is all hear-say. NO PROOF! Like a butt in the seats of the pants-o-meter! lol. ANYONE can take out an old wallored out worn out dist, and use ANY other system, and get the same results.

I'm not talking that. And you are WAY to intelligent to know that. You know what I'm talking about. PROOF! Not seat of the pants, not, well my buddy said, not, well we did this, BS!
YOU know what I'm talking about. The MSD in NO WAY, NO HOW fired any hotter than the factory set up. The coil used what electricity it needed to overcome the spark gap and fired.
That point is called saturation. It's the same for any coil. The laws of physics. It reaches a certain point, and the electricity searches for a path to ground. Look it up. If the gap is the same,
then the electricity to jump that gap will be the same. IT DOESN"T CHANGE! It's the SAME! No coil will make that different. The electrical requirements are the SAME!
Simple as that.

Spark is spark, ignition is ignition. Fire is fire. The only way you can get a higher spark, maybe, is by delaying (increasing the gap, to allow more build up) the inevitable jump in the gap.
Not likely. The coil is only going to build up to a certain point before it overcomes the gap and releases. it's laws of electricity. No more, no less. Easiest path to ground.


PROOF! Not conjecture.

If it makes you feel better for forking over the dough for an MSD system, far be it from me to tell you how wrong you are. But you are.
Simple facts.

[DodgeGuy]

^^ You might be correct with all of that, I'm the last person qualified to disagree with you.

I just wanted to add that I purchased the car with all of the MSD aftermarket stuff already on it, and with all the money I've spent already on redoing a majority of the wiring, I'm not going to spend more money at this time to go back to all stock components when what it has on it seems to be working fine (and I'll add that this car MOVES, lol).


Anyways, my ultimate goal here is to install a nicely done 440 over the next 5 years or so.

[73440]

I drove a 65 Fury III 318 for a few years in the 90's and it started burning oil and fouling the Champion plugs in 500 miles badly, started using Splitfire plugs which allowed it to run thousands of miles before needing to clean or replace.
I assumed they must be burning hotter to burn the oil rather than letting it settle on the plug.

[gumby]

Hey everybody, sorry I came off as a total jerk. This is what the instructors taught us years ago at a tech school (WYO TECH). Trying to save us money by NOT
buying ACCEL Super Coils, and such, lol.

Electricity is supply and demand. You can't get more out of it than what you put into it. It will always seek the easiest path to ground.
It will only take "that much" electricity to jump the gap. No more, no less. You cannot "super charge" it. Once it reaches a certain level, it will overcome
resistance and jump the gap.

In a former job, at an electrical utility, We had to test the lineman's bucket trucks.  We tested both the hydraulic oil, and the fiberglass booms themselves.
We took a sample of the oil, and placed it in a cup for the machine. We would crank up the electricity until a spark occured. That would tells us if the oil
was contaminated by water (humidity) or impurities. If the spark occured at too low of a set point, then the system needed to be flushed and refilled.

Same with the fiberglass booms. They would either pass, or need to be refinished to assure that they passed a "die-electric" test. On particularly HUMID night,
a fellow mechanic walked by and pointed up at the booms on a truck we were testing. The shock knocked him on his butt. He was probably around 10 foot away
from it. Electricity found the easiest path to ground. He was lucky, and was not injured. It never hit anyone just 5-8 foot away. but we weren't pointing at it.
Sometimes, the internal hoses were so dirty that they needed replaced.

Electricity is ONLY going to build up to the point needed to overcome resistance. No more, no less.

It made sense to me back then, and it makes sense to me now. That's all. Sorry if I offended anyone. I know I sounded like an A$$. I apologize.

[gumby]

re-doing 30 or 40 year old wiring will allow the full 12 volts to apply. Likely the old wiring was suspect. Corroded. I pulled the glove box out of my 67 Coronet. All the
insulation was gone. Just bare wires everywhere.  SCARY! it was...

[Cudakiller70]

Hey OP your post reminded me of this guys "testing" of lubricants. It looked like WD 40 specialist might be an alternate. I really don't know just thought you might be interested in these results to help with your rust.
http://www.dayattherange.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/boards2_zps3731a808.jpg

[DodgeGuy]

Hey OP your post reminded me of this guys "testing" of lubricants. It looked like WD 40 specialist might be an alternate. I really don't know just thought you might be interested in these results to help with your rust.
http://www.dayattherange.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/boards2_zps3731a808.jpg

Wow, that is interesting, thanks for sharing!!  FWIW, I took it up to my local garage and had the shop owner clean it up.  It came out looking almost brand new.  He sprayed something on it (but I can't remember right now what it was).  In any event, when I reinstalled it last night, the car started right up and seemed to run great.  I haven't road tested it yet because I have some wiring to "button up", but it sure did idle nicely, and I revved it multiple times and it didn't spit, miss, or anything.

Having said that, I know those rust issues can come back after researching the "MSD distributor rusting issue" online, so if it does, I might have to try one of those lubricants.

[RUNCHARGER]

Just keep your eye on it. If you have to remove it once a year and clean it that wouldn't be too much of a hardship.