Disaster...360 Engine blew a connecting rod

[chargerdon]

She is alive !!!!!!   

First start today... it fired right up.   Its amazing, during break-in (using Driven brand break-in oil with inner valve springs removed), the valves were noisy for the first 30-90 seconds and then they quieted down.   Likewise there was a fair amount of gray smoke coming out of the exhausts...but within about 5 -7 mins it quit smoking...i guess the rings were getting seated.  im sure some of it was just condensation also. 

With engine running at about 2200 rpm, set the timing with vacuum advance connected to about 30-35 degrees before TDC and let her run for 20 mins...with a fan blowing at radiator.   It was around 88 degrees here with 90 percent humidity so the water temp did climb to last quarter of the gauge, so resorted to spraying water from garden hose thru radiator a couple of times to complete the lunati prescribed cam breakin procedure of about 30 mins running between 2000-3500 rpm. 

Then i shut her down and let her cool off for about 20 mins.   Then started back up and set the timing by ear with vacuum advance plugged...  SHE LOVES advance... there was almost no amount i could give it that didn't cause the rpm's to rise.   SO..until its fully broken in, i set the static at around 15 BTDC...then when i plugged in the vacuum advance (full port side), RPM's rose even more and the timing with vacuum was reading around 30...   

Still lots to do...  I have to finish putting my dash back together, as im running a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the "open" spot in the standard dash, and the line had pulled out when we removed the engine..   Its hooked back up and working..  but dash needs finished...so no test run yet.   Also, i have to put back on the power steering belt as i had left it off for initial startup..  so sometime either monday-tuesday-or wed will give initial run.

I am just a little concerned about oil pressure...  on Initial cold start up, pressure went to around 55-60 psi, but while it was being broken in at 2000 rpm and it reached full temp that pressure dropped to 40 psi...   and when i finally let it go down to idle, engine was hot, and oil pressure was around 15...   I'm hoping that break-in oil is thinner than the normal oil...   still...  i would have liked to see 50 psi when doing breakin at 2200 rpm...even hot..  Using Driven brand break in oil 10-40....   Oh, im using standard Melling oil pump not High Volume or high pressure.   

PS... 1 wild RT...you ok out there in modesto, ca...saw on the news all of those earthquakes !!   

[1 Wild R/T]

All is good here.. And it sounds like all is good there as well!! Awesome!!! 

Yeah, we're 300+ miles away so barely felt the 7.1 & didn't feel any of the smaller stuff... Thanks for the concern though...  We have other members who are much closer... But far as I've heard everyone is fine...

[chargerdon]

thank God..

[Dakota]

Glad you got past that huge milestone of "first fire" - congrats!

[jimynick]

I don't mean to be Donnie Downer here, but... 15psi oil pressure in a brand new built engine, is in my opinion, too low. My poor old 74 360 with 80k miles on it has better pressure than that and I'd've expected to see yours being 30-40psi at idle, hot. I'm sure others will chime in with their opinions.  Just my 

[1 Wild R/T]

I agree but there's a number of things to consider..

First I'd also want to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.. Next just to be safe I'd pull the filter & cut it open to inspect... 

But having the stroker kit it's likely to have full groove main bearings which in my experience hurts oil pressure especially at idle...

Also what are the bearing clearances?  Building a stroker, particularly for a guy who lost his last engine on the way home from a racetrack there's a very good chance the machinist set clearances on the loose side....

[Chryco Psycho]

15 PSI at idle is OK as long as it rises immediately with rpm but I would like to see more  , I always use the Melling High Pressure pumps though .
I am Happy you got it running again 

[chargerdon]

!% PSI at idle is OK as long as it rises immediately with rpm , I always use the Melling High Pressure pumps though .
I am Happy you got it running again 

yes, the pressure rises as it comes off idle.   

Regarding Standard, High Pressure, High volume pumps.   Couple of years ago i called Melling  to get a real understanding of the three.   Their tech told me that Standard and High Pressure pumps are identical except for the spring which controls the max pressure relief valve.   In other words standard is set for max of 60-65 PSI even when cold.   When hot and at idle that spring has ZERO effect.   

Now, High Volume on the other hand will create more oil flow...hence when hot more pressure..but..the down side of high volume is that at high rpm's..with a standard i.e 5 qt with filter oil pan it can actually pump the sump dry...so don't use with standard oil pan if you run it to high rpm's like at a track.   Melling tech also told me that with a good engine High Volume isn't necessary and robs about an extra 5 hp to run it, and puts more strain on the rod that drives the pump.   

So, since this is an all new parts engine, i chose standard melling pump.   After engine is broken in and on regular oil (think ill go to 20W-40 weight), if when hot still down in the 10-15 psi area when idling at 800 rpm, then ill switch to a High Volume pump.   Yuk, here is where a big block is better..easier to change the pump..

Haven't put in the inner springs yet, so had to take it easy, but, took it for a MILD short spin around the block...It has some serious Kahoonies...  Inner spring will be put back in over the next few days..and ill have a chat with my machinist. 

[RUNCHARGER]

You've got a good understanding of the pump for sure. I bet you have fully grooved main bearings though. Keep your eye on it and also check with a mechanical gauge so you know for sure.

[Chryco Psycho]

You should have 10 Psi / every 1000 rpm approx so as long as the pressure rises instantly & you have 50+ at 6000 you will be ok

[chargerdon]

Talked with my machinist...he said yes they are high performance stroker kit main bearings..and ...lol...thats how mopars are...  he said don't get excited as long as your still running the break in oil. When engine is fully hot, and so long as engine doesn't overheat (it gets hot when sitting just idling in my NC 94 Degree temps) it will read between 15-20 psi at 750 rpm idle in drive.   At 2,000 rpm i have around 35 psi, and at 3,000 around 45 psi...   

I plan on changing oil and filter at around 100 miles...  machinist suggested putting in 20W-50 weight oil and that i would notice a significant increase in oil pressure.   I already bought 6 qts of Driven conventional 10W-40 weight with zddp ...and i'm going to use it.  If still low like this, then, ill add in a qt of Lucas Oil stabilizer.  After that ill buy the 20W-50w oil for the future.   

PS, the inner valve springs are in, and driving the car mildly (keeping rpms below 4,000) she pulls strong..noticeable stronger than the 360....  cant wait to get the oil changed and give her a full throttle run..   

[chargerdon]

Regarding WOT shift points... I read articles on A&A transmission governor modifications, and several said changing the governor helped a little but they also with A&A guide also changed the spring in the valve body to get to where they wanted.   

Then i found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avgCFdGKjtw  at about the 1 min mark the guy shows turning the screw on the pressure setting between 4-5 turns counterclockwise will increase the line pressure to give firmer shifts, and will raise the shift point.   When i take my pan off to replace leaky gasket im going to give mine 4 turns and see what happens.   I installed a drain plug on my pan, so that it wont be too messy if i have to take it back off and undo the adjustment.   Hoping to get the RPM's between 5,000-5400 WOT on the 1-2 shift. 

[RUNCHARGER]

Hmm: I haven't run 20-50 for decades. If it built for 20-50 it should work okay I guess. Let us know how it works out. The governor mod is what is used to tweak shift points.

[Chryco Psycho]

I like your choice of 10-40w with Zddp better , That is what I would be using !

[1 Wild R/T]

I think if you'd asked him what oil to use in your new engine without asking about a low oil pressure concern first he would have said 10w40 or even 10w30 but since he knew you were concerned about low oil pressure he hedged his bets by bumping it to 20w50...

10 PSI per 1000 rpm is the standard rule so as long as the needle continues to climb when the rpms climb your fine...  If there were something like a missing gallery plug the pressure would be zero at idle, Rods & mains with a little extra clearance acts like what you described...

I too would go with 10w40