Cold-Case radiator installation

[CudaMoparRay]

Cold-Case Mopar Radiator installation

Better late than never!
My super positive experience, installing a Cold-Case aluminum radiator in my 1971 Barracuda pictures included.
Was having what I thought were radiator overheating problems with my aluminum Champion 4 row radiator that came with the car originally at purchase as fairly new.
After much ado I found out that the engine may have a blown head gasket so the radiator was not the factor for the extreme overheating issues.
I posted on my Mopar forums the problems I was having with another radiator company I tried and their lack of customer service.
That is when a representative from Cold-Case Radiators graciously reached out to me with an offer to try their radiator and that they would work with me and the Mopar community to address any fitment issues so that they would be able to sell us a product that fit right the first time hereafter.
Long story short I bought the radiator and installed. It was way easier than I thought. When I opened the well packaged box I was impressed on how well it looked already polished. They can be painted black for those that like or prefer the stock look. Once painted would be hard to tell it was not an original old Mopar style radiator. Also came with a fancy aluminum billet radiator cap.
The radiator pretty much fit as is but the holes at one end of the radiator support were not in the correct location.  I had to drill 2 new holes.
Here is the BIG difference between the prior radiator company and Cold-Case, Cold-Case offered from the beginning to replace it with a correct fitting one if it did not fit right. The other more expensive radiator manufacturer said to just stop complaining about the little things, drill holes and live with it. 
Cold-Case just asked me to give them the correct measurements in order to do so. So I will replace it with the "new" one when it comes in and report on that installation in the future.
I will insert pictures in order from the way it was packaged, opening, and preparation to final installation in installments. If any questions, I can answer them before proceeding to the next steps, in the pictures below them.
Technical data:
With Champion 4 row temperatures would reach up to 230 if ran more than a half hour in idle and about from 190 to 200 on the highway. Once off the freeway and onto the street would quickly overheat to around 220.
Under the same conditions the Cold-Case 2 row temperatures would only be 210 at idle and down to 180 to 190 on highway. Once off the freeway and onto the street would heat up to around 200.
Even with the overheating engine problem quite a big difference in temperature range.
I know I have to fix the underlying engine problem but at least in my mind it shows that even under those conditions, at least in my case the new radiator lessens the overheating problem.
The way it was when I bought it. Except with new chrome top radiator hose and removed chrome 5" radiator shroud.

[CudaMoparRay]

The Cold-Case unpacking

[Cuda Cody]

Sweet!!!   

[61K T/A]

That rad looks heavy duty. I see you dont have the fan clutch installed. Is it a benefit to cool better not using one and installing the spacer instead or does the clutch not fit? My goal is to keep the  engine bay looking stock with modifications. I will either be buying a new rad  or have mine cored.

[Bullitt-]

Good looking product...

Their looking for small block 26" guinea pigs if someone want's to take advantage
http://coldcaseradiators.com/dodge/66-74-a-b-e-body-ac-aluminum-performance-radiator-at-17-x26/#tab-3

[CudaMoparRay]

That rad looks heavy duty. I see you dont have the fan clutch installed. Is it a benefit to cool better not using one and installing the spacer instead or does the clutch not fit? My goal is to keep the  engine bay looking stock with modifications. I will either be buying a new rad  or have mine cored.

Further down this installation thread you will see that I did finally remove the flex fan and accompanying spacer and installed a clutch fan assembly.
My opinion is that a fan clutch, usually more expensive is better, some have no problem otherwise. Installing a fan shield should go without question although there some have no problems also. I am in the process of getting a fan shield for it also. I will post that installation on here as well.

[CudaMoparRay]

Some easy prep installing automatic trans cooler lines. Also some installed with aforementioned hole placement shown.

I need to clarify that the transmission lines on my particular car had been cut that way because instead of an OEM 727 automatic transmission I have an upgraded A518 modern overdrive transmission.

So that is not an issue with the Cold-Case radiator but with my customized transmission.

[CudaMoparRay]

While at it I decided to put a replacement OEM wiper liquid reservoir and use it for its intended purpose and not like some who I have seen use it for a radiator overflow tank instead.
My understanding is that not until '73 or '74 did they even have an overflow tank it just ran from the radiator nipple to the street from '70 to '72.
Below is my setup for both. Mopar put it between the battery and the engine which I did not like.
Notice it also lets me see the anti-freeze level at a glance from the front radiator support hole.

[CudaMoparRay]

Installation of Mopar 7 blade clutch fan and clutch fan assembly. Seems to be the perfect distance so just awaiting to install OEM fan shroud.
I used Grade 8 bolts for added piece of mind.

[CudaMoparRay]

In answer to a members question that may be useful for others.
I used this overflow coolant recovery kit here: https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/coolant-return-kit/interdynamics-2-5-qt-coolant-return-kit-for-larger-vehicles/360490_0_0
Very inexpensive and does the job. Thought about chrome/metal ones but felt the plastic was more OEM looking.
I installed it on the front and on top of the battery tray which had just enough room for both. Just screwed the metal basket hangers to two existing nearby screws already on the radiator support frame.
And Yes, the system is a Closed system that returns any anti-freeze back to the radiator not to the ground.
The original set up was on the passenger side so when changed to driver side the nipple on radiator neck faced the wrong way and I had to use  longer overflow tubing maybe that threw you off.

[61K T/A]

I like the idea of the coolant bottle but once a engine finds it coolant level a over flow bottle isn't necessary. When I replaced my rad (Glen-ray) I topped it off. The level dropped about 1.5 inches and thats where it stayed.

[CudaMoparRay]

I like the idea of the coolant bottle but once a engine finds it coolant level a over flow bottle isn't necessary. When I replaced my rad (Glen-ray) I topped it off. The level dropped about 1.5 inches and thats where it stayed.

Interesting, I wonder if that is a pre 1973 situation on e-bodies?
I believe ,and someone correct me, that radiator overflow bottles were installed from 1973 to 1974 on our cars and have continued to be used on all cars since by manufacturers.
Copied some of the other advantages of a closed system that haven't been mentioned.
Being able to see the water level at a glance in the recovery bottle and not having to remove a hot cap is certainly a plus.
Along with easy fill ups and automatic purging all the air out of the lines and water passages.
Also, preventing anti-freeze spilling if and when something does overheat or go wrong.

[CudaMoparRay]

Continuing the saga of installing an OEM fan shroud from Classic Industries to a Cold-Case radiator with holes not made for a stock one.
Will be making either some custom brackets or drilling holes in it to match the existing holes in the radiator brackets.
At least was able to repair the leaking automatic transmission line to the radiator cooler.
Stay tuned.

[CudaMoparRay]

In the prior pictures I was using the brackets as they came straight from a Wink Mirror installation kit.
Finally decided that customizing them would give a better fit.
Pictures should give a good indication of what was done.
Bent the brackets and bought some 3.5" bolts to attach to them after attaching to the radiator bracket on frame.
Works great, very solid and looks more OEM

[Tantster]

I ran into some issues as well with the factory shroud on the 22". The upper neck is not in factory position and had to downsize fan size and fabricate new shroud. Turned out decent and so far so good.