Driveline removal question

[70RTSE383]

I am removing my 383 and 727 trans from my 70'Challenger in the next few days. Will the trans fluid pour out of the rear when the driveshaft is removed on level ground? Also will the engine and trans come out of the top of the car as one piece? What is the best method for draining engine and trans fluids without making a huge mess, this includes the torque converter. The front sheet metal, grill etc has/will be removed.

[Rich G.]

A little bit of trans fluid might drip out when you pull the driveshaft. If you pull the engine and trans together from the top all the trans fluid will dump all over the floor if you don't put a plug or yoke in the tail shaft. Nothing will leak on the converter unless you pull it off the trans. Engine oil won't leak but I'd drain it. There probably isn't drain plug on the trans so that is a messy job if you drop the pan to drain it.

[70RTSE383]

Thanks Rich. I ordered a trans tail shaft plug set but wont know till I pull the driveshaft out if it will fit. Has been a long time since I pulled a used engine and auto trans out.
Does the converter have a drain plug in it?

[headejm]

Yes, the converter has a drain plug but you won't need to drain the converter to remove the drivetrain. If you are worried about your trans fluid leaking out of the tail shaft ( which it will), just drain the fluid out of the trans first. Most people just duct tape a strong plastic bag around the tail shaft first.

[B5fourspeed]

I use a freezer bag and a rubber band or a zip tie to hold it on the tail shaft end.

[Chryco Psycho]

I drop everything out of the bottom , far easier & faster .

[anlauto]

  out the bottom is nice 

[Shane Kelley]

You can buy a cheap transmission tail shaft plug kit from the parts store. That will cover the trans fluid mess. The biggest mess I encounter when pulling engine is the coolant. Unless you can drain the block from the plugs on the side of the block and even then your going have coolant running out. So prepare for that. If your pulling the assembly together I would recommend removing the front lower crank pulleys. That will give you a little more clearance with the upper radiator support when it's coming out. 

As far as these guys saying drop it out the bottom. Doing a restoration I agree that it's the only way to go. But on a complete car that's just getting the engine and trans freshened up in my opinion it's a lot of extra work. Especially if you don't have the equipment to raise the car high enough. Not to mention you  can't roll the car around. I have everything to do it that way but I can tell you when my new bullet is ready for the Cuda the old is coming out the top and new going in the same way.

[70RTSE383]

I know many do this but I pulling it out in a day or 2 and don't have anything to drop the k frame and suspension onto.

[70RTSE383]

Thanks for all the great advice. I forgot that I would not be able to move the car with the k member out. The car is getting a whole resto but needs to be able to roll to get it to the paint shop. I will try the plugs I ordered or will use a bag. Will also pull the crank pulley off.
Also pulling dash but need to keep steering (ps) steerable. Maybe prop the steering shaft up with something?

[Shane Kelley]

Thanks for all the great advice. I forgot that I would not be able to move the car with the k member out. The car is getting a whole resto but needs to be able to roll to get it to the paint shop. I will try the plugs I ordered or will use a bag. Will also pull the crank pulley off.
Also pulling dash but need to keep steering (ps) steerable. Maybe prop the steering shaft up with something?

The bracket behind the dash can stay in place to support the column.

[MoparLeo]

383 and 727 together is a long assembly, and most accessories will need to be removed before you attempt to lift it out.
Very little needs to be removed dropping it out the bottom.
This will also give you a chance to detail all the suspension components while you are at it.
The car can be at the body shop and the rest can stay with you to work on at the same time.
If you go out and back in through the top you can count on bending/scratching items. Especially if you are going to the trouble of restoring your car.
There are tools designed for just such instances. Dropping the entire k-frame assembly is easier than forcing it out the top and you don't even have to remove your hood.
There are simple slings to attach to your cherry picker to raise the front of the car off of the k-frame.
There are dollies to attach to the frame stubs with caster wheels to move the car around.
How do you think the body/ restoration shops do it ?
You can buy them or inexpensively make them your self. Plenty of sources on line and videos available.
http://store.uscartool.com/cool-restoration-tools.html

[70RTSE383]

Thanks Shane. That will help a lot.
Leo I know that people do have various dollies, bolt on wheels rotisseries etc. that work for them. I don't have time to build or buy this kind of equipment for this one car. I need to get the car from my garage onto a flatbed and to the shop as a roller. The entire front end had been blasted rebuilt and somewhat detailed by the previous owner so I am not worried about that. When it comes back I will do some front end detailing and consider putting the car on my lift to reassemble the K frame, engine suspension from the bottom. I still would need to build something to hold this assembly and move it around under the car. It is not so simple (as I'm sure you know) if you don't have this equipment and are going to use it once. If you or someone has an idea how to quickly and cheaply build a k frame and eng/trans dolly just to reassemble it I would love to hear from you.

[Chryco Psycho]

I used snowmobile castor plates to set a snowmoblile on & roll it around , maybe $50 for the 3 plates & they worked great .

[7212Mopar]

I build one with 2x4s and 2x6s screwed to two HF furniture dollies, $11 each. Couple of 3/4" threaded rods, bolts and washers to index and let the k frame sit on it. I used it on a 340 and 904 bolted. I think I have pictures in my restoration thread. Not sure if others done the same with big block engines.