440 starting issue

[cuda hunter]

72 440 in a 77 ramcharger. Automatic.
Column keyed ignition.

I crank and crank and it won't start until I release the key.   

I had this problem once before, years ago and can't remember how I fixed this. 

Would I just replace the ignition switch? 

Is this caused by the switch not allowing the run circuit to be in the on position when the key is turned all the way forward? 

[71383bee]

Sounds like you are not getting power on the IGN2 circuit.  IGN1 is fed upon release of the key.  IGN2 is fed on start and bypasses the ballast and goes to the positive side of the coil.  Easy things to check are connections first, then bulkhead, then the steering column harness connects, and switch last.  I had a similar issue on my super bee that turned out to be a loose wire in the column bulkhead connection.  Took me YEARS to figure this out and thought it was just about everything else. 

Hope that helps!

[dodj]

Sounds like a dual ballast resistor?

[cuda hunter]

help me out.  Dual ballast resistor?



Figures, I am driving it today and a few times it starts just fine while I'm turning the key instead of when I'm letting off. 

[70 Top Banana]

Agree, I would check the connections first, the ballast resistor second before moving into the column. The first two are very easy. My two cents worth

[340Challman]

I hope you get lucky and it's one of the easy things, but I'm leaning to the ignition switch myself.

[moreparts]

I gotta go with ignition switch too.  Same problem many years ago and I'm pretty sure that was the answer.

Good luck and let us know.

[71383bee]

The ign2 circuit bypasses the ballast resistor. It sends 12v straight to the coil while starting.  It typically is a brown wire.  If it is catching when the key is released the ign1 circuit and ballast resistor are likely ok.


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[cuda hunter]

Slow process, but I will get to it.  One check at a time. 

Seems I remember the ignition switch doing this like 20 years ago and I changed it and it fixed the problem.
But that was starting on return every single time.  over and over again.  This is slightly different as it is inconsistent with exception to when it is cold and it is the first start, always on the return.

Thanks so far for the suggestions guys. 

[dodj]

help me out.  Dual ballast resistor?

It 'controls' voltage levels to the coil and ECU. It's that whitish ceramic block on your firewall. I agree that your problem seems more like an ignition sw, but the BR when it fails can give you inconsistent problems. I have seen peculiar ign problems solved with a new BR that didn't seem like a BR issue. So now whenever I'm troubleshooting a Mopar ignition, I first check wire connections and BR condition before I go anywhere else (BH, coil, ECU, Column, BR). The BR is easy to take off and visually check the backside for breaking apart. With a meter you should get close to 5 ohms on one side and 1.2 ohms on the other. Because the BR is a high power resistor, it gets hot. Because of this the connectors are susceptible to expansion/contraction, getting corroded, getting loose. Definitely worth a quick check before pulling the column apart IMO.

[MKA]

@cuda hunter

I found this video was helpful for understanding some basics on the ign1 and Ign2 and basic troubleshooting.

https://youtu.be/oTSxN1Kwfuk