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Difficulty of resolving this transmission leak?

Started by kawahonda, July 12, 2018, 08:57:35 PM

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kawahonda

So if I drop the pan, than any old seal driver that I have laying around should work? If so, just need to grab the seal then...would not be a bad idea to replace the pan gasket I assume.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

1 Wild R/T

Knock the seal out with a screwdriver from the bottom... Use a bolt with a couple fender washers to pull the new seal in....

Pan gasket, filter & seal... With your this far drain the convertor so it gets a full batch of new fluid....  Depending on convertor it'll take 10-12 quarts...

Get the reusable pan gasket... Don't waste time or money on anything less...
727/518 uses   2464324AC
904/500 uses   4295875AC

RUNCHARGER

I've done it that way several times. Next time I'd like to try the special tool to pull it out though. I'm too old to pull all those pan bolts. Mind you your car is new to you so a fluid change is in order anyway.
Sheldon


1 Wild R/T

The advantage to using the tool is you don't lose much fluid not even a pint... I've done the job with the tool in less than twenty minutes...

kawahonda

What do you guys think about this band adjustment procedure?

http://www.mopar1.us/band.html

More firm/responsive downshifting is something I would like to have.


1970 Dodge Challenger A66

303 Mopar

Quote from: kawahonda on July 19, 2018, 09:41:43 AM
What do you guys think about this band adjustment procedure?

http://www.mopar1.us/band.html

More firm/responsive downshifting is something I would like to have.

Does it downshift ok now?  This may lead to you having a really "hard" downshift.  If its not broke, don't fix it.

kawahonda

"OK" is subjective I guess.

Real answer is I need more time with it.

But I expect downshifts to be firm, consistent, and immediate. I want to say that sometimes when I floor it, depending on my speed (lower speeds in general) sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

If the engine is cruising in second or third gear at 2800 RPM, and I floor it, I expect it to downshift every single damn time and right away. Sometimes it feels like it doesn't do it. There's been instances where I stuff the pedal in the floor and have to wait a little bit for it to do it. Sometimes it doesn't do it. And this only happens sometimes.

Again, I need more time with it. But band adjustment should be an obvious thing to do going through the effort of pulling the pan.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


kawahonda

Alright, drove it around and really focused on the 727 today.

There are two things that I don't like. Please inform me on how these can be remedied.

1) The 727 does not downshift into first unless car is traveling at 20MPH or less. Very consistent in this behavior, so I assume this is correct behavior. Not sure why, but why can't it be 25 or 30 MPH? I like being able to downshift and floor it (for fun). That means if I'm traveling 21-25MPH, then it's going to kick into 2nd gear, which is far from the car's peak RPM. Maybe I'm wrong here, but the 20 MPH number really conservative.

2) The 1 second or so delay of downshifting after putting the pedal to the metal. I'd like a bit more immediacy.

Everything else seems effective and fine and what you'd expect from a 727. Shifts are smooth and consistent. "hard shifts" are available in slap-mode.

What things does a Trans-go shift kit solve/improve?

What things does adjusting the bands solve/improve?

What things does adjusting the linkages solve/improve?

Apologize for the many questions, but if the tranny guy is going to drop the pan and remove the valve body in order to get the shifter shaft seal, I want to come prepared with a list of "asks" so that the tranny can be all set to go!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

chargerdon

Hi...on my 74 challenger with 360 engine, it has a replaced 904 torqueflite in it from a 68 plymouth.   With this valve body it has no part-throttle-kickdown.  I had to rebuild due to severly worn rear clutches and broken o rings on the rear clutch pack.  (Rebuilt it myself...my first time)  When i rebuilt i followed chryslers directions for adjusting the bands.

I also put in a shift kit.   Tranny works great, my only complaint is that floored the upshift to second occurs around only 4,000 RPM, and the same for the 2-3 shift.   Tho i can hold it in gear with the gearshift.

Regarding downshifting...   If i floor it at anything less than 3500 RPM, it will downshift crisp and quick...  from both 3rd to 2nd, and 2nd to 1'st.   Example, doing 25-30 mph in high, flooring it will immediately downshift to first, crisp but not too hard, or if doing more than 30-35 mph it will downshift crisp and quick to 2'nd.   

I think the auto upshift to 2nd and 3rd occurring at too low an rpm, is probably the tension springs adjustment on the  valve body...and you have to drop pan to adjust that...   not worth it..as i can hold it in gear longer with the gear shift lever.   

Only advice i can give you is make sure the throttle rod is adjusted properly..   Sounds to me like it is close, but, maybe needs a tweek.


kawahonda

Thanks Don.

What's causing the car to only downshift to first if traveling 20MPH or less? I'm assuming this is known and expected behavior. Is this adjustable?
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

1 Wild R/T

I'm assuming your trans is 70 or earlier?  In 71 they started using a part throttle downshift....  If you want it to act 100% the same every downshift you need to get a modern electronically controlled trans....

Old hydraulically controlled transmissions work great & with tweaks can do many things well... But for people use to modern cars an old Torqueflite is just never gonna be what you expect.....

Kinda like trying to tune a carburetor to match fuel injection..... Back in the 80's & 90's I snuggled with allot of customers with two new cars & the old pickup.....  I rebuilt the carb so now I'm married to the damn thing....   

(customer) I start it up & it runs great, I drop it in gear & it gets me down to the corner... From there if I take a left it's great, runs down the road for three miles at 55 mph & never misses a beat....   But if I turn right by the time I hit the next corner it dies every time......   

(me) yeah, it's carbureted, when you turn left your rolling at 55 mph when it goes lean as the choke comes off.... You drive through it never noticing it.... When you turn right you have three stop signs in a row right as it's lean....

(customer)  Neither of our new cars do that.....

(me) your new cars are both fuel injected....

(customer)  I thought you were supposed to be good with cars...

(me) :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:


kawahonda

Thanks Wild. I'm just wondering if the 20MPH limit is tweakable in first gear.

Sounds like some good adjustment, maintenance, and a mild shift kit can wake up/improve other things.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

1 Wild R/T

Quote from: kawahonda on July 30, 2018, 02:35:41 PM
Thanks Wild. I'm just wondering if the 20MPH limit is tweakable in first gear.

Sounds like some good adjustment, maintenance, and a mild shift kit can wake up/improve other things.

Yup, the part throttle kickdown (PTK) will really improve your trans..... That & a TF2 will likely make you happy....  The (PTK) is an add on to the valve body, It hasn't been sold new in years but used ones pop up on Ebay....

https://www.ebay.com/i/222939170733?chn=ps

kawahonda

Thanks Wild! I suppose that would be a good thing for me to bring to the mopar tranny shop. I'm assuming it's just like it sounds...it requires "partial" gas pedal press instead of pedal to the metal?

btw, lug nuts will arrive to your place on Thursday!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

1 Wild R/T